Drink Up!
Wines from Spain are one of the best values in the wine industry. While the quality continues to improve, the prices remain reasonable. Spain is most known for red wines, such as Tempranillo from La Rioja and Garnacha from Catalonia. However, there are great white wines produced in the Galicia and Basque Country wine regions of Northern Spain.
In Spain, Denominaciones de Origen (D.O.), translated to Designation of Origin, are wine-growing regions classified as unique for their characteristics and quality. Galicia is a D.O. located in the far northwestern region of the Iberian Peninsula and is Spain’s most northern region, sitting directly above Portugal, bordered by the Atlantic Ocean to the west and north. The Galicia region is famous for the medieval pilgrimage trail: the Camino de Santiago, or the “Way of St. James.”
The maritime climate of the Galicia region plays a major role in the varietals of grapes that do well there. Often called “the Green Corner,” the region’s proximity to the Atlantic Ocean invites plenty of sun, cool breezes, high humidity, and fairly high amounts of annual rainfall. Winemaking began when Galicia and most of Europe were part of the Roman Empire. After the empire fell, winemaking was taken over by the Cistercian monks. Winemakers there still credit the monks for the quality of the vineyards and their grapevines. By the 14th century, the quality of Galicia’s wine was well-known, to the point where vine clippings were shared with countries throughout Europe. Wine production continued to thrive until the 19th century, when the nation fell into a serious depression. A significant number of winemakers emigrated to Portugal and South America to salvage their livelihoods, and many vineyards were abandoned. It wasn’t until 1986 and an influx of funding from the European Union that Galicia’s wine industry was restarted.
The overwhelming majority of grapes grown in the Galicia wine region are white, with Albariño accounting for more than 50% of all grapes grown in the D.O. of Galicia. Albariño has a very thick skin, which serves it well in the humid environment of Rías Baixas, the subregion most known for growing this white grape. The thick skin helps the grape avoid mold and mildew rot that can be damaging to thinner-skinned varietals. The cool ocean breezes and the mild temperatures of the high-altitude vineyards in Rías Baixas prevent the grapes from overripening and result in the wine’s crisp, bright acidity. An example of a Rías Baixas Albariño is the Zarate Albariño from the Val do Salnes appellation. The wine is fresh with flavors dominated by tree fruit, such as white peaches, pears, slightly underripe green apple, and a touch of lime zest. There is a notable minerality to this wine, dominated by light sea mist, jasmine, honey, and ginger.
Two more excellent demonstrations of Albariño from Rías Baixas are La Cana Albariño and Burgans Albariño. La Cana’s vineyard is located along the Miño, the river running through Galicia. Both of these wines are a balance of fruit and minerality with a rich and silky texture on the palate. Albariño is a wonderful pairing with fish, chicken, fresh vegetables, and sushi meals.
The second most-planted grape in the Galicia region is Godello, pronounced “go-day-yo.” The subregion of Valdeorras is most recognized for Godello. The Romans gave the area its name, which means “Valley of Gold.” Unlike Rías Baixas, Valdeorras is about 100 miles inland, with its vineyards located in the mountains. The subregion has one of the lowest average daily temperatures and the lowest annual rainfall of any region in Spain. The soil is granite and slate, perfect for growing zesty white varietals. I highly recommend the Ladera Sagrada-Castelo do Papa Godello. Papa Godello is a perfect representation of the terroir, and the winery selects the best Godello grapes to produce the wine. The resulting wine is well-balanced, with notes of melon, peach, and a touch of lemon. There is a persistent minerality that demonstrates the stony soil in which these grapes have grown. It goes well with grilled fish or poultry but is pretty versatile for many dishes.
In Northern Spain, near the city of Bilbao, is the region known as the Basque Country. The Basque people are indigenous to the western Pyrenees Mountain region on the border of Spain and France. The Basque language is totally unique. Linguists claim this language has no known relatives remaining on Earth. Cultural anthropologists believe this is one of the oldest cultures of people remaining on our planet. They are believed to be direct descendants of Neolithic Europeans. There are three main Denominación de Origen (D.O.) appellations along the Atlantic coast: Bizkaiko Txakolina, Arabako Txakolina, and Getariako Txakolina (the oldest and most famous).
The wines of the Basque Country are known as Txakoli or Txakolina, pronounced “chock-oh-LEE-nah.” The grapes used to produce wines are Hondarrabi Zuri, used for white wines, and Hondarrabi Beltza, used for rosé and, infrequently, red wines. Over 90% of the wines produced in this region are white. A classic example is the Antxiola Getariako Txakolina. Don’t allow the unique sounds of the Basque language to prevent you from trying this wine. These pale straw-colored wines have a slight effervescence, a fresh, herbaceous aroma, and the flavors of green apple, light citrus, distinctive minerality and a light salinity. This wine pairs perfectly with oysters, shellfish, white fish, fried tapas, and grilled vegetables.
I hope you enjoyed this venture to the cooler side of Spain and will give the white wines of the country a try. Reach out at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store if you have any questions or comments. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
