Drink Up!
You are likely aware that the Golden State is popular for Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, both of which have found a home in California despite originating in France. However, it wasn’t until the 1970s that they became so popular, in large part due to what has become known as “the Judgement of Paris,” a 1976 wine event where Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay from California were tasted side by side in a blind tasting with the same varietals from France. The unexpected occurred: The California wines were evaluated by French wine experts as superior to the French wines! I’ll delve further into the event in May when we commemorate its 50th anniversary. For this week, I’d like to focus on two less famous California varietals that I believe the state grows better than anywhere else: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah.
Zinfandel, the third most harvested grape in California, is a wine shrouded in misconceptions. Zinfandel grapes are in the Vinifera species, meaning they are in the family of European grapevines. However, the exact origin is unknown. In 1967, a professor at U.C. Davis in California noticed similarities between Zinfandel and Primitivo, a red grape grown in the Puglia region of Italy. More than 30 years later, DNA testing has proven that Zinfandel and Primitivo are the same grape. But this only partially solved the mystery. Italy has long contended that Primitivo is not a native Italian varietal, but rather was imported. We may never know the full origin story.
One misconception is that Zinfandel is a sweet wine, a confusion caused primarily by the sweet pink wine known as White Zinfandel. Incidentally, White Zinfandel was an accident at Sutter Home Winery in California more than 50 years ago when winemaker Bob Trinchero was attempting to make Zinfandel. The batch he was producing suffered from stuck fermentation, meaning the fermentation process spontaneously stopped while the alcohol level was relatively low and the residual sugar was more than double what it should have been. The color was pink rather than red because the tannins in the skins had not fully transferred to the wine. Rosé wines were not common in the U.S. in the mid 1970s, so a pink wine was referred to as a “blush.” Not wanting to waste the batch, Trinchero bottled the wine and marketed it as White Zinfandel. It was an unexpected hit! Sweeter wines were popular in America at the time, and, according to a San Francisco Chronicle report in 2003, White Zinfandel was America’s most popular varietal from the early 1980s until the late ‘90s. Though the wine is still made today, sales have dropped considerably as wine drinkers’ palates have switched to preferring drier wines. The victim of White Zinfandel’s popularity was Zinfandel. Many wine drinkers were unaware that a dry, red wine called Zinfandel even existed. I became aware of Zinfandel in the late 1990s, but had to refer to it as “Red Zinfandel” to be sure wine stores gave me the right bottle.
I love a good Zinfandel. This wine is bold and intense with the fruit flavors of ripe blackberry and strawberry with notes of tobacco leaf, smoke and spices. It is a very food-friendly wine that is full-bodied with medium acidity. A very reasonably priced and excellent one is OZV Old Vine Zinfandel. This wine is approachable and smooth with a rich mouthfeel and notes of vanilla bean and cinnamon. However, my favorite Zins are made by Turley Wine Cellars. Larry Turley is the owner and proprietor of this relatively small but very impressive winery. The Turley Zinfandels are the pinnacle of how great a wine this varietal is. Treat yourself and try one. They pair well with barbecued meats and poultry as well as spicy dishes.
The second California wine to celebrate is Petit Sirah, not to be confused with Syrah. Though Shiraz (from Australia) and Syrah are the same, Petit Sirah is its own varietal. Petit Sirah is a hybrid wine that was originally found in France and given the name “Durif.” Durif’s parent vines were Syrah and a local French grape called Peloursin, which is now virtually extinct. Durif never gained popularity in France and was taken to California in the 1880s and then to Australia in the early twentieth century. It was in California where the grape struck gold. From Prohibition until the early 1960s, Petit Sirah, as a single varietal wine or blended with Zinfandel, was one of California’s most popular wines. In fact, it wasn’t until the late ‘60s and ‘70s that Cabernet Sauvignon replaced Petit Sirah as the state’s most popular red wine.
Petit Sirah is a dry, bold, full-bodied, high-tannin red wine. The fruit flavors are ripe red plums and blueberries with notes of black pepper, chocolate, and black tea. This wine pairs well with almost anything you would drink Cabernet Sauvignon with, from steak to beef stroganoff to grilled chicken. Old Soul makes a very nice Petit Sirah at a very reasonable price. My favorite is the J. Lohr Tower Road Paso Robles Petit Sirah. I am happy to share that J. Lohr is committed to sustainable farming. This wine is a treat that I hope you will try. Winemaker Brenden Wood describes it as “delightful red and blue fruit on the palate, leading to a finish of exquisite length, concentration, and well-balanced structure.” I couldn’t agree more.
What could be better than combining these two great varietals into one great wine? Caymus has done just that with the Caymus-Suisun The Walking Fool. Caymus Vineyards is unquestionably among the most revered wineries in California. Founded in 1971 by Lorna and Charles Wagner Sr., the winery is still 100% family-owned and operated by Charlie Wagner (Charles Jr.). The family’s newest venture is the Caymus-Suisun Winery in the Suisun Valley. The Walking Fool is produced by Charlie’s wife, Jenny, and is named after Jenny’s great-great-grandfather, Johannes Glos, who came to Napa Valley in the 1880s. Glos often traveled by foot, thus earning his affectionate nickname: the walking fool. This is a vibrant blend of Petit Sirah, or as Caymus calls it, “Grand Durif,” and Zinfandel. On the nose and the palate, this wine is a gem with the flavors of ripe raspberries and tart cranberries with a savory touch of espresso. In my opinion, it is a perfect blend of California’s best grapes.
I invite you to stop in and discuss these and other wines. As always, feel free to contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
