Drink Up!
Last week’s article featured Italy’s most famous red grape: Sangiovese from Tuscany. The wines of the northern regions of Italy are among the best medium-bodied reds found anywhere in the world. In this article, I’ll discuss the Piedmont (or Piemonte, in Italian) and Valpolicella regions and the historic, outstanding wines produced there.
The Piemonte region is in the foothills of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy, near the borders of Switzerland and France. Though much of Italy has a warm Mediterranean climate, this region is notably cooler, with a Continental climate similar to Burgundy, France. Vineyards in the region are commonly planted on the slopes of hills at elevations of 500-1200 feet. Almost 90% of winemaking occurs in the southernmost portion of the region, near the towns of Alba, Asti, and Alessandria. Winemaking in Piemonte is centuries old and dates to the Roman Empire.
The dominant grape of the Piedmont is Nebbiolo, which derives its name from a notable weather feature of the region. Nebbiolo is derived from “nebbia,” meaning fog. Although the Alps to the north shield the region from rain, the fog created by cool air to the north and much warmer air to the south is common. Fog may not be enjoyable to us, but it is excellent for growing Nebbiolo!
The Piedmont appellation most known for Nebbiolo is Langhe, located in the far southern section of the region. Langhe’s unique location makes for very cold and snowy winters, but very warm summers, allowing for a long growing season. An excellent example of the wine made from this grape is the Schiavenza Serralunga d’Alba Langhe Nebbiolo. This Nebbiolo wine features fruit notes of cherry, plum, and strawberry with earthy tones of leather, licorice, and herbs. Although Nebbiolo wines are high in tannins, they are also high in acidity, creating a very smooth and balanced wine that pairs well with many foods, including mushroom risotto, braised red meat, lamb, duck, and hard cheeses.
The most famous Nebbiolo-based wine, often called “the king of wines and the wine of kings,” is Barolo. The Nebbiolo grapes used in making Barolo wine must be from the 11 specified villages within the Langhe appellation of the Piedmont. Barolo grapes are harvested late in the season, which enhances the tannic structure, the color, and the richness of the wine. Additionally, the Barolo D.O.C. regulatory authority requires that the wine be aged for a minimum of 38 months, with 18 of those months in oak. These outstanding wines feature the aroma and flavor of strawberries, dark cherries, dried flowers, mint and leather. Although some can be a bit pricey, the Fratelli Revello Barolo is a great example that will not break the bank.
Barbaresco is another appellation that produces a wine that, in typical Old-World fashion, bears the name of the subregion. This wine is also made from Nebbiolo grapes, with differences due to terroir. The soil in Barbaresco has higher nutritional content, which produces a grape/wine with more fruit-forward aromatics and taste and less pronounced tannins. The lighter tannins and fruitier palate make Barbaresco wines very friendly with diverse foods, including lamb, duck, chicken, pork, salmon, tuna, and vegetables. A great, affordable option is the Cantine Povero Batù Barbaresco. This wine has an elegant profile with aromas of cherries and sweet spices and a delightful balance of fruit and savory earthiness. The tannins are light on the palate but provide a strong foundation.
Piedmont is sometimes called the land of the three “B”s. We already discussed Barolo and Barbaresco. The third is Barbera. Unlike the first two, Barbera is a grape, not an appellation, that grows in numerous locations, most of which are in the Piedmont region. The wines made from Barbera are lighter-bodied with less tannin and a fairly high acidity. If you like Pinot Noir, you will very likely enjoy Barbera. Two famous Piemonte locations where this wine is produced are around the towns of Alba and Asti. I would recommend the Mauro Molino-Barbera D’Alba or the Roberto Ferraris-Barbera d’Asti. The Barbera D’Alba is darker and fuller-bodied; the Barbera D’Asti is more fruit-forward but still very dry. Both are reasonably priced and pair well with tomato-based pasta meals, smoked meats, pizza, risotto, and anything with mushrooms.
Another wine from the Langhe appellation of the Piedmont is Dolcetto. In Italian wine-speak, Dolcetto means “little sweet one,” but don’t be fooled; this is a dry wine. Unlike the Nebbiolo wines above, the acidity of Dolcetto is significantly lower, and the tannins are very smooth. The color is dark purple, and the flavor profile is dominated by dark plum and blackberries with an almond note on the finish. A wonderful example is the Anna Maria Abbona Langhe Dolcetto. It pairs perfectly with pasta dishes with red sauce, pizza, and charcuterie. If you haven’t had a Dolcetto before, you won’t regret it.
In the northeastern section of Italy is the wine region called Veneto. The most famous wine from this region is Prosecco, but if you are seeking a great red wine, the Valpolicella is a subregion of the Veneto to consider. These wines are medium to full-bodied, dry red wines that are typically made from a blend of Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara, Veronese, and/or Corvinone grapes grown in the appellation. There are many reasonably priced and delicious examples, including Giuliano Rosati-Valpolicella or the Allegrini-Valpolicella. They are rich tannic wines with aromas and flavors of tart cherry, chocolate, and baking spices, with notes of pepper, almonds, and leather.
The most famous wine of this region is Amarone, made utilizing a unique process called appassimento. After harvesting, the grapes are dried in the open air for a season before pressing and being made into wine. The Cielo Centenero Amarone is an excellent example.
Or, if you are interested in a wine from this region that utilizes the same grapes and is also full-bodied, try the Santi Solane Valpolicella Ripasso. The Ripasso method adds the skins and juice of Amarone wine to the classic Valpolicella wine, giving it a richer and more complex profile. Valpolicella Ripasso is frequently referred to as Baby Amarone.
If you enjoy Italian wines and would like to taste and learn more, I invite you to join me for my three-week “Wine Foundations: Italy” class, starting on Tuesday, April 28. Details may be found on the Passion Vines website. As always, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store if you have any questions or comments. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
