Drink Up!
The Loire Valley is arguably the most diverse wine region in France, known for its many chateaus, orchards, gardens, and vineyards. This week, I will feature some of the amazing white wines of the Loire Valley, including some less-recognized wines you may be interested in exploring.
The Loire River is the longest river in France at 634 miles, starting near Ardeche in the mountains of central France, traveling north and west to Nantes, before emptying into the Atlantic Ocean. The fertile soils of this region have been farmed for more than 6,000 years, earning the Loire Valley the title of the “Garden of France.” Vineyards were introduced during the Roman Empire. After their fall, the Huns had a short stint of rule until King Clovis I, the first King of France, reconquered the region in the year 506. Christianity returned and, thanks to local bishops St. Gatian and St. Martin of Tours, vineyards flourished.
The town of Amboise is in the center of the Loire Valley. The ancient name of this town was Ambacia, meaning “between two waters” because the town is located at a point where the river splits into two around the Île d’Or (the Golden Island). Not far from Amboise is the appellation of Vouvray, Loire Valley’s Chenin Blanc region. The terroir of this region is unique, as it is located on a plateau high above the river. This provides the region with a relatively warm maritime influence with breezes moving through the valley from the Atlantic Ocean. Additionally, the limestone just under the clay soil, called “tuffeau,” creates the perfect combination of drainage and water retention that protects the vines from both drought and floods.
Vouvray’s Chenin Blanc white wines are incredibly food-friendly and pair perfectly with seafood, poultry, or pork. They are light-to-medium-bodied with high acidity and tasting notes of pear, honeysuckle, ginger, and green apple. My favorite is the Vigneau-Chevreau Cuvée Silex. Silex is the type of soil present at the vineyard and is rich in flint, which results in outstanding minerality in the wine. Brothers Christophe and Stephane Vigneau also produce a dry sparkling wine from Chenin Blanc. The Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Brut is a wonderful sparkling example of this wine region. The wine is very dry and features the fruit flavors of apple and white peach with the wonderful addition of brioche and almonds. You may also be interested in knowing that the wines at Vigneau-Chevreau are organic and biodynamically farmed.
Sancerre is a region that has become so famous that the wine produced there is better known by the name of the region rather than the grape varietal. Customers looking for a Sancerre may not realize they are requesting a Sauvignon Blanc. Sauvignon Blanc accounts for approximately 81% of all the grapes grown there. Sancerre AOC (Appellation d’origine contrôlée) is located in Centre-Val de Loire (the Central Loire Valley). This region is comprised of the area immediately surrounding the town, plus 14 nearby villages. It is the terroir, specifically the soil, of this region that makes the Sauvignon Blanc of Sancerre so outstanding. The calcareous and siliceous soils are what give the region’s wines such wonderful minerality. The resulting wine is a perfect balance of fruit and minerality with a crisp, clean, fresh taste. Sancerre Sauvignon Blanc wines are very dry and typically extremely low in sugar. Many wine enthusiasts consider Sancerre the world’s most perfect demonstration of Sauvignon Blanc wine, but I leave that for you to decide.
The Mellot family has been making wine in Sancerre for over 500 years. As young men, brothers Alphonse and Joseph Mellot worked together at Domaine La Moussiere Alphonse Mellot Wines. In 1969, Joseph broke off and established Domaine Joseph Mellot. Try the Alphonse Mellot Sancerre La Moussiere Sauvignon Blanc to experience exactly what makes Sancerre famous. The Domaine Henri Bourgeois Sancerre Blanc is another outstanding example of this elegant wine, as is the Karine Lauverjat – Sancerre Perle Blanche.
Before we leave the Centre-Val de Loire, there are several other appellations worth mentioning. Menetou-Salon is located very near Sancerre and also produces Sauvignon Blanc. The soil here is called Kimmeridgian and is similar to that found in Burgundy. This soil was deposited here after the Jurassic period. The wine is equally dry, crisp, and fruity but with a touch of spice and mint. Try the Domaine Durand Menetou-Salon Blanc.
Also, near Sancerre is Pouilly-Fume, where Sauvignon Blanc is again the primary output, but with a different terroir once more. The soil is diverse with many of the types already discussed, but with a dominant vein of silex. While walking through a vineyard in this region, a tour guide suggested we click two pieces of silex rock together, which resulted in a smell similar to gunpowder. In the U.S., we call this rock “flint.” It adds slightly smoky notes to the white wines produced there. We met with Pauline Pabiot at Domaine Roger Pabiot in Pouilly-Fume during this tour. Pauline is the fifth generation to be the president and head winemaker of the family estate. Try the Pauline Pabiot Pouilly-Fumé Coteaux des Girarmes to better understand why Pouilly-Fume wines are becoming nearly as famous as Sancerre. Another outstanding Pouilly-Fume is La Moynerie by Michel Redde et Fils.
On the opposite end of the Loire Valley, near where the river empties into the Atlantic Ocean and near the city of Nantes, is the Muscadet AOC wine region and its primary appellation Muscadet Sevre-et-Maine. The wine produced there is known as Muscadet, but is made from a grape with an unusual name: Melon de Bourgogne. The wine is pumped into underground holding tanks for aging up to 14 months on the lees (sur lees). Lees are the dead yeast that fall to the bottom of the vat. Rather than pumping out the lees, the wine remains in contact throughout aging to enhance the flavor. Try the Chateau de Chasseloir Muscadet. It’s great with all seafood but is the ultimate “oyster wine.”
I hope you enjoyed our white wine tour of the Loire Valley. I absolutely love the wines of this region and hope that you are inspired to try them as well. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, “santé” and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
