Drink Up!
By David Setley
“Que Sera, Sera” (meaning “whatever will be, will be”) was a very popular song made famous by the late Doris Day in 1955. I remember my mother singing this to me as a child. I am loosely using a variation of the song’s title to introduce a few wine questions I frequently hear. Are Syrah wines and Shiraz wines the same thing? What about Petite Sirah? Well, the answer is yes, and no!
The exact origin of the Syrah grape and the wine produced from it is not known with certainty. Most believe that the grape was first planted by the Romans in the northern Rhone Valley of France, in a region known today as the Côte-Rôtie. Some believe it was brought to this region by the Greeks 500 years before the Romans arrived, as it was the Greeks who first cultivated wine in the Rhone Valley. Though its origins are foggy, it was in this region that this grape became famous. The Hermitage subregion of the Rhone Valley is arguably the best demonstration of Syrah at its finest. In fact, the only red grape allowed to be grown in the Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage Appellations d’Origine Contrôlée (AOCs) is Syrah.
So, what is Shiraz? Genetically speaking, it has been proven that Syrah and Shiraz are the same grape. What is different is that wine term that I use so often: terroir! Shiraz is the Australian interpretation and spelling of this grape. In 1788, the British established a penal colony in Australia with 1,000 inhabitants. Crops, including grapevines, were planted immediately to feed the inhabitants. The colony’s first governor, Arthur Phillip, is credited as the first to plant vines at his residence at Parramatta. Initial attempts at growing wine-worthy grapes were unsuccessful. In 1833, a Scotsman named James Busby, known as the “first British resident of New Zealand,” returned to his new home in the South Pacific from a trip to Europe. Busby stopped in Australia with hundreds of grapevine clippings from France, which included Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Malbec, Grenache and, you guessed it, Syrah. Of all the varietals planted in Australia, none adapted better to the soil and climate than Syrah. How it became known as Shiraz is not known, but it is not surprising. In Australia, a chicken is a “chook,” breakfast is a “brekky” and a mosquito is a “mozzie.” So, it became known as Shiraz, mate!
Moving on to Sirah, as in Petite Sirah. Is it also the same grape in another location with another spelling? No, in this case, Petite Sirah is a totally different grape varietal. It seems likely that Petite Sirah, or Durif, as it was known in the 1800s, had its roots in France. This grape never grew well in its homeland. However, in 1884, a vineyard owner named Charles McIver brought cuttings to his Mission San Jose in Alameda County. It took beautifully to its new home in Southern California. Although the popularity of California’s Petite Sirah wine peaked in the 1970s, in my humble opinion, it is one of two varietals California does better than anywhere else on earth. The other, I believe, is Zinfandel.
Last question: Are they all pretty much the same? Au contraire, mon ami! Terroir is everything! First, let me address Syrah vs. Shiraz. The wines produced from both of these grapes are full-bodied and have the fruit flavors of dark fruit, such as blackberries. But the Syrah versions, especially those from France, are classic Old-World wines with lower alcohol levels, less intensity of fruit flavor, more noticeable earthiness, and smoother tannic structure. The Shiraz from Australia are New-World wines. The alcohol levels tend to be higher, the boldness of the fruit flavors is more intense, there is less earthiness and the tannins are much tighter. Which is better? That is totally up to you to decide. Have your own taste test comparison by trying a French Syrah, such as Michel Chapoutier Bila-Haut-Côtes du Roussillon Villages Rouge 2021 or the Domaine Jaume-Côtes du Rhône 2020. In Old-World tradition, these are blended wines with Syrah sharing the marquee with Grenache, Mourvèdre or Carignan. Then try an Australian Shiraz like Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz or South Australia Koonunga Hill Shiraz. It is best to taste your choices side-by-side to notice firsthand how the two distinct terroirs are demonstrated in the same grape.
Petite Sirah stands alone. This is a New-World wine with bold fruit flavors of black raspberry and plum, notes of pepper, plenty of tannins and, oh, yes, relatively high alcohol levels. I am a big fan of this varietal. A few excellent examples include J. Lohr-Petite Sirah Tower Road from Paso Robles or Old Soul Petite Sirah from Lodi, California. If you are looking for your new favorite California red wine, start with one of these! A truly outstanding example of Petite Sirah blended with Zinfandel is the Caymus-Suisun The Walking Fool Red Blend. Suisun Valley in California is a relatively new appellation that is getting a lot of attention. Try this wine and see why.
The best way to enjoy this article is with a glass of one of these wines in your hand. As always, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store if you have any questions or comments. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
