Drink Up!
Thursday, Aug. 13, is International Prosecco Day, so I thought I would take the opportunity to salute the world’s most consumed sparkling wine. While wine production and sales are flat or slightly falling in many categories, sparkling wines, led by Prosecco, continue to rise. The United States is a major exporter, responsible for nearly one-quarter of all exports, growing in volume by more than 8%. So, how did Prosecco get its sparkle? Pour a glass, and let’s explore.
Prosecco is made from the Glera grape that grows in the Veneto region of Northeastern Italy. In fact, Glera is the second most widely grown grape in all of Italy. The earliest records of this grape were recorded by Pliny the Elder in his document “Naturalis Historia,” where he referred to the “Puccino,” a still wine identified by historians to have been made from what is now known as Glera. Pliny stated that this wine was favored by the Empress Livia, the first powerful Empress of Rome, wife of the Emperor Augustus, and mother of Emperor Tiberius. In 1593, an English traveler named Fynes Moryson first referred to the wine as “Prosecco,” in reference to the name of the nearby town. The name stuck and has been found in numerous writings over the ensuing centuries. An Italian poet named Aureliano Acanti even wrote in 1754 that he wanted to “sacrifice my (his) mouth for that apple-aromatic Prosecco.”
It wasn’t until 1876 that Prosecco was given its sparkle because of three oenologists: Antonio Carpenè Sr., Federico Martinotti, and Eugene Charmat. That same year, Carpenè established the Oenology School of Conegliano, Italy’s first school of viticulture in the heart of the Prosecco wine region. He is largely considered the father of Prosecco. Martinotti was initially recognized for the secondary fermentation method, which gives wine its effervescence. Charmat made significant improvements to the method, making it more economical and consistent, resulting in the process being more associated with his name. The primary difference between Charmat’s secondary fermentation method with Prosecco and the method used with Champagne is where it takes place. For Prosecco, secondary fermentation takes place in a sealed containment vat; in Champagne, it takes place in the bottle. This is the principal reason why Champagne is bubblier (6 to 7 bars of pressure) than Prosecco (1 to 4 bars of pressure). It is also why Prosecco is a fraction of the cost of Champagne.
Champagne is generally considered to be drier than Prosecco, due to a lower residual sugar. The average Brut Champagne sold in America has about 12 grams per liter of residual sugar, while Brut Prosecco has 12-17 grams per liter. The most significant reason for this is terroir. The Veneto region of Italy is far warmer than the Champagne region of France, resulting in those Italian grapes starting their journey into wine production at a slightly higher sugar level. Additionally, Champagne is traditionally aged longer, creating more dry flavors and less fruitiness. Nonetheless, both wines are available in varying levels of dryness from Extra Brut (the driest) to Brut to Demi-Sec (the sweetest).
Two very important things happened to the Prosecco wine region and its wine in 2009. First, the grape used for making Prosecco, Glera, got its name. Before then, it was referred to simply as the Prosecco grape. Second, the Italian DOC agency established Prosecco as a DOC-certified region. Prosecco wines can be produced anywhere in the larger Prosecco wine region and be classified as a DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) or DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) wine. However, the finest wines come from the appellations of Conegliano-Valdobbiandene, Asolo Prosecco, and Prosecco Trieste/Treviso.
Valdobbiadene, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is internationally famous for being the birthplace of Prosecco. Called the Crown Jewel of Prosecco, the wines from this area are considered the best example of this style of sparkling wine. To see for yourself, try Col Vetoraz Valdobbiadene Brut Coste di Levante. This wine is very dry and has a lovely effervescence. The flavors of white peach and pears are beautifully balanced with a crisp, chalky-mineral finish. This is my top pick for Prosecco Day.
From the Asolo Prosecco subregion, the Belle Casel Asolo Extra Brut Prosecco is a great choice. This is the driest style of Prosecco (only 4 grams per liter of residual sugar) and has the fresh aromas of golden apples and a touch of grapefruit. This is a well-balanced sparkling wine.
From Treviso, the La Gioiosa et Amorosa Prosecco and the Bortolomiol Miol Prosecco Treviso Brut are, in my opinion, the best Prosecco wines for the money. Both have fine and persistent “perlage” (bubbles), which are wonderful as an aperitif, or mixed into a spritz or cocktail. The flavor is classic golden apple with notes of mountain flowers and minerality. The vineyard planted Glera grapes in 1760 under Bortolomeo Bortolomiol. Current owner Giuliano Bortolomiol and his brothers launched the winery operations after service in World War II. Today the winery is run by Giuliano’s four daughters, whose concern and love for the environment led them to full organic certification for the vineyard and winery. The Bortolomiol daughters said, “Giuliano left us a great gift, the desire to look forwards always and imagine the future, among the traditions of our hills and with the constant desire to get better.” You can taste that dedication in their wines!
Another favorite of mine is Brilla! Prosecco. This wine is available in a traditional Prosecco and a Rosè Prosecco. Both are bright, crisp, and fresh, and come in a beautiful bottle that will look amazing on your table. In Italian, Brilla! loosely translates to “shine” or “sparkle”; I can promise you, this Prosecco will add sparkle to any occasion.
There are many Prosecco wines out there and, though you may already have your favorite, I hope you consider trying some of my suggestions above. You will not be disappointed!
As always, if you have questions or comments, contact me or stop by the Somers Point store. Happy International Prosecco Day, and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
