By David Setley
This time of year, I like to anticipate the coming months while looking back on the past twelve with gratitude. First, allow me to express my appreciation to you for reading these articles. Many have reached out or stopped in with kind remarks and thoughtful questions; I am truly humbled by your interest and support. Second, a big thank you to my wife and editor, Gwen. Trust me, without her, these articles would not read as well as they do. And third, I’d like to thank those in the wine world: those who enjoy wine, those who sell wine, and of course, those who make wine. I’ve had the pleasure of trying many new (or new to me) wines this year. As we close out 2023, I’d like to pay homage to what I consider the top 10. Drum roll, please!
- Brilla! Sparkling Wines (Italy)
In 2023, Brilla! introduced three sparkling wines from the Veneto region of Italy. The Extra Brut Prosecco is 100% Glera and is delicate, yet complex, with fruity notes of peach, green apple, and lilac. The Prosecco Rosé is Glera with a touch of Pinot Noir to add color and flavor. Both are fresh, light, and long-lasting. Brilla! also offers a Moscato, featuring floral and fruity aromatics with the light sweetness you expect. The packaging of these wines is just as sparkly as the bubbles within. Grab a bottle, or three!
- Lachargo Rioja Crianza 2019 (Spain)
Four generations have tended the Larchago vineyards since 1882, making Rioja wine. The Crianza 2019 is 100% Tempranillo with complex, rich, intense aromas of cherry, oak, and baking spices. It is a wonderfully food-friendly wine with smooth tannins and earthy tones.
- Castelo do Papa Godello 2021 (Spain)
You may be unfamiliar with this varietal, yet it is the most widely planted white wine grape in Valdeorras, Spain. I have affectionately referred to it as my new winter white. It has the body of Chardonnay but without the oak or buttery notes. The fruit notes of the Godello are pear, melon, and white peach with hints of earth and chalk. Give this wine a try for a fabulous alternative to Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Grigio.
- Dila-O Saperavi Dry Red 2021 (Georgia)
This is my first pick from a Middle Eastern country. Dila-O is 100% Saperavi grapes and is fermented in large clay jars, called qvevri, buried underground. For a natural, low-intervention, low-sulfite red wine, give this a try. It features a lovely dark color with flavors and aromas of plum and dark red fruits, plus a touch of black pepper and earthiness.
- Rosha Winery’s Timothée Rkatsiteli 2020 (Georgia)
Rkatsiteli (to pronounce, say “our cats on the telly”) is one of the most ancient white wines still produced. This Rkatsiteli is an amber-colored wine, is very dry, and has flavors of green apple, pear, and honey. It has a balanced acidity with a lasting palate. Perfect for wine enthusiasts!
- Stamnaki Assityko 2022 (Greece)
Assityko is Greece’s most planted white grape. The Stamnaki is an excellent, reasonably priced wine made from 100% Assityko organic grapes. It is produced with biodynamic and natural winemaking methods. This dry wine is light with a balanced flavor of citrus and minerality that perfectly complements seafood.
- Oppenauer Zweigelt 2021 (Austria)
From Niederosterreich, Austria comes this Zweigelt, a fresh and flavorful wine with ripe cherry and strawberry flavors. It offers subtle tannins, light acidity, and a long finish. If you enjoy Pinot Noir, Zweigelt is a great varietal to explore. It pairs well with pork, chicken, lamb, vegetables, or salmon, and is great with Asian or Indian cuisines.
- Clos de Tafall Priorat 2021 (Spain)
Priorat DOC is a small, historic appellation near Barcelona, Spain. The region is famous for the Garnacha grape and the outstanding (often blended) red wines it yields. The Clos de Tafall Priorat is 55% Garnacha, 35% Carignan, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is a Spanish classic featuring the aroma and flavors of cedar, spice, dark fruit, plum, and lavender. Full-bodied with well-structured tannins, it pairs perfectly with pasta or rice dishes (think paella), and savory meats.
- Fratelli Revello 2019 Barolo (Italy)
Barolo has been dubbed the “King of wines and the wine of Kings.” They are typically quite expensive, but the Fratelli Revello 2019 is an exception that is in a price range accessible to many. It is dry and full-bodied with intense flavor and rich tannins. The next time you plan an Italian meal, treat yourself to this wine.
And finally, my number one wine pick from 2023…
- Cartuxa Evora Tinto Colheita 2019 (Portugal)
I became interested in Portuguese wines early this year, having no idea it would lead me to my top pick. The Cartuxa is a delicious blend of 40% Aragonez, 30% Trincadeira, and 30% Alicante Bouschet. The star is the Alicante Bouschet, a rare varietal of grape whose flesh and juice are both red in color. The complex flavor and aroma of the wine feature blackberries, plums, vanilla, cocoa, leather, smoke, and earth. I am thrilled to have been a part of bringing this reasonably priced wine to Southern NJ. Do yourself a favor and get a bottle, ASAP.
So there you have it – my top wines of 2023. I hope you consider some of these as you complete your holiday shopping or fill your wine rack before the new year. You won’t be disappointed. As always, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com with questions or comments, or to share your top wine picks from the year. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
