Drink Up!
Fall means cooler weather, evenings on the porch, pumpkin-spiced lattes, and, for wine enthusiasts, the return of red wine after a summer of whites and rosés. Though it may feel a bit early for the more full-bodied wines that take the lead in winter, you may be craving the depth and complexity of red wine on a cool autumn evening. In my opinion, the wines of the northern regions of Italy are among the best medium-bodied reds. In this article, we will look at the Piedmont region of Italy and the wines of a fabulous winery that has been there for four generations: Canine Povero.
The Piemonte region is in the foothills of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy near the borders of Switzerland and France. Though much of Italy has a warm Mediterranean climate, this region is notably cooler, with a Continental climate similar to Burgundy, France. Vineyards in the region are commonly planted on the slopes of hills at elevations of 500-1200 feet. Almost 90% of winemaking occurs in the southernmost portion of the region, near the towns of Alba, Asti, and Alessandria. Winemaking in Piemonte is centuries old and dates to the Roman Empire.
An outstanding winery from the Piemonte region is Cantine Povero. The history of this family-owned winery dates to 1837 when Francesco Povero purchased his first vineyard in D’Asti. In 1948, Bortolomeo Povero, known to the family as Nonno (Grandpa) Tumlin, inherited the vineyard and expanded operations. It is Tumlin’s love for the region’s land that is credited as the reason the wines of Cantine Povero are still valued and enjoyed today. In 1964, Grandpa Tumlin’s sons Giovanni and Michelino produced the first bottles of wine with the Cantine Povero brand on the label. Throughout the coming decades, the vineyards and winery have been expanded and modernized, allowing the Povero brand to expand distribution beyond the Piedmont region. Tumlin’s love for the environment was manifested in 2010 when the winery installed a photovoltaic system capable of generating 353,000 kW of energy per year on the roof of the environmentally modernized winery and again in 2019 when Cantine Povero earned organic certification. Today, Nonno Tumlin’s grandchildren and great-grandchildren are leading vineyard and winery operations.
The dominant grape of the Piemonte, Nebbiolo, derives its name from a notable weather feature of the region. Nebbiolo is derived from “nebbia,” meaning fog. Although the Alps to the north shield the region from rain, the fog created by cool air to the north and much warmer air to the south is common. Fog may not be enjoyable to us, but it is certainly excellent for growing Nebbiolo! The Piedmont appellation most known for Nebbiolo is Langhe, located in the far southern section of the region. Langhe’s unique location makes for very cold and snowy winters, but very warm summers, allowing for a long growing season. Nebbiolo wines feature fruit notes of cherry, plum, and strawberry with earthy tones of leather, licorice, and herbs. Cantine Povero Langhe Nebbiolo is an affordable and perfect example of this varietal.
Barbaresco is another appellation that produces a wine that, in typical Old-World fashion, bears the name of the subregion. This wine is also made from Nebbiolo grapes; the difference between the two is attributed to terroir. The soil in Barbaresco has higher nutritional content, which produces a grape/wine with more fruit-forward aromatics and taste and less pronounced tannins, making it a perfect lighter-bodied red. The lighter tannins and fruitier palate make Barbaresco wines very friendly with diverse foods, including lamb, duck, chicken, pork, salmon, tuna, and vegetables. A great one to try is the award-winning Cantine Povero Batù Barbaresco. Aged in oak barrels for at least two years and six months in the bottle, this wine has an aromatic profile of cherries and sweet baking spices. It is elegant and classy, with a delightful balance of fruit and savory earthiness. The tannins are light on the palate but provide a strong foundation that gives the wine structure and support. If you haven’t tried Barbaresco wine, autumn is the time.
Barolo is known in Italy as the king of wines and the wine of kings due to its popularity with European royals in the 19th century. Once again, Barolo is 100% Nebbiolo grapes and is aged in oak barrels for a minimum of three years and an additional 6 to 12 months in the bottle. The Cantine Povero Priore Barolo is a classic DOCG-certified Barolo wine. The flavors are tart red cherry, raspberry, fresh violet, licorice, and subtle baking spices. This wine has well-structured, assertive tannins that are soft on the palate. Barolo wines can be quite expensive, but you will be very pleasantly surprised at how affordable Cantine Povero’s Priore Barolo is.
The Piemonte is sometimes called the land of the three Bs: Barolo, Barbaresco, and the third, Barbera. Unlike the first two, Barbera is a grape, not an appellation, that grows in numerous locations, most of which are in this region. The wines made from Barbera are lighter-bodied with less tannins and a slightly higher acidity. If you like Pinot Noir, you will likely enjoy Barbera. The Cantine Povero Contrada Maestra Barbera d’Asti is 100% Barbera and is aged in stainless steel rather than oak. This allows the wine to express its beautifully fresh, bright cherry notes. Don’t confuse fruit with sweet. This is a dry wine with a fruit-forward flavor profile.
I’d like to make one more stop in Monferrato, in the southeastern section of the Piemonte region. Dolcetto is one of the most misunderstood wine grapes in Italy. In Italian, “dolce” means sweet, which leads people to think this is a sweet wine. It is not! The Cantine Povero Capitano del Palio Monferrato Dolcetto is a dry red wine and is a wonderfully affordable example of this varietal. You will taste the fruit of black cherry, ripe plum, blackberry, blueberry, and dark raspberry with notes of black pepper, licorice and aromatic spices.
I hope you enjoyed this brief tour of the Piemonte region and the wonderful wines of Cantine Povero produced there that are perfect for your fall enjoyment. As always, contact me with any questions or stop in the store. Until next time, arrivederci and happy wining!
