Drink Up!
The autumnal equinox occurred on Sept. 22, bringing in fall in the Northern Hemisphere. With shorter days and cooler temperatures, many wine enthusiasts, including me, begin turning to red wines. However, for those not yet ready for full-bodied, heavier reds, allow me to introduce some lighter-tannin options that are perfect for fall evenings.
I am frequently asked about tannins, as they are one of the more complicated terms discussed. Tannins are what make red wine red. On the one hand, some folks associate tannins with issues, such as headaches, stomach discomfort, and even hot flashes. On the other hand, tannins are an important component in red wine, as well as a compound found in some foods. Tannins are a phenolic compound, which are among the most common chemicals found in many plants throughout the world. They are one of the most significant secondary metabolites (the most important components behind the health benefits and medicinal properties of plants) and are largely responsible for the antioxidant that’s attributed to many “superfoods.” Tannins are present in the skins of wine grapes, as well as most fruits, coffee, tea, legumes, nuts, chocolate, and some leafy, green vegetables.
After harvesting grapes, winemaking continues with what is commonly called the crushing of the grapes. I know we all just had an image of Lucille Ball stomping grapes in a gigantic barrel in Italy, right? In modern winemaking, Lucille stays on the sidelines as crushing is accomplished by a machine that very gently squeezes the grapes enough to separate the juice, referred to as “must” in wine-speak, from the skins, seeds, and stems, called “pomace.”
If a red wine is the winemaker’s objective, the “must” and the “pomace” remain in contact during maceration. Simply stated, maceration is a soaking process where the tannins are gradually transferred from the skins to the juice. The juice takes on the color, the flavor, and the antioxidant qualities discussed above. The duration of maceration depends on how tannic the winemaker wants the wine to be. For most reds, maceration can be as short as a week, and as long as a month or so. In general, the longer the skins have contact with the juice, the higher the concentration of tannins. The thickness of the grape skin can also play a part in this. It is all part of the science and artistry of winemaking.
In addition to color, tannins affect wine by adding to the flavor and mouthfeel of the wine. Tannins have a slightly bitter taste that, together with any remaining residual sugar, adds complexity. Bitterness may not sound appealing, but think of how tea, coffee, and dark chocolate have significant bitter components but are still considered delicious. It is the same for wines. Finally, tannins give wine an astringent effect, commonly referred to as dryness. Tannins bind proteins. The saliva on your tongue and in your mouth is full of proteins that the tannins bind, making your tongue, gums and palate feel dry.
Do tannins cause headaches, stomach distress and other issues? According to Harvard Health Publishing Online, maybe, for those who are particularly sensitive to tannins, but for the majority, no. The most likely suspect, for most, is alcohol itself. Alcohol can cause blood vessels to dilate, thus causing headaches and other temporary discomforts. If you experience negative issues when drinking red wine, try drinking a glass of water for each glass of wine to help alleviate the problem. Or, try a lighter tannin red wine!
Pinot Noir is produced around the world and is arguably the most famous of the lower-tannin red wines available. Burgundy, France is considered the birthplace of this varietal and produces many reasonably priced options. Try the Jessiaume Bourgogne Rouge or the Vincent Girardin Bourgogne St. Vincent. Both are outstanding 100% Pinot Noir wines from the homeland of Pinot Noir.
The Russian River Valley appellation of Sonoma, California, also produces great Pinot Noir. Try the Balletto Vineyards Pinot Noir or the Benoni Russian River Pinot Noir. The Willamette Valley of Oregon continues to gain more fame in this varietal. Try the Montinore Estate Pinot Noir 2020 or Bellande Pinot Noir.
How do they all differ? The Burgundy wines have more earthy notes of forest floor, mushroom and umami. Willamette Valley Pinot Noir tends to be brighter with more of the cranberry, raspberry, and ripe cherry, with more gentle notes of earthiness. The Russian River Pinot Noir is fuller-bodied with higher alcohol and notes of black cherry and warm baking spices. The choice is yours.
Northern Italian red wines are also a great lower-tannin option, particularly Barbera wines from the northwestern Piedmont region. Some even consider Barbera to be the Pinot Noir of Italy! Try the Mauro Molino-Barbera D’Alba 2022 or the Cantine Povero Barbera D’Asti. Both have a fresh, velvety palate with notes of cherry, plum, wild berries, and black raspberries. The Barbera D’Alba is slightly fuller-bodied, but both are reasonably priced and guaranteed to please. If you haven’t tried Barbera yet, fall is the perfect time.
Arguably the lowest-tannin red wine is Gamay, found in the Beaujolais and Loire Valley regions of France. Try the Coralie et Damien Delecheneau Ad Libitum from the Loire for an awesome Gamay wine blended with Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Alternatively, try the Arnaud Combier Fleuris from Beaujolais. Both are light and elegant with the perfect balance of fruit and earthiness.
My top pick for early autumn this year is made from Cinsault, a grape many are unfamiliar with. The Birichino Cinsault from the Bechtold Vineyard is an old-vine wine made from grapes planted in Lodi, California, in 1886, the year the Eiffel Tower was constructed in Paris. The flavor profile is reminiscent of the finest Cru Beaujolais wines of France. Fruit notes of wild strawberries, ripe cherries, and pomegranates are complemented by floral notes of rose petals and violets with just a touch of white pepper. It is a perfect fall wine.
I hope this discussion of lighter-tannin wines sparked some ideas for early autumn enjoyment. As always, if you have questions or comments, stop in the Somers Point store or contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, happy fall, y’all, and happy wining!
