By Scott Cronick
Some people just have unquestionable talent.
For my buddy Danny Eyer, he can shred the guitar.
In the case of my Tennessee Avenue Beer Hall partner Mark Callazzo, his gift is numbers and analysis.
For Georgeann Leaming … that woman can cook!
I have been lucky to experience Leaming’s food in a variety of styles and at a few different places where she served as executive chef, including the more casual Gordon Ramsay’s Pub & Grill at Caesars Atlantic City, the swank Gordon Ramsay Steak at Harrah’s Resort Atlantic City and, most recently, FoodieHall in Cherry Hill, where she oversaw more than a half dozen concepts that showed off her diversity, from pizza to burgers, from tacos to mac and cheese, from Asian to Italian.
The next bad thing I stick in my mouth that she prepares will be the first one. She’s that good.
Leaming, a Woodstown native, Brigantine resident and graduate of the Academy of Culinary Arts at Atlantic Cape Community College in Mays Landing, is sharing her culinary skills in a variety of ways right now.
First, she’s sharing her knowledge at her alma mater, serving as an adjunct professor at the Academy, where she is helping students find their path in the food world like she once did.
Second, and the reason we should all rejoice, is that she recently debuted Zang Croissants, an amazing bake shop and eatery located in the S Building of Atlantic Cape Community College’s main campus in Mays Landing, where her creativity is exploding like anyone’s tastebuds will when they sample her goodies.
There are so many cool things about Zang Croissants it’s hard to list them all, but at the top of that list is that Leaming isn’t doing this all alone. Not only is she employing a current pastry student at the Academy, but her creative partner in Zang Croissants is no other than her daughter Kirsten, another Academy alum who concentrated on pastry studies there and currently works for the school as a culinary recruiter
Zang Croissants, which was initially envisioned as a pop-up, was so successful when it debuted in the first weekend of December, that it not only outgrew its initial space that prompted the move to the S Building, but it is now a permanent fixture 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. – or sold out – every Friday and Saturday.
“We were talking one day with some people who I am consulting with, and we thought, ‘If we were going to do a pop-up, what would it be?’,” said Leaming, who at one time owned two restaurants in Philadelphia, Suppa and Samwich. “And then we said, ‘Oh, what about croissants?’ They are super popular right now in other parts of the country and in the U.K., and I really thought I could make a concept out of the whole thing. It was just one of those moments when you know you have something that could be special.
And special it certainly is.
Leaming approached Academy of Culinary Arts Interim Director Joe Sheridan about leasing the space and kitchen – others sometimes use the kitchen as a commissary – and presented him a PowerPoint about how it would all work. Sheridan loved the idea, brought it to his boss, and now we can all enjoy some of the best croissants I ever had in my life … and that includes multiple trips to Paris.
“Croissants are something we haven’t seen much of in this area,” Leaming said. “There is a niche there, especially when it comes to creating so many different things with croissant dough. I knew people would enjoy it.”
Named after Augustus Zang, an Austrian entrepreneur who not only founded Die Presse, a daily newspaper that still exists today, but is credited as inventing the croissant – how is that for versatility? – Zang Croissants is everything a croissant connoisseur could ever dream of … and more.
For starters, the croissant dough is simply incredible. Soft on the inside, flaky on the outside and buttery throughout, the layered dough is a thing of perfection. Something like this must have taken Leaming months to perfect, right?
“Well, not really,” Leaming said. “I actually started with the same recipe that I am using now. It was something I just went after. I always teach myself different things, so why not croissants? It’s really all about technique when you are dealing with a layered pastry like this or a biscuit or puff dough. I have made my share of Wellingtons (at Ramsay) and biscuits everywhere I have worked, so it was more about taking the time and learning how to fold and layer and take the time to do it right to create all of those beautiful, buttery layers. I actually got it down pretty quick. The hardest part was learning to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the kitchen and things like that. It’s not just a cut-and-dry recipe. You have to modify and adjust based on the conditions every day. You have to know the feel of the dough.”
Most people in the kitchen define themselves as either a chef or a baker. Leaming said she never pigeonholed herself.
“I always thought you needed to know both to be successful, especially when you are running your own business and you have to create your own desserts,” she said. “And as a teacher, you might have to teach a pastry class or a baking class. So, it’s good to be diversified. You want to be able to create your own menu from top to bottom.”
The chef, however, does appreciate having Kirsten create with her.
“She perfects a lot of my techniques … tweaks them to make them better,” Leaming said. “And she’s great at creating fillers and flavors and decorating, which she is better than I am at. Chefs don’t like to measure, but she is disciplined that way. Plus, we work well together. I was pregnant with her when I went to culinary school, so she was literally born into this.”
Zang’s menu changes weekly, but there are many savory and sweet staples.
On the croissant ($4) side, you can always expect to find almond cream, chocolate, ham and cheese and beef hot dog croissants. Other flavors may include spinach and feta, sausage and peppers (my favorite) and guava and cheese. There are also “Supreme Croissants” ($5) that take the shape of a wide elephant ear, feature a filling and a topping. Last week, the Reese’s Peanut Butter featured a divine peanut butter mousse and Reese’s chunks, plus there were also pistachio and S’mores flavors, too.
Cruffins ($4) use the same dough but are shaped in the form of a popover or muffin. The cinnamon, cardamom and ginger savory cruffin was insane, but the roasted garlic, basil and mozzarella might have even been better.
“There are so many things you can do with croissant dough,” Leaming said. “And when you make it in different shapes and sizes and do different things with them, they end up with different textures and flavors. That buttery dough just works. It’s so diverse. And even after a day or two, you just warm it up, and all of that butter just brings it back to life. Like last week we made these Nutella raspberry buns with the croissant dough, and they were just fabulous.”
You will find other reasons to visit Zang Croissants than croissants. Last week, there were three styles of focaccia ($6) – heirloom tomato, balsamic and olive oil; goat cheese and caramelized onion; and tomato pie – as well as a sourdough boule. You can even have a focaccia sandwich such as Caprese or a bacon BLT. Add a bowl of soup – last week was pasta fagioli; this week will be chili and cornbread – for $4 to $8, depending on what size you choose.
There’s also cookies ($3), including the to-die-for brown butter chocolate chip – Leaming’s signature snickerdoodles are coming soon – and beverages ($3) like Mexican hot chocolate, passion fruit oolong iced tea and raspberry lemonade. A coffee bar will be debuting soon, possibly as soon as this week.
“We will change things up every week,” Leaming promises. “One week we had a chorizo and Manchego focaccia. And I have a great cheesesteak that I am looking forward to using with the croissants somehow.”
With approachable pricing, dynamite flavors and a niche in South Jersey’s culinary landscape, Leaming definitely has something special with Zang Croissants.
“I am not sure yet what this will evolve into,” she said. “I love having it right here at the school. I hope we can grow, and I can hire more students so they not only learn how all of this works as part of their education here, but they can also make a few bucks doing it. I think it’s a great opportunity for them. The faculty loves it, locals are finding us, and I really think the students will be glad to see us here when they return from break because this café hasn’t been used for years. But no matter where it goes, I am excited about its potential.”
And so are we!
(Zang Croissants is located in Building S at Atlantic Cape Community College’s Mays Landing Campus. Hours are 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. or sold out Fridays and Saturdays. Like Zang Croissants on Facebook and Instagram.)
Scott Cronick is an award-winning journalist who has written about entertainment, food, news and more in South Jersey for nearly three decades. He hosts a daily radio show – “Off The Press with Scott Cronick” – 4 to 6 p.m. weekdays on Newstalk WOND 1400-AM, 92.3-FM, and WONDRadio.com, and he also co-owns Tennessee Avenue Beer Hall in Atlantic City, while working on various projects, including charitable efforts, throughout the area. He can be reached at scronick@comcast.net.
