Drink Up!
By David Setley
Happy harvest season! In my opinion, autumn (aka Locals’ Summer) is the best time of the year. The air is cool, the skies are clear, and in the wine world, it is harvest time. In the Garden State, we celebrate the hard work of those in agriculture by purchasing the fruits of their labor. Many of us seek out the most natural produce available that is grown with minimal, if any, chemical additives. For some wine consumers, those criteria are equally important in the wines they purchase. This week, let’s look at some of the terms used to indicate such standards in wine: sustainable, organic, biodynamic, and vegan-friendly.
Sustainable agriculture practices have become more common in the wine industry. A sustainable certification requires the vineyard to use practices that conserve energy and water, and to promote the long-term health of the earth and the surrounding environment. Wine production takes a holistic corporate social responsibility approach to sustainability, following the three pillars of economy, society, and the environment. California is a leader in the United States through their statewide sustainability program, with about one-third of vineyards representing more than 85% of commercial wine production that is sustainably certified. J. Lohr Wineries is one of the many Golden State winemakers to earn this certification, with vineyards that produce the company’s very popular Arroyo Seco Monterey Chardonnay, the Falcon’s Perch Pinot Noir, the Paso Robles Merlot, and my favorite, the Tower Road Petite Sirah. It is important to note that sustainable practices have been utilized globally for centuries, although not all vineyards invest in the cost or take the steps to become certified.
The term “organic” has been popular in grocery stores for decades. In the global wine market, the market share of organic wines is between 4-5% (prowein.com, 2023). Simply put, organic wines are those produced with organically grown grapes, meaning they are grown without the use of synthetic chemicals or pesticides, including added sulfites. This does not necessarily mean there aren’t other non-chemical additives added to the wine, however. The approved additive list varies from country to country and may, among other things, include yeast, egg whites, or rennet, an enzyme produced in the stomachs of mammals. These additives assist in the filtration process of wine prior to bottling. Certified vegan-friendly wines are those that do not contain additives from animal products.
You may be familiar with the term “sulfites”, the sulfur dioxide (SO2) found in wines that many wine consumers blame for causing headaches, especially when they drink red wines. Sulfites serve as a shelf stabilizer and preservative in wine and other foods, slowing them from going bad. For a small percentage of people with a particular sensitivity, sulfites may indeed be the cause of those headaches. For most people, the alcohol level is likely to blame. I recommend drinking one glass of water with each glass of wine to minimize the likelihood of a headache. Sulfites are present in many consumables, including cured meats, cheese, canned soup, dried fruit, french fries, etc. This compound naturally occurs in wine, so virtually all wine has some sulfites at low levels. A good quality dry red wine contains about 50 parts per million sulfites.
In the United States, a wine identified as organic is “a wine made from organically grown grapes without added sulfites.” So, if sulfites, or other synthetic additives, are a concern for you, organic wines may be a good option. The Allumea wines from Italy are a great example of excellent organic wines. They are available in the Allumea Rosso, a Montepulciano wine from Tuscany, the Allumea Nero D’Avola, a Merlot from Sicily, and the Allumea Grillo, a Chardonnay also from Sicily. All of these wines are vegan-friendly as well.
Have you heard of Avaline wines? Actress Cameron Diaz is a partner in this wine company and has established total transparency as a corporate objective. All wines produced under the Avaline brand are 100% organically grown and vegan-friendly with no added sugar, no added sulfites, and no chemical additives. Avaline wines are fermented “dry,” leaving no residual sugar, ensuring all wines have zero grams of sugar per serving. If sugar intake is a concern for you, give these wines a try. Avaline wines are produced in a number of varietals, including the Avaline Red, Rosé, and Pinot Noir wines from France and the Avaline White and sparkling varietals from Spain.
Lastly, biodynamic winemaking is a practice that incorporates aspects of organic and sustainable agriculture, and more. The philosophy behind biodynamic winemaking goes back a hundred years to an Austrian philosopher named Rudolph Steiner. The basis is a belief that everything in the universe — the Earth, the moon, the planets, etc. — is interconnected. Biodynamic winemaking promotes activities that promote this harmony. Mike Benziger, of Benziger Family Vineyards in Sonoma, Calif., says, “at its core, biodynamics is an energy management system.” Biodynamics works on a calendar of activities that include fruit days, root days, flower days, and leaf days. Prescribed viticultural activities, including everything from watering to harvesting, are allowed or forbidden depending on the day’s classification. Montinore Estates in Oregon has been practicing biodynamics since the early 2000s and received the Biodynamic Certification in 2008. The winery states that these practices are the most complete approach to land stewardship and the highest level of ethical farming practices in the industry. Montinore produces outstanding certified biodynamic and organic wines, including its Pinot Noir and Pinot Noir Reserve, its Pinot Gris, and the unique orange wine, the Montinore Estate L’Orange 2020.
I hope this discussion of organic, biodynamic, sustainable, and vegan wine was of interest to you. Cheers to the harvest and cheers to the wines that attempt to keep us and our planet healthier and more sustainable. As always, contact me with any questions or comments at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
