Drink Up!
By David Setley
The wine grape harvest in France known as la vendage is nearly complete. In some regions, la vendage started as early as mid-August; it ends mid to late October. This week’s article will focus on some iconic regions of France and offer recommendations that will allow you to celebrate the harvest. So, let’s pour a glass and start tasting one of France’s greatest contributions to humanity: wine!
To start this French harvest tour, let’s begin with Beaujolais, a region that has become synonymous with the la vendage. I’ll focus more fully on Beaujolais Nouveau, the rapidly fermented and minimally aged wine produced with this year’s harvest, in November. This week, I’d like to discuss the more refined and outstanding wine from this region. Gamay is the grape of Beaujolais, accounting for 98% of the region’s output. Gamay is a red grape with many similarities to Pinot Noir, both producing wines that are medium-bodied with flavors of cherries, red raspberries and a notable earthiness often described as forest floor or mushrooms. The difference is that Gamay wines tend to have a bit more fruitiness and a bit less earthiness. Additionally, Beaujolais wines tend to be slightly lower in alcohol content and price. If you are a fan of Pinot Noir, you will likely be a fan of Gamay. Two awesome recommendations from this region are the L. Tramier & Fils Beaujolais-Villages 2022 and the L. Tramier & Fils Moulin-à-Vent 2020. Both are AOP (Appellation D’Origine Protegee), which is the regulatory certification of exemplary wines of this region. In fact, Moulin-à-Vent is one of the most respected appellations of Beaujolais. The wines from this area tend to have a slightly higher intensity and tannic structure, making them great harvest wines.
The wine region just south of Beaujolais is the Rhone Valley. French wine history tells us that this area was the first area planted by the Greeks when they brought viticulture to France. The Rhone River Valley is world famous for blended red wines known by the acronym “GSM” (Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre) for the dominant grapes grown in the region. Wines to the north tend to be Syrah-dominant, while those to the south tend to be Grenache-dominant. Regardless, the majority of red wines are a blend of these grapes. Mourvèdre is typically a smaller percentage of the blend, used to add body and savory characteristics to the wine.
The Côtes du Rhône is one of the largest appellations in the Rhone Valley. Try the Le Grand Val Mal 2021 Vieilles Vignes for a great and very reasonably priced example of this wine. The blend is 60% Syrah, 20% Grenache, and 20% Mourvèdre. The color is dark red, and the mouthfeel is smooth and velvety. The aroma and flavors are ripe dark fruit like blueberry, blackberry, and black currants with hints of rosemary, spice, and tobacco leaf. Ore, try the Le Grand Val Mal Cotes du Rhone Generation 2022 for a Grenache-dominant blend (80% Grenache and 20% Syrah). Grenache wines have a floral characteristic reminiscent of violets with more of a cherry fruit flavor and notes of baking spices. A fun experience is to get a bottle of each and note the differences and similarities in a side-by-side tasting. Both wines are food-friendly and pair well with anything from grilled poultry to lamb to pizza.
Bordeaux is one of the most famous wine regions in France, home to two red grapes – Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot – and two white grapes – Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon. Bordeaux red wines have also been blended for centuries. I often say that winemaking has four distinct components, the first of which is agriculture. Grapes require someone who is knowledgeable of the crop, the land, and the weather. The second component is science. Many winemakers have science degrees, allowing them to effectively monitor acidity, sugar, and other components of grapes to ensure proper maturity from buds to harvest. The third component is the artistry of winemaking. In France, terroir (the combination of soil, climate, topography, and traditions) is everything. Once the grapes are harvested, artistic decisions are made regarding how the juice will become wine. In many regions of France, the act of blending has become an art form throughout centuries and across generations. For example, appellations on the left bank of the Bordeaux region are ideal for Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, while those on the right bank are ideal for Merlot. An outstanding example of a right-bank style Bordeau blend is the Chateau Carbonneau Sequoia 2020. This is a blend of 54% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. Chateau Carbonneau is only 20 kilometers from the iconic appellation of Saint Emilion and reflects the wonderful full-bodied wines of that terroir. The tannins are very smooth and well-structured while the flavor is dark berries and warm spices. Or, for a left-bank style Bordeau, try the Chateau Carbonneau La Verriere from Sainte-Foy. This wine is 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. The dominance of Cabernet Sauvignon adds to the dryness and earthiness of this blend. Again, this is a great opportunity to experience the terroir by tasting these wines side-by-side.
Oh, I didn’t mention the last component of winemaking: magic! How else can we explain that fermented grape juice can take on the aromas and tastes of everything from cherries to pineapple to baking spices to tobacco leaves to mushrooms to chocolate? As with all good magic, winemaking is the result of millennia of collective experience of the wonderful winemakers throughout the world. Every bottle you enjoy reflects that magic!
If you enjoyed this brief harvest tour of France, I invite you to stop in and discuss these and other wines. As always, feel free to contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, Happy Harvest and Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
