Thanksgiving wines: a toast to gratitude

Drink Up!
By David Setley

Thanksgiving is about gratitude and appreciation for those we care most about, both living and deceased, and for the freedom we share. Though some other countries celebrate a “harvest holiday” with a similar name, the American version of Thanksgiving is historically unique. Most recall the story of Pilgrims and Native Americans sitting down to celebrate the harvest. According to the journals of William Bradford, the first governor of the Plymouth Colony, the first Thanksgiving celebration occurred in the fall of 1621. However, it was more of a dinner with prayers, bonfires, and gunshots to ward off the Native Americans in the area than what many of us envisioned in elementary school. A peace treaty with the Wampanoag people and the shared harvest celebrations started a few years later. In 1863, President Abraham Lincoln declared the last Thursday of November to be Thanksgiving to heal hurts from the Civil War. In 1941, FDR changed the date to the fourth Thursday.

The most common question I hear around this time is: “What should I serve with Thanksgiving dinner?” Though families enjoy a variety of foods, I’ve based recommendations in this article on the traditional Thanksgiving menu: turkey, stuffing, green bean casserole, sweet potatoes and/or mashed potatoes, cranberries, and pie. Here are my top 10 Thanksgiving wine recommendations for 2024.

The Mantlerhof Gruner Veltliner is a classic Austrian white wine that pairs well with Thanksgiving dinner, from appetizers to dessert. This is a well-balanced dry white wine with notes of pears and green apples with a touch of citrus and a lovely stony minerality. The relatively high acidity makes it an ideal pairing for roasted turkey and vegetables.

Another excellent Austrian white wine is the Schlosskellerei Gobelsburg Riesling from Kamptal. Some have the misconception that all Riesling wines are sweet. Not so! This is a medium dry white wine with the flavors of white peaches, pears and green apple with notes of honey and ginger. This is a great wine for the entire dinner, even the dessert.

Chardonnay is a classic pairing with poultry. I highly recommend the Balletto Vineyards Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley of California. This wine has the classic flavors of green apple and pear with notes of citrus and vanilla. Balletto makes the outstanding wine in both a traditionally oaked and unoaked version for those who prefer less of the wood notes of most Cali Chards.

The Vigneau-Chevreau Vouvray Cuvee Silex is also high on my list for a white wine. Vouvray is a subregion in the center of the Loire Valley in France. The grape produced in this appellation is Chenin Blanc. This dry white wine has the intense flavors and aromas of apricots and pears with light notes of citrus and honey and a notable stone-like minerality. If you have not experienced a Vouvray, Thanksgiving is a great opportunity. It pairs perfectly with every course and is guaranteed to delight your guests.

My last recommendation for a white is a sparkling wine from Valdobbiadene, Italy. The Bortolomiol Grande Cuvee Del Fondatore Motus Vitae Prosecco is the perfect pairing as a “Welcome Wine,” to greet guests, with your salad course and with your dessert course. It is one of the best Prosecco wines I have experienced. It is dry, crisp, and refreshing with a persistent effervescence that will add a sparkle to your Thanksgiving.

The adage, “red wine with red meats and white wines with fish and white meats,” is not always true. Turkey is a relatively low-fat meat, so many lower-tannin, medium- or light-bodied red wines with higher acidity pair very well. The Vina Zorzal Malayeto Garnacha from Navarra, Spain, is a medium-bodied young red wine with a medium acidity that pairs perfectly with turkey and all the sides. The fruit flavors are plums and berries with notes of orange and herbs such as sage and thyme. Sounds like Thanksgiving to me!

From the Piedmont region of northwest Italy, try the Mauro Molino Barbera D’Alba. It is a fresh, dry red wine with the flavors of tart cherries and blackberries and notes of dried herbs and black pepper. The relatively low tannins and high acidity make this Italian a guaranteed hit for the red wine lovers at your table.

A French recommendation is the Le Grande Valmal Vielles Vignes from the Cote du Rhone region. This medium-bodied dry red wine is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre and has flavors of dark berries and Mediterranean aromatic herbs. Delicious!

One of the classic red wine pairings for Thanksgiving is Pinot Noir. The Willamette Valley of Oregon has become world-renowned for this noble grape. The Pinot Noir wines from there have the classic old-world flavors that wines from Burgundy have but with a new-world freshness. The L’Umami NW Wine Company Pinot Noir is my recommendation. This is a dry, earthy red with flavors of ripe red cherries and notes of fresh mushrooms, black pepper, and smoke. The relatively high acidity makes it a perfect pairing for your turkey dinner.

My last recommendation is the other classic red pairing for your turkey dinner: Gamay. This dry, fresh, light to medium-bodied wine has the fruit flavors of pomegranate, cranberry, and blackberry with a beautiful earthiness. My recommendation is the L. Tramier & Fils Moulin-A-Vent Beaujolais Gamay. The classic flavor notes and high acidity of this wine will earn it a place of honor at your Thanksgiving table. It is almost always on mine.

I am grateful to you all for taking the time to read these wine articles; it is truly my pleasure to write them. Don’t hesitate to contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com with any questions. Until next time, Happy Thanksgiving and Happy Wining!

David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.

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