Drink Up!
By David Setley
This week, we celebrate Independence Day, the most American of all holidays, and the 248th anniversary of the Declaration of Independence. Let’s hear it for the red, white, and blue! Did you know that wine is produced in all 50 states? While I won’t attempt to make recommendations from all 50, allow me to offer suggestions for red, white, and even blue wines that you may enjoy over the holiday weekend.
For our first red wine on this all-American wine tour, we’ll start in California. You are likely familiar with great Cabernet Sauvignons, Merlots, Chardonnays, and Zinfandels produced in the state, but have you tried a Petite Sirah? I would argue that California does Petite Sirah better than any other location. The terroir of the Paso Robles region is ideal, and the 2020 J. Lohr Tower Road Petite Sirah is one of the best examples. This wine is hand-harvested and barrel-aged in French oak for 18 months before bottling. It is the perfect wine for grilling season and pairs well with any grilled vegetables or meats. The tannins are rich but smooth. The bold flavors are blackberries, plum, and cranberry with notes of leather, chocolate, and a touch of oak. In my opinion, this is a perfect summer red.
For a second red wine, we’ll head to the Pacific Northwest. The Willamette Valley of Oregon has become famous, and rightly so, for excellent Pinot Noirs. My favorite Oregon winery is Montinore Estates, and their 2019 Montinore Estate Reserve Pinot Noir is why. The winemaker selects the best Pinot Noir grapes from each of the estate vineyards and blends them in this wine to represent the best of the best from that year. The 2019 vintage has well-structured tannins and the lovely acidity that this varietal is known for. The aroma highlights cedar wood and forest floor, while the palate is ripe cherries and baking spices. In my opinion, this is one of the best Pinot Noirs produced in the U.S.
Let’s move on to white wines. As we head a bit further east, I’d like to recommend a white sparkling wine from a state that you may not expect. My wife, Gwen, was in search of a sparkling wine for her entry to one of Passion Vines’ monthly Open that Bottle Night events a while back. In browsing the shelves, we found a Gruet sparkling wine that was made in the Methode Champenois, the traditional double fermentation process utilized in Champagne, France. The Gruet Blanc de Blanc has earned high praise from Wine Spectator, among other wine sources, and is a brut (dry) sparkling wine made from Chardonnay grapes. I was amazed at the yeasty brioche aroma and crisp tropical flavors of this wine. Where was it from, you ask? New Mexico, where my wife grew up (which cinched her decision in choosing it for the event). Everyone at the event thoroughly enjoyed it. If you are looking for a sparkling wine to toast our nation’s birthday, consider this offering from New Mexico. You won’t be disappointed.
Continuing east, for our next white wine, we’ll visit Hillick and Hobbs Winery on Seneca Lake in New York. Owned by Paul Hobbs, the international wine visionary that Forbes Magazine called “The Steve Jobs of Wine,” Hillick and Hobbs Winery is named in honor of his parents, who met at Cornell University and raised him on a farm in upstate New York. Only one varietal is grown and produced at the winery: Riesling. Hobbs believes that the terroir of the Finger Lakes region is perfect for Rieslings, and I must say that the Hillick and Hobbs 2021 Dry Riesling perfectly demonstrates his belief. The grapes are hand-harvested and whole-cluster pressed. They are then 100% fermented and aged in stainless steel. The result is a floral aroma with flavors of pear and citrus, with the minerality of crushed rock. The long finish is extended by crisp acidity. Many of Hobbs’ wines can be expensive, but this one is quite reasonable. If you haven’t enjoyed the work of this outstanding winemaker, start with this Dry Riesling.
That covers red and white wines, but what about blue? For that, we’ll come home to New Jersey to William Heritage Winery, located in Mullica Hills. Proprietors Bill and Penni Heritage utilize sustainable farming at their vineyards and produce a wide variety of excellent wines. Among these is a sweet wine made from blueberries grown in Haddonfield, New Jersey. The Heritage Jersey Blue has won the Governor’s Cup in the sweet fruit wine category and is my recommendation for a blue wine this Independence Day. It’s well-made and is perfect for guests who prefer something fruitier and sweeter.
What color do you get when you mix red and white? Pink! I’ll finish our American wine tour in Long Island, New York, with a perfectly named wine for the season: Summer in a Bottle Long Island Rosé 2023, from Wolfer Estates. This wonderful rosé is comprised of an array of red and white grapes, including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Riesling, Petit Meunier, Cayuga, and Syrah. Impressive, right? Acidity adds the crisp freshness we look for in a good rosé, and I am a big fan of the minerality, light salinity, and long finish of this dry wine. Summer in a Bottle is perfect with spicy foods. It may be the perfect wine for fireworks!
Celebrate America by offering your guests red, white, and blue wines this Independence Day. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, happy birthday, America! And Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
