The Casino File
By Chuck Darrow
Any restaurant conceived and operated by uber-chef Jose Garces would be a tough act to follow. But Ossu Asian Tavern at Tropicana Atlantic City—which began life as Garces’ Okatshe—hardly pales in comparison. Instead, a much-needed exterior change and a broadening of culinary scope have helped make Ossu a linchpin of the Trop’s wide-ranging dining scene.
Ossu came into being in the summer of 2022 following the end of Garces’ affiliation with Tropicana (including the Spanish-facing Olon, which is now Il Verdi). Right away, a crucial decision was made.
Okatshe had a unique gimmick: Patrons didn’t enter it directly from the casino floor, but instead first walked through a facsimile of a Japanese candy store in the manner of a Prohibition-era speakeasy. While it was certainly different (for Atlantic City), it could also be confusing for the uninitiated. As such, explained Patrick Starr, the gaming hall’s director of food and beverage, Trop management was quick to 86 it.
“They were like, ‘Okay, it’s cool, but who sees it?’, he recalled. “So that was one of the first things that changed. We wanted to make it more of an entryway lobby for more guests on the casino floor to have access to it.
“You still see [reviews] online like, ‘I wish the candy store was still there.’ But again, if you never knew it existed, what good was that doing us?
“I think we lost a little bit of that ‘wow factor’ of the speakeasy feel. But from an execution standpoint, I think the guest experience is just the same.”
More recently (and importantly–after all, this is a restaurant), about a year ago, Ossu expanded its menu to include non-Japanese, Asian offerings after the Golden Dynasty Chinese eatery ended a 30-year run in 2023.
“We have some Chinese, Vietnamese, and Thai dishes that we added,” said Starr. “We still wanted to maintain that demographic of guests and the favorites that were there. So, we kind of took the best of Ossu, which is always focused on [small-plate] Japanese street food–yakatori and sushi. And we incorporated some larger plates with some things that guests are familiar with, and added some entrees as well, just to try to appeal to a broader range of guests.
“I think this hybrid menu that we put together [offers] the best of both locations. A mom can come in and get sushi and dad can get his shrimp pad Thai or beef lo main. I think before we were a little bit pigeonholed with it being exclusively Japanese. That takes a special taste: How many times can you just have that during the month?
“But I think the fact that we have a couple different flavor profiles and cultures in there now also helps us become a little bit more mainstream and appeal to a broader group.”
An even-more-recent addition to the Ossu gameplan is a 5-to-6 p.m. happy-hour menu that consists of a half-dozen small-plate items (including Cantonese egg rolls and edamame) and four varieties of sushi. All are priced at $9; the small-plate portions are legitimate and definitely provide value for the cost. A variety of sake and draft and bottled beers are available for $6. The same deals are offered Friday and Saturday nights starting at 10 p.m.
“We actually started happy hour at Okatshe right before Covid,” noted Starr, who added it was successful as a late-night lure. “This venue tends to gravitate more towards a younger crowd that eats later and then goes out for nightlife.
“And once we reopened for happy hour at Ossu, it was, ‘What more can we do to get more guests in there?’ We added the 5-to-6 o’clock [happy hour] and it’s great because we’re now getting guests coming in at a time that we normally wouldn’t have.
“Now, we’re, getting a bunch of first- timers coming in [because] you can get any amount of food, and the portion size is great for less than 10 bucks. You can’t even go to Wendy’s without a meal costing $12 or $13. And this is curated food actually done by a chef in-house.”
Starr is particularly proud of Ossu’s large selection of Japanese booze.
“We have over 50 Japanese whiskeys,” he said. “Not a lot of people understand Japanese whiskey. It’s more of a niche. But once people know that you have it, they seek you out.”
For more, go to caesars.com/tropicana-ac/restaurants/ossu.
Ocean dives into
Remy Martin
We’re not quite clear on the connection between cognac (which has French origins) and the rituals of Chinese New Year, but it’s obviously a thing at Ocean Casino-Resort.
Friday (Jan. 24), the Boardwalk’s easternmost pleasure dome is hosting the Remy Martin XO Lunar Year of the Snake Sampling & Mixology Class. The bash features a tasting session led by a Rémy Martin rep, who will offer insight into the brand’s history and its place in the adult-beverage universe.
The festivities also boast a mixology class during which guests will be guided through the process of creating cocktails using Rémy Martin VSOP and 1738.
Advance registration is suggested. Admission is $75 per person (of course, you must be at least 21 to participate). For tickets, go to theoceanac.com.
Chuck Darrow has spent more than 40 years writing about Atlantic City casinos.