Drink Up!
By David Setley
Happy Halloween! Pumpkin-spiced lattes, pumpkin ales, ginger-spiced cookies, and candy corn are as synonymous with the holiday as witches, ghouls and goblins. How about wine? This time of year, I look for wines that complement the colors of autumn and are in some way representative of the traditions, stories, legends, and tastes of the fall holidays: Halloween and the Day of the Dead (el Día de los Muertos).
The traditional colors of late October are black and orange. If you have never tried an orange wine, you are in for a treat. Juice from wine grapes is nearly always clear, so where does a wine’s color come from? Contact between skins and juice! To make a red wine, the skins of red grapes remain with the juice in a process called maceration. The red color comes from tannins, a phenolic compound in grape skins. For rosé wines, the skins of red grapes are only in contact with the juice for a short time to give the wine its familiar pink hue. The color of orange wine is created when the skins of white grapes remain in contact with the juice during maceration.
You may be wondering if this is a new-fangled marketing trick to sell wine in the fall. Not so! Orange wines are as old as wine itself. The first orange wines were produced over 8,000 years ago in the Middle-Eastern country of Georgia. Winemakers crushed white grapes and fermented them in a large clay vessel called a qvevri. The top of the qvevri was sealed with beeswax and then buried in the ground for temperature control. The result was an orange, dark amber-colored wine with a tannic structure similar to a light red wine.
For a taste of wine history, try the Rosha Winery-Timothée Rkatsiteli 2020 from the Kakheti region of Georgia. On a trip to the Finger Lakes a few years ago, my wife and I discovered this unique varietal. To pronounce the name, use your best English accent and say, “Our cat’s (on) the telly.” The Timothée Rkatsiteli is a testament to meticulous winemaking. The aroma is a complex bouquet of floral and fruit aromas. The flavors include notes of ripe apricots and honeydew melon with a touch of citrus and green apple. It also has delicate minerality with subtle hints of white flowers and a touch of spiced apple. Rkatsiteli is ideally served at about 50°F and pairs well with grilled seafood or poultry dishes, especially those with light, creamy sauces. It also complements a range of vegetarian dishes, including salads dressed with citrus vinaigrettes or creamy risottos.
The Montinore Estate L’Orange from the Willamette Valley of Oregon is an enjoyable orange wine as well. It is made from Pinot Gris and Muscat grapes, resulting in a dry wine with aromas of orange blossoms, honey, and chamomile tea. The flavor is bright with notes of tangerine, melon, and a touch of tarragon, perfect for the fall season.
For another popular orange wine, try the Gulp Hablo Orange Wine, an organic and vegan-friendly wine from the Castilla-La Mancha region of Spain. This one is a natural wine, also called a minimal intervention wine, meaning there are no added sulfites and only natural yeasts used in producing the wine. The flavor profile is similar to that of the Montinore L’Orange, albeit a bit more robust. Both vineyards employ biodynamic farming techniques. Either will add color and flavor to your holiday festivities.
I have two final recommendations for your Halloween pleasure that are not orange wines. First, try the Rocca Del Dragone (The Rock of the Dragon) from Campagna, Italy. The vineyards from which this wine is grown are low-yield, high-quality grapes with vines averaging 20 years of age. The Rocca Del Dragone is a deep red wine made from hand-selected 100% Aglianico grapes that are harvested in late October. It has aromas and flavors of black cherry, blackberry, dark chocolate, and coffee, with notes of pepper and minerality. The result is a full-bodied yet amazingly smooth and elegant wine. If you are unfamiliar with this varietal, take advantage of this holiday to become acquainted. You will not regret meeting the dragon! The label will add to your Halloween fun as well.
Finally, you are likely familiar with the legend of the Jersey Devil from the Pine Barrens of New Jersey. Valenzano Winery of New Jersey has immortalized this legend with Valenzano Jersey Devil Forte Red Wine, a deep, rich, and velvety red wine fortified with brandy and aged in oak for three years. If you enjoy Port Wines, you will love this devil! The label has an awesome image of the Jersey Devil that will complement your holiday get-together.
I hope you enjoyed this introduction to orange wines and will consider celebrating Halloween with some of these recommendations. Whether you are planning a trick-or-treat night, a festive party, or just keeping things simple, any of these wines would be a treat; no tricks! As always, if you have questions, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the wine bar. Until next time, Happy Halloween and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
