Drink Up!
By David Setley
“Tannins” seem to be one of the more complicated wine terms that I am frequently asked about. On the one hand, some folks associate tannins with issues such as headaches, stomach discomfort, and even hot flashes. On the other, tannins are an important component in red wine, as well as a compound found in some foods. Let’s look at tannins and consider alternatives for those seeking to enjoy great red wine with lower tannins.
Tannins are a phenolic compound. According to sciencedirect.com, phenolic compounds are among the most common chemicals found in many plants throughout the world. They are one of the most significant secondary metabolites (the most important components behind the health benefits and medicinal properties of plants) and are largely responsible for the antioxidant attributed to many “superfoods.” Tannins are present in the skins of wine grapes as well as most fruits, coffee, tea, legumes, nuts, chocolate, and some leafy, green vegetables.
After harvesting grapes, the winemaking process continues with what is commonly called the crushing of the grapes. I know we all just had an image of Lucille Ball stomping grapes in a gigantic barrel in Italy, right? In modern winemaking, Lucille stays on the sidelines as crushing is accomplished by a machine that very gently squeezes the grapes enough to separate the juice, referred to as “must” in wine-speak, from the skins, seeds, and stems, called “pomace”.
If a red wine is the winemaker’s objective, the “must” and the “pomace” remain in contact during maceration. Simply stated, maceration is a soaking process where the tannins are gradually transferred from the skins to the juice. The juice takes on the color, the flavor, and the antioxidant qualities discussed above. The duration of maceration depends on how tannic the winemaker wants the wine to be. For most reds, maceration can be as short as a week, and as long as a month or so. Rosé wine is accomplished by allowing the skins to macerate for a very short time in the juice, resulting in the familiar pink color. In general, the longer the skins have contact with the juice, the higher the concentration of tannins. The thickness of the grape skin can also play a part in this. It is all part of the science and artistry of winemaking.
In addition to color, tannins affect wine by adding to the flavor and mouthfeel of the wine. Tannins have a slightly bitter taste that, together with any remaining residual sugar, adds complexity. Bitterness may not sound appealing, but think of how tea, coffee, and dark chocolate have significant bitter components but are still considered delicious. It is the same for wines. Finally, tannins give wine an astringent effect, commonly referred to as dryness. Tannins bind proteins. The saliva on your tongue and in your mouth is full of proteins that the tannins bind, making your tongue, gums and palate feel dry.
Do tannins cause headaches, stomach distress and other issues? According to Harvard Health Publishing Online, maybe, for those who are particularly sensitive to tannins, but for the majority, no. The likely suspect for most is alcohol. Alcohol can cause blood vessels to dilate, thus causing headaches and other temporary discomforts. If you experience negative issues when drinking red wine, try drinking a glass of water for each glass of wine to help alleviate the problem. Or drink a white wine, rosé, or some of the lower-tannin red wines recommended below.
Pinot Noir is produced around the world and is among the lowest tannin red wines available. Burgundy, France is considered the birthplace of this varietal and produces many reasonably priced options. Try the Domaine Moissenet-Bonnard-Bourgogne La Cuvee de l’Oncle Paul 2021. This is an outstanding 100% Pinot Noir. The Russian River Valley of Sonoma California also produces great Pinot Noir. Try the Balletto Vineyards-Pinot Noir 2020. The Willamette Valley of Oregon continues to gain more fame in this varietal. Try the Montinore Estate-Pinot Noir 2020 or Lemelson Winery-Thea’s Selection Pinot Noir 2021.
Northern Italian red wines are also a great option. Barbera wines from the northwestern Piedmont region is another lower tannin red varietal. In fact, some consider Barbera to be the Pinot Noir of Italy. Try the Mauro Molino-Barbera D’Alba 2022 or the Roberto Ferraris-Barbera d’Asti 2022. Both are reasonably priced and guaranteed to please. The wines of the Valpolicella region of the Veneto in northeastern Italy are also wonderful. The primary grapes used for red wines in this region are Corvino, Rondinella, and Corvinone; all produce a delicious, yet lower-tannin red wine. Try the reasonably priced Brigaldara-Valpolicella Classico 2022 or the Giuliano Rosati-Valpolicella 2021.
Arguably the lowest tannin red wine is Gamay, found in the Beaujolais region of France. You may know about the Beaujolais Nouveau that is produced in November for the harvest celebration. What I am describing is made in the same region and with the same grape but is a high-quality aged wine that is among the most popular red wines in France. Try the Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorees-Beaujolais Vieilles Vignes 2022 or the Jean-Paul Dubost-Moulin-À-Vent “En Brenay” 2021. Either of these, or any of the recommendations above, will satisfy your craving for a great red wine while offering a lower tannic effect.
I hope this short discussion has given you a bit more understanding of tannins, as well as some lower-tannin options to try. As always, if you have questions or comments, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
