Drink Up!
By David Setley
Week four of our Summer Wine Tour of Italy is upon us. On this final leg of our tour, I will cover the southern regions of the country’s mainland, plus Sicily and Sardinia. Join me in a look at Campania, Puglia, Calabria, Sicily, and Sardegna.
South of Rome is Naples, best known for pizza. Just outside there is the wine region of Campania, the home of Aglianico (pronounced “olli-yawn-nee-ko”). Nebbiolo may be the king of wines in the north, but Aglianico is king in the south. This dry, dark red wine has fruit flavors of ripe bing cherries and red plums with a touch of white pepper and smoke. The thick-skinned Aglianico grape produces a high tannin, but silky smooth wine. Aglianico is perfect with barbecued meat, Italian red sauce dishes, and, of course, pizza! I am a big fan of the Rocca del Dragone from the town of Avellino. The wine is 100% Aglianico from low-volume, high-quality old vines.
Southern Italy is not just about red wines. Campania offers an excellent white wine made from the Greco di Tufo grape that came to Italy before the Roman Empire. In fact, it was the Greeks who primarily introduced the Italian peninsula to winemaking. Terredora di Paolo-Greco di Tufo Loggia della Serra 2021 is a wine made from this ancient grape. It is a bone-dry white wine that is elegant and balanced with aromas of white flowers and citrus fruit, with notes of pear, apple, and honey and a stone minerality on the palate. The fine acidity pairs well with cheeses, salads, fish, and shellfish.
For Puglia, the home of the Primitivo grape, picture the boot shape of Italy and the area on the southeastern shores where the heel is located. Primitivo is the Italian name of a wine you likely know well: Zinfandel. This is an example of one grape with two names, one that is old world and one that is new world. Zinfandel (New World) wines from California tend to be more fruit-forward, higher alcohol, and less earthy than Puglia’s (Old World) Primitivo. The reason? Terroir! Different soil, different climates, different elevations, and different winemaking traditions produce different wines, even from the same grape. “Lunga vita alla differenza!” That is, long live the difference. Vespa-Primitivo ‘Il Bruno’ 2021 is a great example of this wine.
Closer to the tip of the boot heel, but still in Puglia, is the village of Cupertino and another famous southern Italian grape: Negroamaro. The Corte Ottone Copertino Riserva is a great example of a wine produced from this grape that comes in a cool bottle that you just have to see. It is a wonderfully balanced dry red wine with very smooth tannins and a delicious red berry and cherry fruit aroma and flavor. This is a great wine for summer picnics or a warm breezy evening relaxing on the porch.
Italy has two large islands to its south, Sardegna/Sardinia and Sicily. Sardegna produces both red and white grapes; the dominant red is Cannonau, and the dominant white is Vermentino. Cannonau is believed to be derived from the Grenache grape and has a very similar flavor profile. Santa Maria La Palma-Cannonau di Sardegna Le Bombarde 2021 is a good example of this Sardinian red wine. It is dry, full-bodied, medium-plus tannins, and has flavor notes of blueberries and blackberries. Cannonau is an elegant wine that pairs well with traditional Italian red sauce dishes and grilled meat. For the white, Santa Maria La Palma-Vermentino di Sardegna Aragosta is smooth, dry, easy to drink, and goes incredibly well with seafood. Santa Maria La Palma-Aragosta Rosato is the winery’s rosé that is a classic rosé but with a more intense color and flavor than most French-style rosés. I love this wine with sushi.
Sicily also has both red and white grapes. The red contribution is the deep, dark red Nero D’Avola which produces a dry, yet fruity wine that is as intense in flavor as it is in color, but is very easy to drink. The flavors are dark red cherries, plums, and blackberries with hints of tobacco leaf and leather. The Allumea Nero D’Avola/Merlot blend is a great example of this varietal and pairs well with lasagna, ravioli, sausage, and meat sauce pasta dishes. Allumea also offers a white blend that demonstrates Sicily’s Grillo grape. They blend this medium-bodied, flavorful white grape with another grape grown on the island: Chardonnay. It is unoaked and perfect for summer.
For a final recommendation that spans many of the wine regions I discussed this past month, I encourage you to pick up a bottle of SetteVigne. SetteVigne is an Italian red blend that includes, in equal portions, grapes from seven wine regions.
I hope you enjoyed this four-week Italian Wine Tour. Now that we are at the end, you may be wondering what to choose first! Truth be told, I have only covered the tip of the iceberg. Italy claims to have at least 350 different grapes used in wine production, many of which are not exported to the USA. If the history and wines of Italy interest you, I hope to see you at the three-week Wine Foundations: Italy class in September. Details can be found at passionvines.com, under the events tab.
