Drink up!
By David Setley
It’s May. It’s getting warmer, and rosés are in full bloom! Rosé wines have had a resurgence of popularity in recent years, particularly during the warmer months. Based on current wine statistics reported by MDPI, an industry research journal, one of every ten bottles of wine sold worldwide is a rosé. You may be surprised to learn that rosés are arguably more complicated to create than either white or red wines. Read on so that you will be in the know and ready to enjoy these pink wine choices.
There are generally two ways that rosé wines are made: the blending method and the limited maceration method. The least common method is the blending method, which takes already fermented red and white wines and, as the name suggests, blends them to make what we visually recognize as a pink rosé wine. The blending method is forbidden by most European wine-regulating organizations if the winemaker wishes for their rosé to be regionally certified. The exception is the Champagne region of France where the blending method is quite common. There are no regulations prohibiting the blending method in the majority of New World wine regions. However, most rosés that we enjoy are produced using the limited maceration method.
In red wine production, maceration is when grape skins, seeds, and possibly stems are allowed to remain in contact with the grape juice after crushing. The maceration period varies depending on the grape varietal, the requirements and traditions of the wine region, the level of tannins desired, and the length of aging desired by the winemaker. It can be as little as four days, as long as fifty days, or even longer in some extended-maceration styles of wine such as Barolos. In white wine production, the skins are removed immediately after crushing. In the case of rosé wines, the winemaker allows the skins to remain in contact with the juice for a limited time, generally anywhere from a few hours to a few days. The result is the pink hue that we know and love. As you have likely noticed, some rosés are darker pink while others are quite pale. This variation may be attributed to the length of the maceration and the varietal of red grapes used in skin contact.
Rosé wines are produced in almost every wine country in the world. For this article, I will focus on the Old-World contributions. France continues to be the dominant producer, with a market share above 60%. Many French wine regions produce rosés, with Provence being the clear leader. Rosés from Provence tend to be made from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, and a few lesser-known varietals. Provence-style rosés are typically light in both color and flavor. Whispering Angel and Miraval are two very popular examples, both of which are quite good. However, my choice from this region is the Avaline Rosé Wine. Avaline Rosé is light and fresh with notes of melon and citrus zest. All Avaline wines are made from organic grapes and are free from unnecessary additives such as sugars, colors, and added sulfites. Avaline wines are vegan-friendly, non-GMO, and gluten-free. This wine pairs perfectly with charcuterie, chicken, and seafood. I also love this rosé with sushi or spicier Indian or Chinese foods.
Another French entry into this discussion is the Domaine Olga Raffault Chinon Rosés. Chinon is an appellation in the Loire Valley’s largest red wine subregion. Jancis Robinson, one of the wine world’s most influential voices, calls Chinon wines “absurdly undervalued.” That is especially true with the Domaine Olga Raffault Chinon Rosé. Cabernet Franc is the primary grape of the region and in this wine. This well-structured, medium-body rosé has the sweet aroma of strawberries and crisp cherries. But, don’t be deceived! The wine is very dry, and the palate features light fruit flavors with excellent minerality and a stone finish. This is a must-try rosé.
Italy is also exceptional in the world of rosés. From the Piedmont region in the north comes the Proprietà Sperino Rosa del Rosa, made from the Nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo is also used in producing Barolo, a wine affectionately known as “the king of wines and the wine of kings.” The Rosa del Rosa 2022 has a beautiful balance of acidity and dryness, as well as fruitiness and minerality. It is a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or tuna.
What about the Iberian Peninsula of Spain and Portugal? Sí, claro! Let’s start with the Bodegas Breca Rosé from the Calatayud DO in the Aragón region of central Spain. This wine is made from the Garnacha grape, which dominates the region. The color is medium pink, and the taste is fresh with aroma notes of bell pepper and red berries. The palate is dry, crisp, and bright, with notes of red raspberries and a pleasant stone minerality. It is a classic “rosé all day” wine and is perfect for seafood meals, a charcuterie snack, or an afternoon of sitting on the porch.
From Portugal comes a wonderful sparkling rosé: the São João Espumante Rosé Bruto. Sparkling rosé from Portugal? Sim! (That’s Portuguese for “yes.”) This wine is made of 60% Baga and 40% Touriga Naçional grapes grown less than 12 miles from the Atlantic coast. The palate is delicate, and persistent bubbles add to the silky, rich texture. You will taste bright acidity with notes of strawberry and red raspberry complemented by the minerality of white pepper and sea mist. This is my pick for your first porch party of the season.
I hope this article whets your appetite for the wine you are likely already seeing spring up in your favorite wine store. As we head toward summer, stop and smell the roses, and then open and enjoy the rosés! As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
