Drink Up
with David Setley
It’s May; it’s getting warmer, and Rosés are in full bloom! Rosé wines have had a resurgence of popularity in recent years, particularly during the warmer months. Based on current wine statistics reported by MDPI, an industry research journal, one of every ten bottles of wine sold world-wide is a rosé. You may be surprised to know that rosés are arguably more complicated to create than either white or red wines. Read on so that you will be in the know and ready to enjoy these pink-wine choices.
There are generally two ways that rosé wines are made: the blending method and the limited maceration method. The least common method is the blending method, which takes already fermented red and white wines and, as the name suggests, blends them to make what we visually recognize as a pink rosé wine. Interestingly, the blending method is forbidden by most European wine-regulating organizations if the winemaker wishes for their rosé to be regionally certified. The exception is the Champagne region of France where the blending method is quite common. There are no regulations prohibiting the blending method in the majority of new world wine regions, however, most rosés that we enjoy are produced using the limited maceration method.
In red wine production, maceration is when grape skins, seeds, and possibly stems are allowed to remain in contact with the grape juice after crushing. The maceration period varies depending on the grape varietal, the requirements and traditions of the wine region, the level of tannins desired, and the length of aging desired by the winemaker. It can be as little as four days, as long as fifty days, or even longer in some extended-maceration styles of wine such as Barolos. In white wine production, the skins are removed immediately after crushing. In the case of rosé wines, the winemaker allows the skins to remain in contact with the juice for a limited time, often anywhere from a couple hours to a day or two. The result is the pink hue that we know and love. As you have likely noticed, some rosés are a darker pink while others are quite pale. This variation may be attributed to the length of the maceration and the varietal of red grapes used in skin contact.
Although rosé wines are produced in almost every wine country in the world, I’d like to primarily address “old world” rosés. France continues to be the dominate producer, with a market share in excess of 60%. Many French wine regions produce rosés, with Provence being the clear leader. Rosés from Provence tend to a made from a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah and a few other lesser-known varietals. Provence-style rosés are typically very light in both color and flavor. Whispering Angel and Miraval are two very popular examples, and both quite good. However, my choice from this region is the Commanderie de la Bargemone Rosé 2022. Bargemone is among the foremost producers of dry rosé in the Provence region. This wine is very reasonably priced and has the classic crisp, fresh aroma and flavor of red berries and flowers. It pairs perfectly with charcuterie, chicken and seafood. I also love this rosé with sushi or spicier Indian or Chinese foods.
Italy is also exceptional in the world of rosés. From the Piedmonte region in the north comes the Proprieta’ Sperino Rosa del Rosa 2022, made from the Nebbiolo grape. Nebbiolo is also used in producing Barolo, a wine affectionately known as “the King of wines and the wine of Kings.” The Rosa del Rosa 2022 has a beautiful balance of acidity and dryness, as well as fruitiness and minerality. It is a perfect pairing for grilled salmon or tuna.
For a bottle from Spain, the Lobetia Rosé from the Tierra De Castilla is not only certified organic, biodynamically-farmed, and vegan-friendly, but it is the first wine on which I saw a “Carbon Conscious” certification on the label. This certification is awarded to businesses who strategically adopt practices to maximize environmental responsibility. The Lobetia Rosé wine is made from the wonderful Spanish Garnacha grape. It is a classic “rosé all day,” wine and is perfect for seafood meals, a charcuterie snack, or an afternoon of simply sitting on the porch (I speak from experience!).
As a last stop in this particular article, visit the Greek wine section. Greece, the birthplace of wine in western Europe, offers L’ Esprit Du Lac Vielles Vignes 2022, a graceful, yet intensely flavorful rosé. The Greek indigenous Xinomavro grape gives this wine its beautiful color and floral aroma. It is an elegant rosé, perfect for your finest vegetarian, chicken or seafood dinner.
I hope this article whets your appetite for the wine you are likely already seeing springing up more and more in your favorite wine store. As we head toward summer, I encourage you to stop and smell the roses, and then open and enjoy the rosés! As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
