Life is What Happens
By Lisa Zaslow Segelman
Our local’s summer is nearing its end as sweaters and jackets are close at hand. Still, it’s that time of year when most of our beachcombing guests are gone and we’re free to enjoy any remaining days that are warm and windless enough for the beach, ample parking and those beautiful yellow flowers that grow on the dunes.
Still, there is a chill in the air and my French onion soup crocks beckon. Even if you’re not ready to go all-in on fall, the soup part of French onion soup can be frozen now for Thanksgiving.
Making this soup authentically is at least a three-step process (make the broth, caramelize the onions, prepare the cheesy garlic toasts), but this is a case of the fewer corners you cut, the better the results.
My love affair with this soup started in the 1980s with dinners out with my parents at the wildly popular HA Winston restaurants. Sometimes we would just order French onion soup and split a sandwich. The cheese would stick to the sides of the crock. Once the soup and floating Gruyere-covered garlic toast were consumed, you still had the opportunity to scrape those last bits of baked-on heaven from the side of the crock.
French onion soup has its origins in antiquity with the ancient Greeks and the Romans. They are said to have made a broth with chunks of onion, but the version we all know and love comes from the bistros and restaurants of Paris in the 18th century.
There are two main origin stories for the soup, and both include King Louis XV. The first tells of him returning from a hunting trip where he found his cupboards at the lodge empty except for some onions, butter and champagne. With the help of his great aunt, who was a lodge guest, they threw it all in a pot and the result was delicious.
The second story traces the recipe to La Pomme d’Or Hotel in Grand Est, France, which was the birthplace of Nicolas Appert, the inventor of canning. The story has it that Nicolas was working at the hotel on the night that the Duke of Lorraine, Stanislas Leszczynski, who was also the ex-king of Poland, stopped on the way to the Palace of Versailles to visit his daughter, Queen Marie, who was also the wife of Louis the XV.
He fell in love with the soup and spent the rest of the evening in the kitchen watching Appert dice scores of onions. He took the recipe to the Palace of Versailles, introduced it to his daughter and the king and the comforting, delicious soup recipe spread to Paris from there.
Regardless of where it came from, it’s not going anywhere except maybe the crocks in your kitchen!
Comfy, Cozy French Onion Soup
Ingredients
- 8 cups yellow onions, sliced thin
- 6 tbs butter
- 2 t. canola oil
- 8 slices French or sourdough bread
- 1 tsp. kosher salt
- ½ tsp. pepper
- ½ tsp. sugar
- 2 bay leaves
- 1½ cups dry white wine
- 1 cup white wine
- 8 cups beef stock, preferably homemade (see recipe below)
- 10 sprigs of thyme tied with twine
- 1 baguette sliced in 1-inch slices
- 3 garlic cloves cut in half lengthwise
- 8 oz. Gruyere, Jarlsberg, Emmental, or Swiss
- 6 tsp. sherry (Manzanilla or Fino preferred)
Method
Slice the onions lengthwise and then in thin slices. I use a mandolin which saves a lot of time as long as you’re careful. They can be dangerous if not used properly. Read package instructions.
Melt 4 tbs. butter and 2 t. canola oil in a Dutch oven or other large, heavy-bottomed skillet. A large skillet is important to get the onions to caramelize. Add the onions and cook over low heat for 20 minutes, stirring every now and then.
Add the salt, pepper and sugar, and cook on very low for about 45 minutes, more until the onions are soft and caramelized. They should be a rich golden color; no white should remain. If using a skillet for the onions, you may want to transfer them to a soup pot at this point. Tilt the pan or pot as you go along to remove any water from the onions with a large spoon.
Add the wine, bring to a boil uncovered until all the liquid has evaporated, 8-10 minutes. Tie the thyme and bay leaves with twine and add the herb bundle and the beef broth (homemade or good quality) to the pan with the onions. Bring to a boil and then simmer uncovered for 20-30 minutes until the broth thickens. Remove from heat and whisk in the remaining 2 tbs butter. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
Make the Garlic Gruyere Toasts
- With a serrated knife, cut the bread into 1-inch slices. Rub each toast with a clove of garlic and broil in the oven on low for 2-3 minutes until golden brown. Take out and set aside.
- When you’re ready to serve the soup, preheat the broiler. Arrange the baguette slices on a baking sheet in a single layer. Sprinkle the slices with the Gruyere or cheese of choice and broil on low until bubbly and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes.
- Ladle the soup in bowls and float several of the Gruyere croutons on top.
Alternative Method:
Ladle the soup into bowls, top each with 2 slices of bread and top with cheese. Put the bowls into the oven to toast the bread and melt the cheese. Be careful removing the crocks from the oven with this method as they will get very hot and can be heavy. Use good potholders!
Homemade Beef Broth
Ingredients
- 4 lbs. meaty beef soup bones (beef shanks or short ribs)
- 1 lb. oxtail meat if available
- 2 medium onions, quartered
- 3 chopped medium carrots, optional
- 3 chopped celery ribs, optional
- ½ cup warm water
- ½ teaspoon salt
- 3 bay leaves
- 3 garlic cloves, peeled
- 8 to 10 whole peppercorns
- Cold water
Method
Preheat oven to 425 degrees. In a large roasting pan lined with foil or parchment, roast the beef bones, oxtail, onions, carrots and celery uncovered for 30 minutes. Roast until bones and vegetables are dark brown, 30 minutes longer; drain off any fat.
Transfer bones, oxtail and vegetables to a large stockpot. Add ¾ cup warm water to roasting pan; stir to loosen browned bits and transfer the bits and the pan juices to pot. Add cold water to cover the bones and vegetables, then add the seasonings. Bring to a boil. This should take about 30 minutes. Reduce heat. Simmer, covered, with lid slightly ajar, 8-24 hours, skimming any foam that develops. If necessary, add water to keep ingredients covered. You can also cook in a slow cooker or instant pot on low for up to 24 hours.
Remove beef bones; cool. Strain broth through a fine sieve or cheesecloth-lined colander placed over a bowl. Throw away the vegetables and seasonings. Skim fat if using the broth right away (an inexpensive fat separator cup is a good idea to have) or refrigerate for a few hours or overnight to easily remove fat which can be saved or frozen for use in other recipes.
The broth itself can also be frozen in ice cube trays to add to other dishes if there’s any left over from the French onion soup.
Lisa is an advertising copywriter (think ‘Madmen’ without the men), journalist and columnist. Claim to fame: Lou’s waitress for four teenage summers. For column comments, story ideas, or to get on her “quote” list for future columns: redshoeslzs@gmail.com
