Drink up!
By David Setley
I am often asked what I consider to be my favorite wine…a question that might as well be asking who my favorite child is. OK, not quite! Still, this is not an easy question, as it depends on the weather, what I’m eating, who I’m with, where I am, etc. Rather than naming a specific wine, I typically respond by saying that if I were only allowed to drink one varietal for the rest of my life, I would choose Pinot Noir. Apparently, I am not alone in this selection; a survey conducted earlier this year indicates that, although Cabernet Sauvignon is the top pick among American wine drinkers, Pinot Noir is the runner-up. Given that August 18th was International Pinot Noir Day, allow me to share more about this noble grape.
In wine-speak, noble grapes have international recognition and are planted and used in winemaking throughout the world. There are six long-standing noble grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Riesling. As the world of wine has expanded, some sources indicate the number has increased to nine grapes by adding Syrah, Grenache, and Sangiovese to the ranks. Wine Folly has even added nine more grapes to its list. One thing is for sure, though: Pinot Noir is on every list.
Another moniker given to Pinot Noir is The Heartbreak Grape because many find it to be very difficult to successfully grow. In fact, André Tchelistcheff, a legendary winemaker who immigrated to the U.S. from Europe, said “God made Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas the devil made Pinot Noir.” Yikes! Pinot Noir is notoriously thin-skinned, making it easily susceptible to disease, mildew, fungus, and the damaging effects of hail storms that often occur in the regions where this grape is grown. The thin skin is also what gives this wine a lighter color and lower tannin levels than many other reds. If you enjoy red wine but are sensitive to tannins, Pinot Noir may be a solution for you.
Pinot Noir has been on record since the first century and is currently grown and produced into wine in at least 25 countries around the globe. France and the United States produce the most wine from this grape; Germany, Argentina, and New Zealand also produce Pinot Noir, but in lesser quantities.
The Alsace and Loire Valley regions in France offer excellent Pinot Noir, though Burgundy, France is considered the home of the Pinot Noir grape. If it is a red wine from Burgundy, there is a 95% chance it is Pinot Noir (if it is white, there is a nearly equal chance that it is Chardonnay). The Côte d’Or subregion of Burgundy is where some of the most acclaimed Pinot Noir is produced. This subregion is comprised of the Côte de Nuits and the Côte de Beaune and all of their appellations. Some of these wines, such as the Domaine de la Romanee-Conti Grand Cru 2020, can cost in excess of $20,000! Don’t worry, there are many others within a much more reasonable price range.
A wonderful, and very reasonably priced Burgundy Pinot is the Vincent Girardin-Santenay Terre d’Enfance from the Côte de Beaune. This is a perfect demonstration of French Pinot Noir at its finest. It has the rich, ripe cherry fruit flavor blended with a forest-floor earthiness that makes the Pinot Noir varietal my favorite. I frequently recommend other Pinot Noirs from Burgundy or from other French regions as well. Try the Domaine-Maison Jessiaume-Bourgogne Rouge from Burgundy, the Les Fontanelles-Pinot Noir from the Languedoc, or the Domaine Valery Renaudat-Val de Loire Pinot Noir P’Tit Renaudat from the Loire Valley. You won’t be disappointed.
In the United States, California and Oregon monopolize the production of Pinot Noir. In California, many areas grow and produce this wine, including Napa, Sonoma, and Paso Robles. However, in my opinion, Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley, a region in the north-central Sonoma wine region, produces the best in the state. Oddly, the climate of the Russian River Valley is quite different from the climate of Burgundy, France. Burgundy has a Continental climate with warm summers and cold winters, whereas the Russian River Valley is Mediterranean with mild, wet winters. Despite this, the soil of the two regions is remarkably similar; both are comprised of stone, clay, and sand. Fog is a persistent characteristic in both regions as well, a weather phenomenon that is ideal for growing Pinot Noir. Fog prevents the grapes from overheating in the sun and allows them to mature well, developing the characteristic flavors and acidity that Pinot Noir is known for. From the Russian River Valley, try the Balletto Vineyards-Pinot Noir or their Balletto Vineyards-Pinot Noir BCD Single Vineyard. Or, you can’t go wrong with a bottle of the Juggernaut-Pinot Noir.
Pinot Noir is also often mentioned in the same breath as the Willamette Valley of Oregon. This famous wine region is located at virtually the same latitude as Burgundy and shares a very similar terroir. Both climates are Continental, and the soil composition is very similar. You may be interested to know that many Oregon wineries are at the forefront of organic and biodynamic wine production in the U.S. From the Willamette Valley, consider the Montinore Estates-Borealis Pinot Noir, the Montinore Estate-Reserve Pinot Noir, or the Bergstrom-Cumberland Reserve Pinot Noir. As the USA is new-world, you will find that California and Oregon wines are bolder in flavor than the old-world French wines. Try it for yourself – get a French, a Russian River Valley, and a Willamette Valley Pinot Noir and try all three side-by-side. Viva la difference!
I hope you enjoyed my deep dive into my favorite red varietal, Pinot Noir. It’s a versatile and delicious option! As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Pinot Noir Day and Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
