Drink up!
By David Setley
A long, long time ago on a beautiful starry night in a vineyard in Bordeaux, France, a handsome red grape named Cabernet Franc saw a beautiful white grape named Sauvignon Blanc (cue the music). It was love at first sight and history in the making. From their union came a new grape that would eventually travel through vineyards across continents to become one of the most recognized varietals the wine world has ever known: Cabernet Sauvignon.
For many years, it was assumed that the Cabernet Sauvignon grape was created by grafting Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon Blanc together, as in the romanticized story above. Its heritage was proved in 1997 when a plant geneticist from the University of California named Carole Meredith utilized DNA fingerprinting techniques. Wine historians have taken it a step further, determining that Bordeaux winemakers did indeed experiment with grapevine grafting in the 1600s, resulting in several varietals, including Cabernet Sauvignon.
In Bordeaux, red wine is traditionally blended. Blending has become so associated with the region that winemakers from other countries often refer to any blended red wine as a “Bordeaux-style blend.” In Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon is typically blended with Merlot, Malbec, Petite Verdot, and Cabernet Franc (hello again, Dad!). The French firmly believe that terroir﹘the combination of soil, climate, elevation, and winemaking traditions of the area﹘is everything. You may have heard of the Right and Left Banks of the Bordeaux region, created by the Garonne, Dordogne, and Gironde rivers dividing the region into two unique areas. The terroir of the Left Bank is perfect for growing Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas the Right Bank is ideal for Merlot.
Although some Bordeaux wines can be pricey, I have two reasonably-priced recommendations: the Château Turcaud-Bordeaux 2019 and the Cru Monplaisir-Bordeaux Supérieur 2020. Both are excellent examples of Cabernet Sauvignon and are wonderful demonstrations of the Bordeaux terroir. These wines are smooth with plenty of dark fruit flavor. Additionally, the tannins in both wines show a level of restraint reflecting the centuries of winemaking mastered across the region.
Outside of France, the United States is the home away from home for Cabernet Sauvignon, with California Cabs among the most famous. The Mediterranean climate of the Golden State is ideal for growing wine grapes. Though Napa Valley is generally more well-known, it is Sonoma and Paso Robles that are most recognized for Cabernet Sauvignon wines. Why? Terroir! The climate in these regions provides a long growing season, warm days, and cool nights that are perfect for growing this varietal. Two fantastic examples from Sonoma are the Decoy-Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 and the Rodney Strong-Cabernet Sauvignon Sonoma County 2019. From Paso Robles, try the Daou Vineyards-Cabernet Sauvignon Special Select 2022 or the Justin-Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. Although the names of these wines mention only Cabernet Sauvignon, each has other varietals blended in. In fact, Daou Vineyards describes their Cabernet Sauvignon Special Select as “Bordeaux inspired,” referencing the blending technique associated with the region.
Taking a quick detour around the world, try the Penfolds-Max’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 from Australia. I know – that detour probably seems a bit extreme. However, the South Australia wine region has a Mediterranean climate that is quite similar to California, allowing Cabernet Sauvignon to find a home there as well. Ah, terroir. See the connection?
Back to the United States: California isn’t the only successful producer of Cabernet Sauvignon. The maritime climate in Washington state provides moderate year-round temperatures that allow Cabernet Sauvignon wines to be produced quite successfully. Try the Intrinsic-Cabernet Sauvignon 2018. It’s delicious!
This late in the article, you might be asking why Cabernet Sauvignon is so popular, particularly in the United States. According to a survey published earlier this month, American wine drinkers tend to prefer red wines, with 49% of respondents choosing red, 36% opting for white, and the remaining responders choosing rosé or reporting no preference. Cabernet Sauvignon was the top pick among all wines, followed by Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Zinfandel. This favoritism could be confirmation that Cabernet Sauvignon has a flavor and texture well-suited to the American palate. Cabs are dry and full-bodied, with smooth, rich tannins and the robust flavors of dark fruit with notes of wood. This profile pairs well with foods many Americans favor, including steak, barbecued meats, hamburgers, lamb, pizza, Italian foods with red sauce, meatloaf, beef stews, Yankee pot roast, cheesesteak sandwiches, and so on. It is extremely food-friendly with the common American diet.
I hope you enjoyed this investigation into America’s most popular red wine. Invite a few friends over and grab a bottle from each of the countries or regions discussed to have your own tasting. Be sure to compare the impact of terroir! As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
