Drink Up! By David Setley
Introducing customers to new wines — either new to the store, or new to them — is one of the best aspects of my job. A few days ago, a gentleman asked for recommendations on any lesser-known wines that I thought he would enjoy. For this week’s article, I’ll share the suggestions I gave to him. Welcome to “The Grape Unknown.”
Rkatsiteli is one of the oldest wine grape varietals still in production. It is the most planted grape in the nation of Georgia, specifically in the Caucasus Mountains region between Eastern Europe and Asia. Archaeologists have identified Georgia as one of the world’s original birthplaces of wine production. Evidence shows that wine has been produced there since approximately 6,000 B.C. That’s over 8,000 years ago! To put this into perspective, the Phoenicians began wine production approximately 4,000 years ago, the Greeks began 3,000 years ago, and the Romans only got involved approximately 2,000 years ago. There are more vines of this varietal planted in the world than either Pinot Gris or Cabernet Franc, although many people are unfamiliar with the Rkatsiteli grape. My first introduction to Rkatsiteli wine was not one from Georgia, but rather from Dr. Konstantin Frank’s winery in the Finger Lakes of New York. It became an instant favorite when it was served at a tasting event. The host gave us an unforgettable suggestion on how to pronounce the wine, saying, “our cats on the telly.” Try it!
Rkatsiteli wines are traditionally produced as a skin-contact wine, resulting in an amber color and a richer aroma and flavor than is typically found in most whites. Rather than oak barrels or stainless-steel vats, this wine is fermented in qvevris, an egg-shaped, beeswax-lined terracotta vessel. It truly is a unique white wine. For a bottle straight from the source, I recommend the Glekhuri Qvevri Rkatsiteli 2022 from the Kakheti region of Georgia. It has aromas of guava, passion fruit and flavors of peach, pear, and lemon preserves with a rich, nutty finish. It pairs well with spices that you might find in an Indian or Armenian restaurant, or even with salad or seafoods.
My next “grape unknown” is another ancient grape from Georgia. Saperavi is the most widely planted red grape in that country. In the Georgian language, Saperavi means “the place of color.” This is likely because it is a rare teinturier grape whose pulp and skin are both red. Almost all red grapes have white pulp. The dry wine produced from this grape is dark ruby red in color and has the rich flavors of dark fruit, cherries, and plums with relatively high acidity and low tannins. Two great examples from Kakheti, Georgia, are the Dila-O Saperavi and the 8K Ancient Red, whose name is an homage to the 8,000 years of wine-making in the country. Both wines pair beautifully with roasted or grilled meat or vegetables.
Speaking of teinturier grapes, another grape unknown to many is Alicante Bouschet. Henri Bouschet was a 19th-century French viticulturist who became famous for his pioneering work in developing teinturier grape varieties. His objective was to enhance the color of red wines. His most enduring discovery was initially called the Henri Bouschet grape, but later became known as Alicante Bouschet. Although this grape did not catch on significantly in the Languedoc-Roussillon wine region of southern France, where Henri lived and worked, it later gained prominence in the southern Portuguese wine region of Alentejo. I am a big fan of the red wines from this region blended with Henri’s grape. Two outstanding examples are the Guarda Rios Red Blend and the Cartuxa Evora Colheita Tinto. These wines pair perfectly with roasted pork, lamb, or beef.
For another “unknown grape,” we go to the Italian island of Sardinia. In 2004, National Geographic explorer Dan Buettner investigated locations, now known as the Blue Zones, where people lived significantly longer and with greater health than the rest of the population. One of these locations is the island of Sardinia. Reasons for longevity in residents of Blue Zones include healthy eating, stress management, avoiding smoking and other risky substances, restorative sleep, and a sense of community. In his discussion of Sardinia, Buettner also mentioned the wine produced on the island: Cannonau di Sardegna. Although red wines, in moderation, are often discussed as part of a healthy diet, Cannonau is exceptionally high in antioxidants and has two to three times the “artery-scrubbing” flavonoids as other red wines. In his Blue Zone book, the author notes that in addition to the health qualities of Cannonau, the way that Sardinians consume the wine may be just as important. Sardinians drink Cannonau while surrounded by good friends and good food. So, get some friends or family together, make a good Mediterranean-style dinner, and enjoy the Cantina Santa Maria La Palma Le Bomarde Cannonau di Sardegna. I can’t guarantee that you will live to 100, but I am confident that you will enjoy this rich, dry Italian red and the memories made.
The final grape unknown comes from the Languedoc region of southern France. Picpoul de Pinet is both the name of the grape and the wine subregion where this grape is grown. Picpoul wine dates back to the first century B.C., when the Romans built a road connecting Italy to newly conquered regions of Spain. Even today, that road goes directly through this wine region. Vineyards in Picpoul de Pinet are planted on the banks of the Mediterranean Ocean. Traditionally, the bottles used for Picpoul wine are tall, slender, and made of green glass. The words “Picpoul de Pinet” are embossed, along with a cross, on the face of the bottle. Embossed waves are depicted on the bottle’s neck to reflect the region’s proximity to the sea. The name of the wine means “lip stinger” because of its high acidity. But don’t let that deter you; the acidity results in an incredibly refreshing wine! The aromas and flavors are very light and crisp, similar to a Sancerre, but with a distinct saline minerality that invokes the sea. Try the Cabrol Picpoul de Pinet. This is the perfect wine for oysters, but also pairs extremely well with cheese, salad, shrimp, lobster, and grilled fish.
If you, like me, are a wine adventurer, I hope you will give these wines a try. For more information, go to passionvine.com, or, as always, stop in to see me at the store or contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, keep exploring and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
