Drink Up!
“Tannins” is a wine term I am frequently asked to explain to folks who come into the store or to our wine tasting events. I’ve found that even wine enthusiasts who have enjoyed wine for many years find the term to be confusing. So, let’s take a deeper dive into the topic.
Scientifically speaking, tannins are a phenolic compound, which, according to sciencedirect.com, are among the most common chemicals found in many plants throughout the world. They are one of the most significant secondary metabolites (the most important components behind the health benefits and medicinal properties of the plants) and are largely responsible for the antioxidant attributed to many “superfoods,” including cacao (dark chocolate), blueberries, cranberries, blackberries, raspberries, pomegranates, grapes, legumes, walnuts and pecans. They are also abundant in tea (especially black and green tea) and coffee.
Tannins are present in the skins of wine grapes. After harvesting the grapes, the winemaking process continues with what is commonly called the crushing of the grapes. I know we all just had an image of Lucille Ball stomping grapes in a gigantic barrel in Italy, right? In modern winemaking, Lucille stays on the sidelines as crushing is accomplished by a machine that very gently squeezes the grapes enough to separate the juice, referred to as “must” in wine-speak, from the skins, seeds and stems, called “pomace.”
Fun wine fact: The overwhelming majority of wine grapes have clear juice, regardless of whether the grape itself is red or white. Without the skins having contact with the juice during fermentation, most wines would be white. In other words, if the winemaker’s goal is to produce a white wine, he or she removes the skins before the juice continues to ferment. The exceptions are grapes referred to as “teinturier grapes.”
Alicante bouschet, a grape from Portugal, is one such exception. See why this varietal is a favorite of mine by trying the Cartuxa Evora Tinto Reserva. This outstanding red wine from the Alentejo region of Portugal is 70% alicante bouschet and 30% aragonez and is, in my experience, the best example of a wine made from a teinturier grape.
If a red wine is the winemaker’s objective, the “must” and the “pomace” remain in contact during maceration. Simply stated, maceration is a soaking process where the tannins are gradually transferred from the skins to the juice. The juice will take on the color, the flavor and the antioxidant qualities discussed above. The duration of maceration depends on how tannic the winemaker wants the wine to be. For most red wines, maceration can be as short as a week or two, and as long as a month or so. As you may have guessed, rosé wine is accomplished by allowing the skins to macerate for a very short time in the juice, resulting in the familiar pink color. In general, the longer the skins have contact with the juice, the higher the concentration of tannins. The thickness of the grape skin can also play a part in this. It is all part of the science and artistry of winemaking.
In addition to color, tannins affect wine by adding to the flavor and mouthfeel of the wine. Prior to fermentation, wine grape juice is sweet. In fermentation, yeast consumes much of the sugar and turns it into alcohol and carbon dioxide. The sugar that remains is called residual sugar and is a major determinant in how sweet or dry the wine is. Tannins have a slightly bitter taste that, together with remaining residual sugar, adds to the complexity of red wine. Bitterness may not sound appealing, but think of how tea, coffee and dark chocolate have significant bitter components but are still considered delicious. It is the same for wines.
Finally, tannins give wine an astringent effect, commonly referred to as dryness. As mentioned, tannins are a phenolic compound, which binds proteins. The saliva on your tongue and in your mouth is full of proteins that the tannins bind, making your tongue, gums and palate feel dry. This is why high-tannin wines pair well with red meats. The tannic effect counters the fattiness of the meat.
If you would like to experience the tannic effect of wine for yourself, buy a bottle of pinot noir (a relatively low-tannin red wine), a bottle of cabernet sauvignon (a relatively high-tannin wine), and a bottle of syrah. Two pinot noir options to consider would be the Domaine Valéry Le P’tit Renaudat from France or the Bellande Pinot Noir from Oregon.
For the cabernet sauvignon, grab a Cab-based blend from Bordeaux, such as the Chateau Kirwan Private Reserve from Margaux, France or the Joel Gott 815 cabernet sauvignon from California. For syrah, try the Truchard – Syrah from Napa Valley, California. Pour a tasting of each and observe them side-by-side. Notice the variations in darkness and opacity of the wine from the least to the most tannic. Take a couple sips of each in order of least tannic (pinot noir) to most tannic (syrah) and notice the increased astringent/drying effect of the more tannic wines. In addition, you may notice that the flavor profile of the more tannic wines, the cabernet sauvignon and the syrah, are more complex than the pinot noir. And, of course, enjoy the wine!
Some wine enthusiasts enjoy more tannic wines while others prefer less tannic wines. The choice is up to you. There is a wine for everyone’s palate.
Do tannins cause headaches? According to Harvard Health Publishing Online, maybe, for those who are particularly sensitive to tannins, but for the majority, no. The likely suspect for most is the alcohol. Alcohol can cause blood vessels to dilate, thus causing headaches. If you are someone who gets headaches when drinking red wine, drink a glass of water for each glass of wine to help alleviate the problem.
I hope this short discussion has given you a bit more understanding of tannins. As always, if you have questions or comments, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
