Drink Up!
Did you know that Greece preceded most of Europe — including Italy, France, Germany, and Spain — in becoming a producer of wine? Yet Greek wine is rarely mentioned by wine enthusiasts. Even in my sommelier education, Greek wines were mainly discussed for the historical perspective. Many folks stopping into the store this summer shared their travels with me, and Greece is a destination frequently mentioned. In response, I investigated Greek wines and would like to share what I discovered. I hope you find it as interesting as I did!
The earliest evidence of grapes being used to make wine was discovered in Transcaucasia, a Middle Eastern region that encompasses the modern-day country of Georgia. Archaeologists dated these findings to approximately 6,000 B.C.E., indicating that wine has been made from grapes for over 8,000 years. Wine has been linked to Greece since around 4,500 B.C.E. For centuries, Greece was the dominant producer of wine and viticulture. They had many trading partners, including the Phoenicians, who spread viticulture throughout the known world of the time, including all the way to Portugal. Additionally, it was the Greeks who brought vineyard agriculture and wine production practices to the Roman Empire. They recognized the outstanding soil, climate, and environment – what we now call terroir – and, around 4,000 BCE, expanded wine grape production to what we now know as Italy. The Greeks called Italy “Oenotria,” meaning the “land of staked vines,” because they staked vines to produce a higher quantity and better quality of grapes. On the other hand, in Greece, grape vines were basket-shaped bushes, cultivated tightly and low to the ground to prevent damage from harsh winds.
Greece produced and traded good wine until the industry was undermined by war. The Ottoman Turks invaded and conquered Constantinople in 1453. Under Ottoman rule, consuming wine was forbidden, forcing the wine industry in Greece to become nearly extinct. They ruled over Greece until 1821, when the Greeks won independence after a 9-year war. However, even after their victory, Greece struggled to rebuild the infrastructure of the country. It wasn’t until the 1970s that a handful of entrepreneurial winemakers decided to resurrect the wine industry. Today, over 80% of wineries in Greece are less than 20 years old. Ironically, though Greece was among the earliest to produce and trade wine, the Greek wine industry known today is among the youngest in the world.
There are several classic varietals of Greek wines. Assyrtiko, pronounced “ah-seer-teeko,” is known as the queen of Greek grapes. It is indigenous to the island of Santorini and is produced into a white wine that is fermented and aged in stainless steel. Assyrtiko is refreshing and crisp with a notable acidity and a flavor profile of lime with notes of lemon, passion fruit, and honey. There is a noticeable minerality of flint rock and salinity. Try the Stamnaki Peloponnese Assyrtiko for a lovely and affordable example. This very dry white wine is produced with 100% Assyrtiko grapes. It pairs exceptionally well with shellfish, seafood, and salad courses, especially Greek salads (obviously). Or, a great splurge-worthy wine of this varietal is the Domaine Sigalas Santorini Assyrtiko.
Another white varietal is Mochofilero (moosh-ko-fee-lair-oh) from the Mantinia region. Try the Bairaktaris, Mantinia Moscholotios. This is a very dry, light-colored white with the floral aroma of lemon flowers and rose petals. It has a high acidity but is surprisingly medium-full bodied. You will pick up flavors of melon and pink grapefruit with notes of almond. This wine pairs well with grilled calamari, sushi, and oysters, as well as the Greek dishes of spanakopita and grilled chicken souvlaki.
Another very nice white wine from Greece is the Mylonas Retsina. Mylonas Winery is a third-generation boutique winery located 30 miles south of Athens. They farm traditionally Greek grape varieties, respecting the terroir. Mylonas’ philosophy is based on minimum intervention from the vineyard to the bottling. This Retsina is made from 100% Savatiano grapes and features the aroma and flavors of white peaches, mango, lemon and herbs. This refreshing dry wine pairs beautifully with shrimp, sushi, cheese platters and salads.
Greece is not known exclusively for white wines. The Bairaktaris, Namea Monolithos Dry Red is made from the Agiorgitiko (ah-your-yeek-tee-ko) grape, grown in the Namea region. This very dry red wine has aromas and flavors of cherry, raspberry, and blackberry, with notes of black pepper and baking spices. I highly recommend this Greek red if you love Pinot Noir. There is a nice acidity that makes it very food-friendly. Pair it with roasted meats and poultry, or with Greek specialties, such as Moussaka.
Arguably, the most significant red grape of the Naoussa region of Greece is Xinomavro. The profile of the wines made from this grape is often compared to Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France or Barbera from the Piedmont of Italy. The Kokkinos Xinomavro is a great example of this traditional Greek varietal. This dry red has notes of red raspberries and cherries with tobacco leaf, leather, and oak. Kokkinos selects its best grapes from over 35-year-old vines and ages the wine in mostly French oak barrels for five years, plus another year in the bottle. It pairs well with lamb or other grilled meats and vegetables, as well as with dishes that feature mushrooms such as mushroom youvetsi (also known as giouvetsi).
Though I am not Greek, this research struck a few chords with me. I grew up in a suburb of Reading, Pennsylvania, close to where a very famous gentleman of Greek descent lived much of his life: Gus Efstratiou, but you would better know him as Michael Constantine, the actor who portrayed the father in the “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” films. Michael passed away in 2021 at the age of 94. Though I did not know him well, I frequently saw him walking to the Shillington Restaurant for breakfast or attending concerts at the Reading Symphony Orchestra. I was also friends with the owner of a very popular Greek diner in Shillington, Pennsylvania: John “Yanni” Frangakis, who was born on the Greek island of Chios. Yanni introduced me to some of the wonderful cuisines of Greece.
I hope you enjoyed this article and will consider expanding your wine palate by exploring Greek wines. As always, if you have questions, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, “opa” and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
