Drink Up!
By David Setley
I spent the past two articles recounting my recent travels in the Champagne and Loire Valley regions of France. This week, allow me to conclude my travel log with the Bordeaux wine region. Arguably among the most renowned wine regions in the world, Bordeaux is home to many of the most famous grape varietals. The city of Bordeaux, for which the wine region is named, is located on the Garonne River. We enjoyed several days in and around Bordeaux during the river cruise portion of our vacation and, as you can imagine, absolutely loved it.
Winemaking in Bordeaux began in the first century B.C. under the rule of the Roman Empire. The soil and climate of the area were perfect for cultivating vines, and the river provided a convenient channel for transporting the finished wine. After the fall of the Roman Empire, wine exports unfortunately dried up until the 12th century. It was around then that Elinore of Aquitaine, who was the queen of France and formerly the wife to King Louis VII, married Henry II of England, thus becoming the queen of England. Aquitaine, an area that included what is now known as France’s Bordeaux region, fell under the rule of the English. Henry II and Elinor had a son – Richard I, aka, Richard the Lionhearted – who moved his base of operations near Bordeaux when he came into power. It can be quite confusing to track European history, especially when modern-day countries fell under the rule of other monarchies for a time. Suffice it to say that the 12th century began the first golden age of the Bordeaux wine industry, with England being the principal recipient of the region’s exported wine.
In the 13th century, the appellations of Graves, Entre-Deux-Mers, Saint-Émilion, and Blaye came into prominence for their distinctive wines. However, Bordeaux’s wine industry again came to a halt due to the Hundred Years War (ironically fought between 1337 and 1453) between England and France. It was revived once more when Dutch traders became interested in the wine trade in the 17th century and drained the marshlands in what is now known as the Medoc to plant vines. That revival prompted a second golden age for Bordeaux wines that is still in effect today.
Historically, more than 70% of wines from the Bordeaux region were not bottled at the vineyards. Instead, negociants, a French term for wine merchant, had near-full control of the wine market. Winemakers would float their wine to buildings owned by negociants near the port of Bordeaux. Those negociants would then blend, bottle, and label the wine with their name on it rather than the name of the vineyard or winemaker. Unfortunately, negociants did not always act in the best interest of the vineyard owners and were often accused of having shady operations. Nonetheless, those merchants are largely responsible for raising the notoriety of Bordeaux wines throughout the world.
The terroir of Bordeaux yields five well-known red grapes: Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, and Malbec. Generally speaking, each of the 53 wine appellations of the region is dominated by one of the five grapes, with one or more of the other four grown in smaller amounts. The appellations are bisected by the Garonne and Dordogne Rivers, creating what the wine world often refers to as the Left Bank and the Right Bank of Bordeaux. As you can imagine, the terroir of each bank is quite different. The soil on the right is more clay-based and fertile, whereas the left is gravel-based and relatively devoid of nutrients. Cabernet Sauvignon thrives in the nutrient-poor gravelly soil of the Left Bank, while Merlot craves the nutrient-rich clay of the Right Bank. So…you guessed it! If you are looking at a Cabernet Sauvignon from Bordeaux, you are looking at a Left Bank wine. If someone asks for your thoughts on wine from the Right Bank, you know they’re likely talking about a Merlot.
You may be familiar with the Cru classification system for Bordeaux wines. “Cru” means growth in French wine terminology; the Cru classification is the commonly known system for the Medoc Classification system established by Napoleon III in 1855 for the wines of Bordeaux. The Cru classification is only for red wines from Bordeaux and established a ranking from First Cru to Fifth Cru, based on the significance of each winery. Though the system has been criticized since its creation, accused of being based on price rather than quality and stubbornly resistant to change, it is still used today.
The highest-ranking wines are known as the Premiere Grand Cru Classe’ A (5 wineries), followed by Classe’ B (14 wineries). Grand Cru Third Growth (14 wineries) is next, followed by Fourth Growth (10 wineries) and Fifth Growth (18 wineries). A Chateau Lafite Rothschild Premiere Grand Cru Classe’ Bordeaux red can cost in excess of $1,000. That is way above the price point of my typical recommendations! You certainly do not have to spend that much to enjoy a fabulous Bordeaux.
Saint-Émilion is one of the most coveted wine appellations on Bordeaux’s Right Bank. The Chateau Haut-Segottes Saint- Émilion Grand Cru Bordeaux wine is a fantastic, and affordable, wine. It is a blended red wine made mostly of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon. It is beautifully balanced and dry with fruity notes of dark cherries and earthy notes of tobacco leaf, peppercorn, and soil.
Compare that to the Chateau Barreyres-La Griffe de Barreyres Haut-Medoc 2018. The Haut-Medoc is a premiere appellation of the Left Bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon takes center stage with Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot providing supportive roles. The red fruit flavors of this wine are less dominant, with the earthiness of cedar, graphite, and baking spices taking the lead. Pour a glass of each for a comparison between the two Banks. You’re sure to notice the difference in color and taste that comes from each subregion’s spectacular terroir.
I hope you enjoyed learning about the history and terroir of Bordeaux this week. Writing these last few articles has been a wonderful way for me to relive my trip, while bringing some of it back to New Jersey for you. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store to talk wine. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
