Drink Up!
A friend stopped at the wine bar this week to celebrate the holidays with a flight of wines. While selecting from the menu, she commented on her general preference for European wines over those from California. As she enjoyed her flight, we discussed the differences between “Old World” and “New World” wines. This article explores the topic further and provides a few recommendations that highlight the differences.
Old World wines are those produced in countries where winemaking was initially born and raised. Archaeologists determined that the earliest evidence of wine making occurred over 9,000 years ago in the Transcaucasia area of the Middle East, near the Caucasus Mountain range. This is roughly in the modern-day country of Georgia, near the Black Sea. The Phoenicians became the first people to actively trade wine to countries throughout the Mediterranean Sea from their home area of what is now Lebanon, Israel, and Syria. The Greeks then became the dominant wine merchants of the world, until the rise of the Roman Empire, when Italy, France, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria, and others began making wine. All of these Western European countries, in addition to Hungary, Croatia, England, and others, are considered the “Old World” in wine terms. By default, all other winemaking countries, including the United States, Argentina, Chile, South Africa, Australia, New Zealand, etc., are considered “New World.”
Geography is certainly interesting, but what does it mean to you or me as we shop for a bottle of wine? Each country, each region of that country, and each subregion within that region has a unique terroir. Terroir explains how the soil, climate, terrain, and winemaking traditions of various geographic locations are reflected in the wine in your glass. Think about Southern New Jersey, for instance. A local weatherman, Nick Pittman, uses the phrase “Cape May Bubble” to describe why Mays Landing may experience morning temperatures that are 10 degrees cooler and afternoon temperatures that are 10 degrees warmer than Ocean City, even though the two are merely 15 miles apart. Why? Location, location, location! In wine, climate, differences in soil composition, proximity to large masses of water, and elevation can make significant differences to wine grapes as they grow and mature.
Now let’s talk about three significant taste differences between Old World and New World wines. First, Old World wines tend to be lighter-bodied than New World wines. Keep in mind that the winemaking traditions of a country or region are part of terroir. In Old World countries, such as France, winemaking traditions have evolved over a millennium. One such tradition is to produce wines with lower alcohol content and tannins. In New World countries, like the United States, most traditions have only evolved over a couple of centuries. New World consumers largely desired bold, fuller-bodied wines with more tannins and higher alcohol. Let’s take Pinot Noir as an example. Maison Jessiaume Bourgogne Pinot Noir from Burgundy, France (Old-World) and the Bellande Willamette Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley of Oregon (New-World) are both excellent wines of the same varietal. If you pour a glass of each and observe them side-by-side, however, you will notice that the color of the French wine is lighter and the aroma is less intense. The wine legs on the Oregon wine are more pronounced, indicating more body and higher alcohol. Indeed, the alcohol content of the French wine is 13% versus 13.5% for the Oregon wine. It may not seem significant, but it is certainly noticeable.
The second significant difference between Old and New-World wines is that New-World wines tend to be more fruit-forward. Almost all wines have a fruit component to their flavor profile, but Old-World wine tends to be less intense in fruit flavor and have greater levels of earthiness or minerality. Continuing with the Pinot Noir example, you would notice that the Ballande’s flavor is dominated more by the cherry flavor, whereas the French wine is dominated more by earthy, forest floor, and mushroom notes. Let’s look at a second example with Sauvignon Blanc. Two great examples are the New Zealand (New-World) Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc and the French (Old-World) Roc de l’Abbaye Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire Valley. As you pour a glass of each, you will notice a more pronounced aroma of citrus, specifically grapefruit, in the New Zealand wine. In the French wine, the fruit aroma is less pronounced. When you taste the wines, the Old-World, French wine is less fruity with notes of wet stones and fresh grass; the New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is dominated by citrus flavors.
The third significant difference is that Old-World wines tend to be less bold in flavor and aroma, but more astringent in mouthfeel. To illustrate these differences, take an Old-World French Bordeaux, such as the Chateau Kirwin Private Reserve Margaux, and compare it to the Baby Blue from Bluerock Vineyards in the Alexander Valley of Sonoma, California. Both are red blends of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and other red grapes. Pour a glass of each and notice that both wines are rich and relatively full-bodied. You’ll then notice that the Bordeaux (Old-World) is less fruit-forward in both aroma and taste than the Baby Blue (New-World). Take a second sip and observe that the Old-World wine has a much drier mouthfeel than the New World wine. In addition, notice the restraint of the aroma and flavor of the Bordeaux wine. The California red blend is much bolder.
Although my friend preferred Old-World wines, that may not be your taste. Many wine enthusiasts prefer the New-World more fruit-forward, more intense, fuller-bodied, and less astringent approach to winemaking. Others prefer the more restrained, more earthy, and more astringent Old-World style. I hope this article prompts you to have your own wine tasting to compare an Old-World wine against a New-World wine. The exercise is simply about detecting and respecting what is different. It is not about one being better or worse, although the comparison may help you to determine your personal preferences! Vive la différence! As always, if you have questions or would like more examples to compare, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
