Drink Up!
By David Setley
Few things sound better than a month-long wine tour of Italy. For the next four weeks, I plan to be your tour guide, entertaining you with stories of the regions and wines of Italy and providing recommendations for you to enjoy. Let’s start in the northwest region of Piemonte, aka, the Piedmont!
The Piemonte region is located in the foothills of the Alps in the northwestern corner of Italy near the borders of Switzerland and France. Though much of Italy has a warm Mediterranean climate, this region is notably cooler, with a Continental climate similar to Burgundy, France. Vineyards in the region are commonly planted on the slopes of hills at elevations of 500-1200 feet. Almost 90% of winemaking occurs in the southernmost portion of the region, near the towns of Alba, Asti, and Alessandria. Winemaking in Piemonte is centuries old and dates to the Roman Empire.
The dominant grape of the Piedmont, Nebbiolo, derives its name from a notable weather feature of the region. Nebbiolo is derived from “nebbia”, meaning fog. Although the Alps to the north shield the region from rain, fog created by cool air to the north and much warmer air to the south is common. Fog may not be enjoyable to us, but it is certainly excellent for growing Nebbiolo! The Piedmont appellation most known for Nebbiolo is Langhe, located in the far southern section of the region. Langhe’s unique location makes for very cold and snowy winters, but very warm summers, allowing for a long growing season.
Nebbiolo wines feature fruit notes of cherry, plum, and strawberry with earthy tones of leather, licorice, and herbs. Excellent examples are the G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo 2022 and the Pio Cesare Langhe Nebbiolo 2020. Pio Cesare was founded in 1881 by the man for whom the winery is named. The winery is in its fifth generation of family winemakers and continues to set the bar for quality in the region. The structured tannins and the relatively high acidity of Nebbiolo wine pair well with meat dishes, charcuterie, and roasted vegetables.
A friend and long-time restaurant owner, Joe Massaglia, was born in Piemonte. He would often ask, “David, what is the king of wines and the wine of kings?” There was only one acceptable answer: “Barolo!” Barolo, like Langhe, is a subregion of Piemonte. Barolo wines are produced to meet the requirements of Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG). In addition to being made of 100% Nebbiolo grapes grown in the Barolo DOCG, the wines must be aged a minimum of 3 years, or in the case of Reserva, 5 years, before release. Barolo wines can be very expensive, but a reasonably priced recommendation is Fratelli Revello – Barolo 2019. The Fratelli has beautiful aromatics of dark fruit, baking spices, and leather. The palate is soft, with well-structured tannins and notes of sweet spices, leather, and dark plum and cherry fruits. This is a wonderful wine that pairs perfectly with any Italian fare, but most beautifully with mushroom risotto or any dish with truffles or truffle oil.
A close cousin of Barolo DOCG is Barbaresco DOCG. Although both wines are made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes, the difference between the two is attributed to terroir. The soil in the Barbaresco DOCG has higher nutritional content than Barolo, which produces a grape/wine with more fruit-forward aromatics and taste with less pronounced tannins. Additionally, the aging requirements for a Barbaresco are less, only 2 years or 3 years for Reserva. Some people consider Barbaresco to be the lesser cousin, but I disagree. Both are quality wines, just different. The lighter tannins and fruitier palate make Barbaresco wines very friendly with diverse foods, including lamb, duck, chicken, pork, salmon, tuna, and vegetables. A great Barbaresco to try is the Fontanabianca-Barbaresco 2020.
Piedmont is sometimes called the land of the 3 Bs. That is Barolo, Barbaresco, and the third: Barbera. Unlike the first two, Barbera is a grape, not an appellation, that grows in numerous locations, most of which are in the Piedmont region. The wines made from Barbera are lighter-bodied with less tannins and a slightly higher acidity. If you like Pinot Noir, you will very likely enjoy Barbera. Two famous Piemonte locations where this wine is produced are the areas around the towns of Alba and Asti. I would recommend the Mauro Molino-Barbera D’Alba 2022, or the Roberto Ferraris-Barbera d’Asti 2022. Both are very reasonably priced and pair well with tomato-based pasta meals, smoked meats, pizza, risotto, and anything with mushrooms.
There are a few white wines that Piemonte is famous for as well that you should become acquainted with. Arneis is a grape grown in the Roero DOCG of Piedmont. The soil there is much sandier, giving Arneis beautiful fruity notes of peaches and pears. This medium-bodied dry white wine is a wine for all occasions. If you are craving a white wine with more body but without the buttery or oaky notes of Chardonnay, Arneis may be your new best friend. Try the Malvira–Roero Arneis 2022. It’s outstanding with pesto or alfredo sauces, fish, shellfish, cheese, smoked meats, vegetables, or salads.
Space prohibits covering every wine of the region, but I will mention that if you enjoy sweeter wines, look to the Piedmont. Moscato d’Asti is a lightly effervescent white from the region, and Brachetto is its light red cousin. Bartenura makes a great example of both of these lightly sweet and refreshing wines. For dry rosé fans, the Proprieta Sperino-Rosa del Rosa 2022 is Piemonte’s outstanding contribution.
I hope you enjoyed the first week of our Italian Wine Tour. If the history and wines of Italy interest you, I invite you to join me at Passion Vines for our three-week Wine Foundations: Italy class in September. Details can be found on our events webpage. As always, contact me with any questions or stop in the store. Until next time, arrivederci and Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
