My Love of Steak
By Chef Joe Massaglia
Anyone who knows me, or listens to my radio show, Joe’s Table for Two, knows I’ve never met a steak I didn’t like! And I especially like the prime, dry-aged steaks at world-famous Peter Luger Steakhouse in Brooklyn. (Did you know that only 3 to 4 percent of all selected, inspected and approved meat in the United States is rated prime?)
Dry aging is the process by which large cuts of beef are hung on racks in a meat locker where the temperatures are kept between 38 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit, a specific humidity level is maintained, and air is constantly circulated around them. They then are aged four to six weeks before being trimmed and cut into steaks. There also is wet aging, where the meat is first cryovaced, a process where the meat is placed in special packaging and the air removed by vacuum, and then aged several weeks.
The process requires high grade quality meat with a high fat content so that as the beef ages and moisture evaporates from the meat, the meat shrinks and the flavor becomes more concentrated in the muscle. The meat also becomes more tender because proteins in the muscle break down. It’s an expensive process due to the quality of meat needed at the start, the large physical area required to hang the carcasses, the need to constantly monitor the temperature of the storage room, and the time involved. That’s why you find it mostly in steak houses or butcher shops, and occasionally at a high-end grocery store.
I don’t recommend trying to dry age individual steaks at home, even though several well-known websites have instructions to do so. In the commercial process experts are constantly monitoring the beef to make sure there is no chance of spoilage or off-flavors, because if the beef is not pulled at the right time the surface mold that develops and is critical in the process will affect the flavor of the meat.
My concern is that unlike the carefully monitored commercial lockers, which meet stringent quality and safety guidelines, your refrigerator contains many different types of food with potentially higher bacteria counts in a non-controlled higher temperature setting.
In a home refrigerator, the temperature changes every time you open the door, the humidity is high, there is no air circulation, there may be some spoiled item in the frig which could contaminate the steak, and the chance of your having spoiled meat which will make you sick is pretty high. So I highly recommend enjoying your dry aged steaks at a great steak house, or cooking those that you purchase at a reputable butcher or grocery store.
Back in the day when I was younger, friends and I, including the late Ed Hitzel, would go to Peter Luger just to eat their 42-ounce T-bone steak for two for lunch. But, I’d eat the entire 42 ounces myself, along with sides, and think nothing about it. And I did that often.
But as I’ve gotten older I realize that eating that much beef at one time – or even in one week – is too much and certainly not healthy for me or anyone. I am trying to exercise more, eat healthy meals that include more vegetables and whole grains, and reduce the amount of red meat in my diet.
I think Ed Hitzel would be proud of me, and to honor his memory I still visit Peter Luger’s with friends. We sit at the table at the window and share our memories of Ed while enjoying the great steak dinner he loved. But, I only eat half of what I order and bring the rest home!
Mangia!
My Favorite Quick Steak Recipe: Buy the best quality steak you can afford, season it with kosher salt and pepper, and brush with melted butter. Heat a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat (or on the grill) until the pan is nice and hot. Sear the steak on one side until a beautiful crust develops, turn, repeat on the second side, and cook to your desired temperature. It doesn’t get much better than this.
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Joe’s Table for Two radio show airs Saturday mornings from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on WOND 1400 AM. Website: joestablefortwo.com. Facebook: Joe’s Table for 2 and Eat at Joe’s EHT. Contact Joe: joestablefortwo@gmail.com
