By David Setley
I tasted Malbec wine from Argentina for the first time nearly 15 years ago. I was amazed at how rich, smooth, and delicious it was, and reasonably priced! I spoke with wine friends about the varietal, but it seemed no one had heard of it. I felt like I had discovered the next big thing in wine! Fast forward to today and Malbec is nearly synonymous with Argentina. But did it originate there? Join me while I pour a glass and dig into a little detective work.
Perhaps the most significant person to impact the Argentinean winemaking industry is the French agricultural engineer, Michel Aimé Pouget. It all began in 1853 when the Governor of the Cuyo (central) region, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento, a man who would later become the President of Argentina, sent a proposal to the national Argentinean government to develop and expand the winemaking industry. Pouget was hired as a viticulture specialist.
Pouget founded the first agricultural school and vine nursery in Mendoza, Argentina. He introduced numerous French grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Malbec, from cuttings he brought from France. A number of these grapes adapted very well to the terroir and produced wines of excellent concentration and quality. Malbec, or “la uva Francesa,” (the French Grape) as it was known in Argentina, adapted the best. In fact, Malbec plantings grew significantly throughout the late 19th and early 20th centuries and expanded to many wine regions throughout the country. Michel Aimé Pouget is now known as the Father of Malbec in Argentina and the date he was hired, April 17, is celebrated internationally each year as World Malbec Day.
Let’s return to France for a few minutes though, where Pouget collected his clippings before heading to South America. Evidence suggests that Pouget collected his vines from Bordeaux, Burgundy, and the Sud Ouest (South-West) wine regions of France. Malbec is one of the five principal red grapes of Bordeaux and is the dominant red grape in a subregion of Sud Ouest, called Cahors. Yes, it appears that France is the true birthplace of Malbec. If you’d like to try a French Malbec, reach for the Château La Caminade – Mission La Caminade Cahors, for a wine that is 85% Malbec and 15% Merlot.
Origins aside, let’s head back to Argentina to continue our Malbec exploration. Malbec vineyards were actually declining in Argentina by the early 2000s before Malbec wines experienced a surge of appreciation in international markets. Interestingly enough, it was about this time that I first experienced Malbec. Malbec quickly became Argentina’s most exported wine and, in a relatively short time, changed the international reputation of Argentine wine. No longer was the country seen as a producer of low-quality wines. Today, 75% of the world’s Malbec comes from Argentina and the wine accounts for 40% of all the wine produced in that country.
Malbec, a grape born in France, found its perfect terroir in the South American country. As the French say, “terroir is everything!” Malbec is grown in many regions of Argentina, and each produces wine with unique characteristics.
In Patagonia, the southernmost region of Argentina, the wine is lighter in color, body, and aroma, but still retains the rich black cherry fruit flavors and notes of tobacco and leather. A great example is the Fabre Montmayou Patagonia Malbec.
In the central region, Mendoza is the most prolific producer of Malbec, accounting for 80% of the nation’s production. Bodega Catena Zapata-Catena Malbec Mendoza is an outstanding example. This region is warmer, so the resulting flavors are bolder. Rich blackberry and plum are the dominant fruit flavors and the earthy notes of tobacco and leather are more intense.
In the Northern region of Calchaqui Valley, the Bodega El Esteco-Don David Reserve Malbec is my personal favorite, and it has nothing to do with the name. The further north one goes in the Southern Hemisphere, the warmer the climate. Malbec, a late-harvest grape, takes full advantage of the longer growing season to produce a deliciously rich and supple wine. The dark fruit flavors balanced by the leather, earth and smoke notes make for a perfect example of this area’s wine.
I hope you enjoyed my investigation into Malbec. If you haven’t tried this wine, or it has been a while, please consider my recommendations. Better yet, grab a bottle of each to compare the impact of terroir. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the Somers Point store. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
