This year, Hanukkah begins on the evening of Dec. 14 and concludes on Dec. 22. Dates are set by the Hebrew calendar, always beginning on the 25th day of the Jewish month of Kislev, which usually falls in late November or December on the solar (Gregorian) calendar. The dates vary annually due to the calendar’s lunar basis and the addition of a leap month every few years to align with the seasons. Holidays in Judaism start at sundown, so the first night of Hanukkah is when the 25th of Kislev begins.
Hanukkah is the wintertime “festival of lights,” marked by the nightly lighting of the menorah, special prayers, and fried foods. Chanukah translates to “dedication” in a Jewish language and celebrates the rededication of the Holy Temple after a small band of Jews, under the leadership of Judah the Maccabee, beat overwhelming odds and defeated what was then considered the most powerful army in the world. When the victors attempted to light the Temple’s menorah, they had enough olive oil for only one night. But a miracle occurred; the menorah stayed lit for eight nights! Hanukkah celebrates their victory and the miracle of the oil. Eating foods fried in oil, including latkes and sufganiyot, also celebrates the oil.
In Yiddish, kosher means “fit” or “proper.” According to Nick Fauchald of Wine Spectator magazine, kosher wine is wine produced to conform with Jewish dietary requirements under the supervision of a rabbi. All ingredients, including the yeast and fining agents, must be kosher, and all equipment utilized must be rabbinically certified. No corn syrup may be used as a sweetening agent unless additional certification is obtained and it is appropriately labeled on the bottle.
Another term used in reference to kosher wines is mevushal, meaning “cooked” or “boiled” to describe the pasteurization process used to meet this standard. In modern times, a flash pasteurization process is used. A mevushal kosher wine may be chosen to relieve any concerns of the wine’s kosher status being compromised.
Manischewitz is one of the most recognized kosher wines and is mevushal. The Manischewitz winery is located in Canandaigua in the Finger Lakes region of New York state. This wine is made from New York Concord grapes and is known to be rather sweet and fruity, with a flavor that is frequently related to Welch’s grape juice. It is very affordable and is a traditional celebration wine in many Jewish households.
There are many other kosher/mevushal wines to choose from, including three options from Italy. Bartenura has a Moscato D’Asti and a Brachetto. Moscato D’Asti is a slightly sweet, effervescent wine with notes of pear, nectarines, melons, apricot, and a touch of honey. This is a wonderful welcome wine to greet guests with and goes well with salad or charcuterie. Bartenura Brachetto is produced with grapes grown in the Piedmont region in northwest Italy. This is another slightly sweet and effervescent wine with rich flavors of strawberry, raspberry, and hints of ripe cherry. Brachetto is wonderful as an aperitif, with cheeses, or with light entrees.
For a drier, more traditional Italian red, try the Cantina Gabriele Sangiovese from Tuscany. This is a classic Italian Sangiovese with the deep ruby red color you are likely familiar with in Chianti and other Sangiovese-based Tuscan wines. It is full-bodied with fine, silky tannins and the flavors and aroma of dark cherries, leather, and earth. This is a perfect wine for all Italian fare and pairs well with brisket.
Also from Italy, Sorrento Winery produces two very good kosher red wines. The Sorrento kosher Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cab grapes with subtle flavors of black plums and blackberries, with subtle notes of vanilla. For a lighter red, the Sorrento Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is an authentic, well-balanced Italian Rosso with flavors of cherries and warm baking spices. All of these are mevushal certified.
South Africa has become well-known for its fine wines, including three excellent kosher and mevushal wines under the clever brand name Unorthodox. The Unorthodox Merlot & Cabernet Sauvignon blend is a great kosher red wine. The wine is aged seven months in oak barrels, resulting in a full-bodied, rich, dark red wine with flavors of dark fruit and berries with a touch of vanilla and baking spices. This blend would go very well with brisket or any red meat.
Unorthodox also has a Sauvignon Blanc and, my favorite, the Unorthodox Chenin Blanc. The Sauvignon Blanc is light-bodied and aged in stainless steel to retain the wonderfully refreshing crispness and minerality of this varietal. Chenin Blanc is a varietal that South Africa has become known for. This artfully-made dry white wine is well-balanced with the beautiful aroma of honeysuckle and chamomile, as well as the fruit flavors of yellow apple, pear, white peach, and a touch of honey. This wine is aged in oak to impart light wood notes and a darker color. Either of these would be great with latkes or fish dishes.
I hope this article gives you a better understanding of kosher wines and some recommendations to complement your holiday celebrations. As always, if you have questions, feel free to contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the store. Until next time, “chag oreem samayach,” Happy Hanukkah, and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
