The Casino File
From ownership to expansion to operational policies, Tropicana Atlantic City has undergone countless changes in its 44-year existence. But there has been one constant through the decades: il Verdi, the high-end Italian dining room that is older than any current gaming hall eatery save for the venerable Capriccio at Resorts Casino-Hotel, which predated it by 3 years.
Since 1981, the restaurant has set the Trop’s fine-dining bar with its attention to culinary detail and first-class service that has always emphasized making guests feel welcome and appreciated. But like so much else at the Boardwalk’s western-most gaming hall, this isn’t your father’s il Verdi.
In 2023, the operation moved from its original, windowless location on the casino floor in the area of the North (hotel) Tower to the oceanfront space previously occupied by celibri-chef Jose Garces’ Latin American-leaning Olon. Along with spectacular beach-and-water views came a three-fold increase in size: What was an intimate salon seating less than 100 guests now accommodates more than 300 indoors—and another 60 on the patio. As such, it’s not surprising that il Verdi’s chef, Michael Buckley, fully understands what the stakes are for the kitchen he supervises.
“There’s a lot of weight on my shoulders here,” acknowledged the 32-year-old Atlantic County native who also supervises the fare at il Verdi’s next-door neighbor, Ossu Asian Tavern. “I feel like all eyes are on me here; this is our flagship restaurant [among those owned and operated by the Trop], so we’re always trying to maintain the highest standards possible.
“My boss, [Executive Chef Demetrius Haronis], is always looking to source the best ingredients possible. We don’t sacrifice any quality here, so we really have to showcase that and prove to the masses that this is where they want to come and eat.”
A recent visit revealed il Verdi can hold its own with any high-end restaurant—Italian or otherwise—in a local casino; Buckley hasn’t much to sweat, whether from the food (the lobster ravioli boasts a creamy sauce that falls firmly in the “to-die-for” category, and the crab cake ranks with the Shore’s best), the service staff that can’t do enough for patrons or the space’s cool, modern ambience that is upscale but welcoming and not at all fussy.
Speaking of the bill of fare, this iteration of il Verdi differs from its predecessor, which emphasized traditional Italian favorites. These “legacy” dishes still comprise a significant portion of the menu, but while Buckley has one eye on the past, the other is focused on the contemporary dining realm.
“I’d say it’s about half the same,” he offered in reference to the current menu (generally speaking, changes are made two-to-three times a year).
“You can see on the back page of our menu, where the entrees are, it says ‘Omaggio a Verdi’ (homage to Verdi). So, these are our classic traditional dishes, like rigatoni Bolognese or the gnocchi or the veal. And then on the right side it says, ‘Casa Nostra,’ which is like the new House of Verdi. That’s all of our newer Mediterranean-inspired additions.”
When asked to identify the item he is most proud of, Buckley didn’t hesitate before responding.
“I’d say our octopus. If you’re into octopus, that’s number-one here. We poach it correctly; a lot of places don’t do that. Actually, what I’m seeing in a lot of restaurants is that they’re buying pre-cooked, frozen octopus to cut down on prep time as well as costs.” That, he added, isn’t the case at il Verdi.
According to Buckley, there’s something else that sets the dish apart from the pack.
“We have a woodfire grill here,” he said. “There’s no gas assistance. We load it every day with charcoal and wood, and it’s started with fire starters. So, you get a ton of flavor from the smoke that hits the octopus. It elevates it and transcends it.”
As for the price points, the room is in line with other high-end casino spots (figure $100-$150 per person with appetizers, cocktails and dessert). But portion sizes definitely create value (e.g. the $14 Caesar salad is easily enough for two adults and even three).
As noted above, il Verdi has an al fresco space for the warm-weather months which, Buckley explained, provides another dimension for patrons.
“It’s called the il Verdi Patio. We kind of turned it into an outdoor trattoria in the sense that it’s elevated happy-hour food, bar food.
“You can still get the full menu out there, but there is a menu that’s curated [exclusively for] the Patio. It’s small plates. We do miniature seafood towers, sandwiches.
“Any day that it’s nice, you can request to sit outside. There’s furniture out there. There’s music that’s actually different from the music inside, so that it’s more like a coastal, ocean kind of vibe. We love to see people sit out there because it’s such a beautiful space.”
Incidentally, happy hours are not limited to the Patio. There’s also a daily one—at 5 p.m.–at the bar that, noted Buckley, is particularly popular.
“I almost feel like it’s the current gold standard here in Atlantic City,” he bragged. “We have a line out the door every day.
“I think the difference with us is that you’re getting quality fresh food the same as it is on the menu. We’re not cheaping out for happy hour like a lot of places that source frozen product.”
His happy hour, Buckley suggested, is perfect for someone who isn’t quite sure whether or not to invest time and money in dinner there.
“We serve the same [dinner] menu items for happy hour, so that guests can get a taste. If they’re hesitant about coming in to sit down with us, they can at least try our menu there. It’s smaller portions, but it’s still that same fresh, delicious food.
However, he warned, “If you’re not here by five, I can’t guarantee you a seat.”
For more information, go to caesars.com/tropicana-ac/restaurants/il-verdi.
Chuck Darrow has spent more than 40 years writing about Atlantic City casinos.
