Drink Up!
with David Setley,
Passion Vines
July and August, better known as the ‘dog days of summer’ are here. This time of year is when we experience the hottest and most humid weather in the Northern Hemisphere. The phrase ‘dog days’ came from ancient Rome and Greece when it was thought that both dogs and humans were driven to insanity by the heat. This is also when the brightest star in the night sky – Sirius, the Dog Star – rises. Ancient Greeks named Sirius from the Greek word seirios, meaning scorching. Suffice it to say, it’s hot here at the Jersey Shore! The best way to cool off is a glass or two of cold white wine. Let’s discuss!
White wine is typically enjoyed cold, at 40-45 degrees Fahrenheit whereas red wine is usually appreciated at a warmer 55-60 degrees Fahrenheit. Tannins in red wine have bitter notes that are exaggerated when chilled, potentially making it taste sour or, at the very least, reducing the dark red fruit and earth aromas that make red wine enjoyably complex. On the other hand, the major flavor component of white wine is acidity. Chilling white wines enhance their acidity, making them taste even more crisp and refreshing. Furthermore, the tropical and citrus aromas in white wines are not diminished by being chilled. Although there are lighter-bodied reds that may be enjoyed chilled, that is a topic for a different week. Today, let’s look at some excellent white wines that will complement your summer meals or porch time.
Pinot Grigio is a classic Italian white wine, made from Pinot Grigio grapes that come from the Alto Adige and Friuli regions in northeastern Italy. Pinot Grigio is zingy; dry, light and refreshing with notes of lemon and ripe green apple. Sant’ Elena Pinot Grigio Venezia is an excellent example of this wine at its finest, although Briganti Filomena, ERA, Kris, Scarpetta, Giuliani Rosati, and Canaletto are also all reasonably priced and delicious.
Another two awesome whites from Italy are Soave and Arneis. Soave is a subregion of the Veneto region near the city of Venice. The wine that bears the appellation’s name is made from the Garganega grape. Try the Pra-Otto Soave Classico 2023. It is certified organic, is light and refreshing with notes of almond, but it is more complex with more minerality than Pinot Grigio. Fun fact, Otto is the name of the winemaker’s dog. Arneis is a grape grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy that produces a wine that is sometimes called the White Barolo. The Malviro Roero Arneis is one of my favorite Italian white wines. It is fresh and medium-bodied with the fruitiness of white peaches and notes of honey.
France is home to three outstanding white wines: Sancerre, Muscadet, and Picpoul de Pinet. Sancerre is a subregion in the far eastern side of the Loire Valley. The grape of this highly respected wine is actually Sauvignon Blanc. Though you have likely tasted wonderful California or New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs, I urge you to try a Sancerre. Why? Terroir, of course! Wine demonstrates the qualities of the place where the grapes are grown. Sancerre’s soil is clay and limestone. The Sauvignon Blanc grapes from this region have a distinctive stone minerality while offering fruit flavors of Meyer lemons, Mirabelle plums, and honeydew. Try the Jean-Paul Picard or the Karine Lauverjat Sancerre to experience the beauty and elegance of this wine.
Muscadet Sèvre-et-Maine is at the far west end of the Loire Valley near the Atlantic Ocean. The grape utilized in making Muscadet wine is Melon de Bourgogne. Many believe this is a sweet wine because of the similarity in its name to Muscatel or Moscato. But, au contraire! Muscadet is a very dry wine. My favorite is the organically farmed Domaine de la Bregeonnette – Muscadet. If you like shellfish, especially raw oysters, this wine will be your new best friend. It has high acidity, light citrus notes, and the saline minerality of sea mist that make it a perfect pairing.
In the south of France near the Mediterranean Sea is the wine region of Languedoc-Roussillon. From the subregion of Picpoul de Pinet comes a wine named for this appellation. Domaine Cabrol Picpoul de Pinet is my recommendation. The wine is very light and refreshing with slight aromas of wildflowers and herbs, light flavors of citrus and kiwi, and a classic minerality. The bottles of Picpoul de Pinet wines are also beautiful, packaged in slender, green “Neptune” bottles that are embossed with the name of the appellation, a pilgrim cross, and waves around the neck to remind the viewer of the wine’s coastal Mediterranean home. You will not believe how reasonable this unique wine is. Try it with appetizers or with a seafood dinner.
The Basque Country wine region of northern Spain produces crisp, zesty, slightly dry, and slightly effervescent Txakoli wines (pronounced like the start of chocolate, but say choc-o-lee). They are primarily made from Hondarribia Zuri and Hondarribia Beltza grapes and come in both white and rosé styles that are fabulous for summer. Txakoli wines have notably high levels of minerality and are relatively low in alcohol, typically 10-11%. Many of the vineyards are located directly on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, resulting in a slightly salty minerality. The region is a cool, wet area, giving the grapes a short growing season that prevents them from achieving a high level of maturity, resulting in wines that tend to be highly acidic. The Axakolina Getariako is a great example of this wine.
This discussion only represents the tip of the iceberg when it comes to white wines, but you hopefully have some new options to help you beat the heat. Let me know which wines are your favorites. As always, contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop into the store. Until next time, keep cool and Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
