Drink Up!
March is Women’s History Month, when we recognize the achievements and contributions of women in all aspects of business and society. International Women’s Day, an annual celebration on March 8, dates back to 1911 in Austria, Switzerland, Germany, and Denmark; the United Nations and the United States began recognizing the holiday in 1975. In this article, I will pay homage to some female wine heroes to acknowledge their contributions to global viticulture.
The first honoree is Christina Netzl, an Austrian winemaker from Göttlesbrunn in the Carnuntum region. Christina grew up with her parents, Franz and Christine Netzl, at a six-generation, family-run farm that grew grains, corn, sugar beets, and some vines. She fell in love with wine production very early, claiming her best times were spent in the vineyards and the cellar, as well as telling customers the stories behind the wines. Over time, her parents began focusing only on growing wine grapes, allowing them to gradually expand wine production. She learned everything about classic wine production from her father and then decided to expand her knowledge by studying oenology and wine management. In 2007, Christina went home to work at the Netzl family’s winery. In 2013, Christina transitioned the vineyard to organic farming, focused on sustainability, biodiversity, and native yeast fermentation.
Today, Christina produces a line of wonderful organic, low-intervention, natural wines. Christina’s Orange is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Welschriesling. She claims, “the white grapes love the perfect conditions of our ‘Pannonian’ climate with the deep and nutritious soils in combination with gravel on the top. As a result, they develop their very intensive and exotic aromatic with some nice acidity on the palate, due to the cooler influences of the River Danube during the night.” She describes this wine as “hints of herbs and earthiness at the beginning, with exotic yellow fruit developing perfectly in the glass.” This versatile, food-friendly wine pairs well with anything from chicken to pork, to sushi to spicy dishes.
Christina’s Zweigelt is another wonderful wine that is 100% Zweigelt, a grape indigenous to the Carnuntum region of Austria. It is a light-bodied red with notes of red raspberries, tart cherries, and cranberries, with hints of spice and earthiness. This wine pairs well with pizza, pasta dishes, and corn dogs. It’s a great wine to bring to your next porch party.
My wife and I had the pleasure of visiting the Pouilly-Fume region of the eastern Loire Valley in France last year. This region borders Sancerre. We visited the Domaine Roger Pabiot and met my next honoree, Pauline Pabiot. Pauline is the fifth generation in a family of passionate independent wine-growers. She introduced a new approach and guided the estate towards more environmentally friendly wine growing practices, earning the High Environmental Value Level 3 (France’s highest level) certification in 2019. Pauline studied viticulture in Burgundy and then spent four years in Switzerland investigating, among other things, Chasselas, a grape that originated near Lake Geneva. The Chassalas grape also grows in the Pabiot vineyards. Pauline’s L’Ancestral, Pouilly-sur-Loire is a wine she created to pay homage to that varietal. During our visit, we also tasted the Domaine Roger Pabiot Pouilly-Fumé, Coteau des Girarmes. It is an outstanding Sauvignon Blanc that demonstrates the terroir of this beautiful region of France. I highly suggest you give it a try!
My next honoree is Jenny Wagner, daughter of Chuck Wagner who co-founded Caymus Wines. Jenny and her brother Charlie grew up in the Wagner family vineyards and wineries, learning the industry from an early age. In Jenny’s words, wine is, “in her blood.” After graduating with a degree in Business Administration, she started working full-time for the family business. She is responsible for crafting The Walking Fool Red Blend from the Caymus-Suisun winery. If you have not tried this yet, what are you waiting for? The Walking Fool is named after a long-ago relative who was often seen traveling by foot through the vineyards. This red blend features my two favorite California varietals: Zinfandel and Petite Sirah. It is smooth and lively, with juicy raspberry, notes of espresso and softly fine tannins.
My final honoree is in South America’s Bodega Catena Zapata in the Mendoza wine region of Argentina. Dr. Laura Catena has been called the face of Argentine wine for her active role in studying and promoting the region’s wine. Catena graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and has a medical degree from Stanford University. In 1995, Dr. Catena joined her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata, at the family winery and founded the Catena Institute of Wine with a vision to improve the quality of all Argentine wines. She currently serves as the managing director of the winery and works closely with the winemakers to maximize the benefits of the region’s terroir. Her book, “Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina,” has been featured in Oprah Magazine, the New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The San Francisco Chronicle, Decanter Magazine, Food & Wine Magazine, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, and Wine Advocate. Try the Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec or the Catena High Mountain Vines Chardonnay. Both are excellent examples of Argentine wine at its best!
As always, if you have questions or comments, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
