Drink Up
with David Setley
Based on 2022 statistics, Portugal is the 8th largest wine exporter in the world, something that may not seem like a big deal until you learn that the USA places 10th. Last week I discussed Port, the fortified wine that Portugal is most famous for. This week, I’m wrapping up my cruise-vacation travel log with the outstanding red, white, and rosé wines of Portugal’s Douro River wine region.
Midway through our cruise, my wife and I enjoyed a day in Porto. Porto is located in Northern Portugal, near the mouth of the Douro River. The river crosses the entire width of the country. In the northwestern section of Portugal, along the Douro, is the Vinho Verde wine region that is famous for the country’s most popular white wine blend. The blend is also known as Vinho Verde, because, similar to other old-world wines (e.g. Bordeaux, Chianti, or Champagne), the wine here is known by the name of the region rather than the varietal of grape from which it is made.
During our stop, we had the pleasure of visiting Quinta Da Aveleda, a beautiful vineyard and winery just outside of Porto. Founded over 150 years ago by Manoel Pedro Guedes, the vineyards and winery is currently operated by the 5th generation of his family. Their wines are distributed to more than 70 countries, including the USA. In fact, we sell a few at Passion Vines. Let me tell you, the gardens and property around the vineyards are breathtakingly beautiful. We were fortunate to taste a few wines, including the Aveleda Fonte Vinho Verde, a blend of Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura and Fernão Pires. This might be a good time to mention that the grape varietals in Portugal do not have names familiar to most American wine consumers.
Portuguese wines are founded in varietals that are indigenous to the country and the regions in which they are cultivated. This is one of the reasons I personally find wines from Portugal to be so interesting. They are quite unique! The grapes for the wine we tried are harvested at night to maximize their freshness and flavor when they arrive for processing in the morning. The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled steel vats. The result is an elegant, crisp, slightly fizzy white wine with a beautifully fruity bouquet marked by notes of green apple and lime. The flavor is light with notable minerality and refreshing notes of citrus fruits. This wine is extremely versatile, and pairs perfectly with seafood, chicken, vegetables, or cheese. At only 9.5% alcohol, it is also a wonderful welcome wine to greet your guests with, or to just enjoy sitting on the porch on a warm evening.
For fans of rosé, the Vinho Verde region does not disappoint. The Vera Vinho Verde Rosé is a blend of Vinhão and Rabo de Anho. Vinhão means “big wine” in Portuguese and is a rare tinturier (red pulp grape) with a dark color; Rabo de Anho adds lightness and freshness. Both grapes are indigenous to the region. In 1991, Vera was the first to ever produce a rosé in the Vinho Verde region. The resulting dry rosé has a floral aroma with a crisp, fresh strawberry and watermelon flavor that, to me, tastes like summer.
Following the Douro River inland to the east, we find the wine region that bears the name of the river and is known for its delicious “tinto” (red) wines. An awesome example of a Douro wine is the Twisted Douro Portugal Tinto, by Niepoort Vinhos. If that name seems familiar, Niepoort Vinhos also makes some of the Port wines I discussed in last week’s article. It is worth seeking out the Twisted Douro for the label alone, on which you will see a cool illustration done by American animator Bill Plympton. The wine is a red blend of Touriga Franca, Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz, and Tinta Amarela, all grapes that are indigenous to the Douro. Notice the pattern? Portugal wine makers are eternally loyal to grapes of the country and the region in which they produce their wines. The Twisted Douro is fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in oak casks and stainless steel. The wine is an intense ruby color with a floral aroma and notes of balsamic and fresh red fruit. The palate is light and elegant, with smooth tannins and a pleasant acidity that makes this an easy drinking wine, with food or by itself. The Twisted Douro goes just as well with vegetables and white meats, like pork and chicken, as it does with red meat. If you haven’t Portuguese wine yet, give this one a try.
I’m sure it is of no surprise to anyone who has read my articles or attended one of my wine tastings that I love Portugal wines. I hope this article (and last week’s) inspires you to give them a try. Whether your preference is port, red, white, or rosé, I am confident that you will not be disappointed. Feel free to contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, Happy Wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
