By Scott Cronick
Is Atlantic City in the middle of a renaissance?
I think so, and it’s time for people to notice.
Look around.
A $100 million waterpark just opened on the Boardwalk at Showboat, which also has the world’s largest arcade called The Lucky Snake.
The Orange Loop is growing to become the main street Mark Callazzo once envisioned, featuring everything from a beer hall to the only place in the state where chocolate is made from the bean to upscale restaurants (Cardinal, Rhythm & Spirits), a great coffeehouse in Heyday, a live music hub at Anchor Rock Club, renovated apartment buildings and even a marijuana dispensary that is going to expand soon.
Around town: other new restaurants are popping up constantly; Stockton University has changed the complexion of the city; neighborhood community development corporations are beautifying the city and helping make it safer; and the casino world is experiencing growth and reinvesting in restaurants and entertainment.
At the top of that list is Caesars Entertainment, which is infusing more than $400 million into its three properties – Caesars, Tropicana and Harrah’s – with new restaurants including Nobu and Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen, renovated rooms and suites, along with incentives for more people to visit Atlantic City.
Perhaps the most impressive thing Caesars Entertainment has done is committing a rumored $40 million to open The Hook and Superfrico at Caesars Atlantic City. A joint venture between Caesars and Spiegelworld, a California-based theater troupe and entertainment and dining company that has wowed audiences worldwide, particularly in Las Vegas, where they produce three shows – the absolutely amazing “Absinthe” at Caesars Palace, “Opium” at The Cosmopolitan, along with the Italian American psychedelic restaurant Superfrico and speakeasy Ski Lodge, and “Atomic Saloon Show” at The Venetian.
After seeing The Hook – twice! – and dining at Superfrico for my birthday, I can wholeheartedly acclaim that Spiegelworld is changing Atlantic City for the better permanently … and will be one of the main chapters of success when people look back and ask what were the major factors of Atlantic City’s rebirth?
It’s astounding, entertaining, stunningly gorgeous, delicious and – most importantly – fun!
The Hook is unlike anything Atlantic City has ever seen or experienced. Not only is the custom-built theater worth the price of admission itself, but the show is silly, whimsical, mind-blowingly daring and very adults-only fare, while Superfrico will soon be considered one of the best restaurants in Atlantic City
Meet the Impresario
The brains and guts and creative energy behind Spiegelworld is Ross Mollison, an impossible-not-to-like Aussie who bills himself as the troupe’s Impresario Extraordinaire. He’s like the Willy Wonka of Atlantic City theater.
Spiegelworld actually began not too far north in New York City in 2006. The company eventually toured before opening an enhanced version of “Absinthe” at Caesars Palace Las Vegas in 2011 in a 650-seat spiegeltent – which is where Spiegelworld got its name – right outside Caesars’ main lobby before becoming such a hit that a custom-built, more permanent tent was constructed there. Still running, “Absinthe” was named the No. 1 greatest show in Las Vegas history by Las Vegas Weekly. Having seen it – and most other long-running shows in Vegas – it’s hard to disagree.
Throughout the years, Spiegelworld has expanded its shows in Las Vegas, toured the world even purchased the whole town of Nipton, Calif., – population 15 to 20 – for $2.5 million, stating it will become its new base of operations and where Spiegelworld will “retreat to dream, create and undertake unfettered artistic experimentation.”
“We started in Pier 17 under the Brooklyn Bridge on the East River in Manhattan and built a spiegeltent there and put ‘Absinthe’ in there,” Mollison recalled. “Then we went to Miami and then a deal in Vegas and they went bankrupt, and then we did another deal at Caesars Palace in 2011, and it has been a massive hit, and we have been out there for 12 years.”
Mollison said Atlantic City was never in Spiegelworld’s grand plans, but persistence by Caesars over the years eventually opened his eyes to a city he now says he loves.
“Our friends at Caesars said ‘It’s time to head back east. We have this great spot – the Warner Theatre right on the Boardwalk! It’s just a façade, but we think you guys can do something with it.’ Caesars has said over the years to come have a look, and we have been in a few times and looked at it … and the time is just right. Caesars has new owners and came in and said, ‘We are going to spend a ton of money.’ And the state and the city and the mayor and the governor are behind A.C. In our business it’s like surfing. Sometimes, you paddle a little early and miss the wave, and sometimes you paddle a little late and you miss the wave. The time was right to paddle and catch the A.C. wave.”
Get Hooked
The Hook – the dual name for the Spiegelworld theater and restaurant complex as well as the show – is a stunning piece of architecture that pays homage to Atlantic City meticulously.
Located right off the boardwalk in the space that was formerly a slot hall that connected Caesars to the Wild Wild West Casino, do yourself and enter from the boardwalk, where the façade of the former Warner Theatre – an Atlantic City Boardwalk icon dubbed the “Wonder Theatre of the World” that opened in 1929 and became an East Coast mecca for star-studded entertainment with more than 4,000 seats – has been beautifully restored. A new, eye-catching marquee will grab your eye, but look closer at the intricate, classic architecture above it, including a new stained-glass window.
Next to the marquee, guests can have a bite – get the Superfrico chicken parm sandwich – and a drink at Cheval de Plongee, a French, tongue-in-cheek play on the bar that guests will first find when they walk inside, the Horse Dive Bar – obviously homages to the Steel Pier’s diving horse shows – that features a glow from the boardwalk through the stained glass. It also features walls packed with diving horse and Steel Pier memorabilia including everything from historic pictures to actual goggles from former divers to kitschy art and a booth completely lined with plush animals.
Mollison said a Spiegelworld show is “best enjoyed with a cocktail,” and guests certainly won’t go thirsty. In addition to the aforementioned bars, there’s another in the rear of the theater along with the one inside Superfrico, offering amazing libations from Cracker Jack-themed cocktails to top-shelf, creative offerings like the Black Star with buttered Bulleit Bourbon, yellow Chartreuse, Punt e Mes and cold brew, along with a stellar wine list.
Every inch of the space – from the bowling alley-themed hallway to the intricately painted balcony border – is a nod to Atlantic City’s past, present and future with unbelievable detail.
“We don’t pretend to understand what it is to be in Atlantic City 100 years ago or 50 years ago or even 20 years ago, but we did some research, and we love so much of the history and culture there, and we wanted to pay due respect to that,” Mollison said. “We wanted to create something for people who have been around while so they would come in and say, ‘Hey, the Horse Dive Bar …. that’s cool!’ And at the same time, you get younger people to come in and say, ‘Wow! This is crazy. This is fun.’ We love the details. It’s about creating a place where our audiences can come and have fun. Fun shouldn’t end when you’re 6 or 7 or 12 or 13. Why shouldn’t places be fun when you’re 20, 30, 50, 60, 100? Whatever age you are, you should be able to come out and say, ‘Wow! I can come in here and forget everything and have a blast.’”
On with the show
The main attraction, of course, is The Hook, a 70-minute show inside the 420-seat theater that is part cirque, part burlesque, all fun.
Hosted by Dick Marlin, his show launches with a risk of lobsters dancing around and competing in a Miss America-like contest before taking an unexpected turn when a ship literally crashes his show, delivering another cast of wacky characters to bring even more insanity to the table … some very raunchy entertainment that certainly earns its adults-only warning.
Without giving way too much, the audience will be treated to unbelievable aerialists, jugglers who make the sometimes boring art form fresh and exciting, funny comedians who love to interact with the audience, a jaw-dropping contortionist, a male stripper, a wacky magician who eats razor blades, acrobats who make great use out of a tight stage and a host who pushes the boundaries in every way.
Mollison is particularly excited about the theater itself since it presents opportunities his other shows in Vegas can’t explore.
“This is the best theater we ever built,” he said. “This is a purpose-built theater just for Spiegelworld. We have this incredible grid, which means we can do these aerial acts we never were able to do before, and the aerialists can walk straight from their dressing room on to the grid and just fly down. So, this purpose-built, beautiful theater allows us to do the most incredible acrobatics from all over the world combined with great comedians, and it creates a fantastic environment. There are all sorts of booths you can celebrate in, there are seats right on top of the stage, but if you are nervous, you can sit upstairs in the dress circle.”
Mollison said he thinks the adult nature of the show is an asset, not a detriment.
“There are some great musicals you can see in New York that are family friendly, and there are things around here you can do with the kids, but we are an adult circus, and we are not for everyone,” Mollison said. “People who come to see us either know us or heard about us or read about us and say, ‘Yeah, I wanna go see that.’ It’s a bit more adult … and that’s why we have been so successful in Vegas. We wanted something with a bit of an edge, but at the same time has spectacular acrobatics that people love.”
The impresario says the acts will constantly change to keep things fresh and encourage repeat visitation.
“That is the whole modus operandi,” Mollison added. “The show started and then it was like, ‘Let the rehearsals begin!’ We keep developing the show and we keep changing the show. We are constantly changing the show in Vegas, and we will do the same in Atlantic City so when you come back, you can say, ‘Wow! There’s something different there.’ That’s why we get return visitation. Some people have seen our shows 20 or 30 times.”
Stay for dinner
To complete the experience, I highly recommend dinner at Superfrico. Billed as “Italian American Psychedelic,” it’s the most interesting Italian restaurant you may ever eat in.
Literally hidden backstage of The Hook, the 150-seat restaurant opened its first location in Las Vegas in 2021, offering Italian, psychedelic comfort food featuring random live performances from the cast that is jumping off stage from The Hook to your table inside Superfrico. It’s a wild scene.
When you first enter Superfrico, the Backdrop Bar will be the first thing you see and features a DJ and some of the most sought-after tables in the joint. Then there are several small dining rooms, all themed after the show, including The Dressing Room, which is decorated with mirrors and costumes; the Prop Room, featuring artsy displays of show props; and the Aviary, a private dining room with an audubon art collection from an esteemed American artist.
Of course, the food is the main attraction, and you won’t be disappointed as Superfrico Executive Culinary Director Anna Altieri, a Philadelphia native, and Executive Chef Nick Faucher, formerly of Harrah’s, have concocted a menu that is different than the Vegas Superfrico and pays homage to Atlantic City.
It is particularly reverential to the legendary Hackney’s, which started as a clam shack in Atlantic City in 1912 and grew to the largest restaurant in the world. That’s where the dancing lobsters in The Hook come from – Hackney’s would often have costumed lobsters on the boardwalk – as well as menu items like Hackney’s Deviled Crab pizza – one of four awesome Detroit-style, sourdough pizzas offered – and the lobster vodka fra diavalo made with homemade pasta and a whole, spicy, poached lobster, and the spaghetti with Jersey blue crab gravy.
Other menu highlights include Dot’s meatballs made with Joyce Farms beef and Wonder bread; tableside mozzarella stretched and pulled before your eyes accompanied with amazing charcuterie and roasted tomatoes and peppers; the acclaimed chicken parm made with sourdough breadcrumbs, spicy marinara and homemade mozzarella; acqua pazza, my favorite dish featuring sea bass and a broth made with tomato water, lime, chili crisps, herbs, fried shallots and sea beans that is good enough to drink; grilled Australian lamb chops with mint chimichurri and pistachio; and a giant tomahawk steak with koji marinade.
“It’s Italian psychedelic, so the idea is to put a twist on it,” Mollison said. “We want to create something that is a lot familiar, but really different. Everyone has chicken parm, but ours is nuts and totally different from everyone else around Atlantic City. That’s the idea.”
Here to stay
Spiegelworld – and Caesars – are committed to The Hook’s success. With a huge investment in time, money and resources, it’s one of the most ambitious projects in Atlantic City casino history.
There has always been the question if Atlantic City can sustain a year-round attraction like Vegas’ long-running shows? Spiegelworld will put that question to the test. No other show has even attempted to do this since “Legends in Concert” closed on the Claridge stage many moons ago … it has to be at least a decade, if not 15 or more years.
Mollison said he thinks the time is right to prove that a year-long attraction like The Hook can not only survive, but thrive.
“Unless you are a little bit scared, you aren’t really pushing it, are you?” Mollison asked. “All I can say is when I go back to 2011 when we opened in Las Vegas … at the end of our six-month run, most of my partners didn’t want to continue. They said it wasn’t worth it. And I said, ‘I wanna keep going.’ And that was the right decision, and we kept building and building and building. And I feel very confident here. We have been amazed by the response since we launched. I feel like there is nothing better than putting your parky on in the middle of winter and driving down to Atlantic City to have a hot seafood tower and see a show and have a great cocktail. That sounds like a blast to me. We become part of the regular cycle and part of your life and part of the community. Summer is great, but we are something to celebrate for the other six to eight months when it’s not the 100 days of summer. But I am encouraged when I walk up and down the boardwalk and see how it’s getting better and better. I think Atlantic City is on the upswing. It feels to me we are paddling at the right time. We all just need to paddle together and keep building Atlantic City.”
Scott Cronick is an award-winning journalist who has written about entertainment, food, news and more in South Jersey for nearly three decades. He hosts a daily radio show – “Off The Press with Scott Cronick” – 4 to 6 p.m. weekdays on Newstalk WOND 1400-AM, 92.3-FM, and WONDRadio.com, and he also co-owns Tennessee Avenue Beer Hall in Atlantic City, while working on various projects, including charitable efforts, throughout the area. He can be reached at scronick@comcast.net.
