By David Setley
Introducing customers to new wines — either new to the store or new to them — is one of the best aspects of my job. A few days ago, a gentleman asked for recommendations on any lesser-known white wines that I thought he would enjoy. For this week’s article, I’ll share the suggestions I gave in this most recent edition of “the grape unknown.” Allow me to introduce you to rkatsiteli, arneis, and Picpoul.
Rkatsiteli is one of the oldest wine grape varietals still in production and is the most planted grape in the nation of Georgia, specifically in the Caucasus Mountains region between Eastern Europe and Asia. Archaeologists have identified Georgia as one of the world’s original birthplaces of wine production. Evidence has shown that wine has been produced there since approximately 6,000 B.C. That’s over 8,000 years ago! To put this into perspective, the Phoenicians began wine production approximately 4,000 years ago; the Greeks began 3,000 years ago, and the Romans only got involved approximately 2,000 years ago. In the Georgian language, rkatsiteli means red stem. There are more vines of this varietal planted in the world than either pinot gris or cabernet franc, although many wine enthusiasts are unfamiliar with the rkatsiteli grape. In the spirit of full disclosure, I should tell you that my first introduction to rkatsiteli wine was not one from Georgia, but rather the Finger Lakes Region of New York state. It became an instant favorite when it was served at a tasting event at Dr. Konstantin Frank’s winery. The host gave us an unforgettable suggestion on how to pronounce the wine, saying “our cats are on the telly.” Try it!
Rkatsiteli wines are traditionally produced as a skin-contact wine, resulting in an amber color and a richer aroma and flavor than is typically found in most whites. Rather than oak barrels or stainless-steel vats, this wine is fermented in qvevris, an egg-shaped, beeswax-lined terracotta vessel. It truly is a unique white wine. For a bottle straight from the source, I recommend that you try the Rosha Timothee 2020 Rkatsiteli from the Kakheti region of Georgia. It has aromas of guava and passion fruit and flavors of peach, pear, and lemon preserves with a rich, nutty finish. It pairs well with spices that you might find in an Indian or Armenian restaurant, or even with salad or seafoods.
For another unknown white grape, let’s move on to the Piedmont region of Italy in the country’s northwest territory. I’ve mentioned Piedmont frequently in reference to nebbiolo, the red grape used in Barolo. The region also produces the arneis grape, also known as the white barolo or nebbiolo bianco. Native to the Piemonte, arneis dates back to the Roman Empire. Similar to what happened in the Rioja region of Spain, as addressed in last week’s article, many vineyards in the Piedmont were ripped out to plant food or as a result of military activity during the World Wars. Arneis was virtually extinct until the 1960s when a handful of winemakers in the region decided to replant this grape. The recovery has been so impressive that many wine enthusiasts have named arneis the “Comeback Kid.” My recommendation is the Matteo Correggia Roero Arneis 2021. This 100% arneis wine is a rich, bold white wine with aromas and flavors of fresh-cut citrus. It has a notable minerality that harkens back to the sand and silt terroir of the wine region. This delicious, refreshing wine pairs well with vegetables, fish, and shellfish dishes.
The final grape unknown comes from the Languedoc region of southern France. Picpoul de Pinet is both the name of the grape and the wine subregion where this grape is grown. Picpoul wine dates back to the first century B.C. when the Romans built a road connecting Italy to newly conquered regions of Spain. Even today, that road goes directly through this wine region. Vineyards in Picpoul de Pinet are planted on the banks of the Mediterranean Ocean. Traditionally, the bottles used for Picpoul wine are tall, slender, and made of green glass. The words “Picpoul de Pinet” are embossed, along with a cross, on the face of the bottle. Embossed waves are depicted on the bottle’s neck to reflect the region’s proximity to the sea. The name of the wine means “lip stinger” because of its high acidity. But don’t let that image deter you! The acidity results in one of the most refreshing wines that I’ve tried in recent months. The aroma and flavor are very light and crisp, similar to a New Zealand sauvignon blanc but without the strong grapefruit flavor that is often associated with that wine. The palate of a Picpoul is citrus fruit, such as lemon and lime, with a distinctive saline minerality that invokes the sea. This is the perfect wine for oysters but also pairs extremely well with cheese, salad, shrimp, lobster, and grilled fish.
If you enjoy white wine and are looking for something new to you, I hope you will give rkatsiteli, arneis, and Picpoul de Pinet a try. Raise a glass to the white “grapes unknown.” As always, stop in to see me at the store or contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
