By Sarah Fertsch
Staff Writer
In 2022, Christmas often means video-chatting with long-distance grandparents, scouring Amazon for deals, or scrolling TikTok for decor trends. And yet, last Friday, over one thousand people lined up to tour turn-of-the-century Victorian homes.
Carollers dressed in cloaks and bonnets sang ‘Oh Come All Ye Faithful’ on street corners while families orderly stepped onto grand porches, then inside stunning interiors. Volunteers gave a short history lesson while guests awed at the gaslit chandeliers, roaring fireplaces and curved, velvet furniture.
Of course, at the center of every home, hotel or club, a Christmas tree (usually over twelve feet in height) stood proudly. Its branches were each adorned with a variety of unique ornaments: seashells and starfish, glass-blown snowflakes, and dried orange slices. Its earthy, pine scent was intoxicating.
A kind woman in a window handed out cubes of Christmas shortbread and directed guests toward urns of hot chocolate and cider. Warmed by traditional treats and a beauty grounded in history, groups shuffled across the streets to their next elaborately-elegant mansion.
The Christmas by Candlelight Tours by Cape May MAC have been a cherished local event for almost fifty years. Susan Kysiak, the director of media relations for Cape May MAC, said that this is one of her favorite traditions of the year, even when they host over 500 different events between November 18th and Dec. 31st.
The tour is only offered three evenings each year. For 2022, it was Dec. 3, 10, and 17 from 5:30 to 8:30. “The candlelight tour, and many of our similar tours, would not be possible without our wonderful partners, the owners of the properties,” said Kysiak. “The fact that they open up their space and all of its incredible, Victorian charm and holiday jubilee, and welcome thousands, it really makes the event special.”
Jeremiah Katz and his wife Antonia, as well as their group of friends from college, enjoyed the candlelight tour for the first time this past Saturday. The Drexel Hill couple love Cape May during the summer, so they decided to check it out during the holidays.
“It’s great because we usually stay at a bed-and-breakfast and only really marvel at that during our vacation,” he said. “It is such a treat to check out other beautiful homes, which look fantastic under the old-fashioned lights and seasonal garb.”
Different partner properties participate in each of the three nights of the tour, so each experience is unique. Typically between ten and twenty properties are welcoming visitors each night, but due to time constraints, groups will usually only see three to five spaces.
Shore Local News publisher Bob Fertsch and I (Sarah Fertsch) toured seven properties alongside Director Kysiak, guided by her vast knowledge of history and architecture, passion for MAC’s mission (bringing cultural enrichment to Cape May), and her little flashlight that illuminated our path as we trodded down Columbia Avenue in the dark.
Kysiak led us to the Angel of the Sea, Bedford Inn, Mason Cottage, Mainstay Inn, Beauville Bed, Inn of Cape May, and the Emlen Physick Estate.
Angel of the Sea considers itself the most romantic of Cape May’s bed and breakfast inns, with 27 uniquely-decorated private rooms and breathtaking beach views. Theresa Stanton, owner of Angel of the Sea (along with her children Jeff, Matt and Peter) has been working with MAC for the past seven years.
“It’s very exciting to be a part of these community events and Cape May is such a wonderful Christmas town,” said Stanton. “My favorite room here at Angel of the Sea is the parlor because it’s so cozy with the original woodwork and fireplace.”
Amy Lepow of Bucks County, Pennsylvania enjoyed a night out with friends and her twin sister, standing outside of Angel of the Sea, preparing to tour the property. “We booked this experience in August and we have been looking forward to it for months,” said Lepow. “We feel like we are in a Hallmark Movie.”
“We love Cape May. We read about this and snagged tickets early, and we could not be happier,” said Fred Chapman of Doylestown, who was with Lepow. “We have a place in Wildwood so we can go back and forth all the time.”
The Inn of Cape May may be under new ownership, but the property, built in 1894, stands tall like a castle overlooking the waves lapping the sand. Wedding guests sit by fireplaces drinking mulled wine out of glass mugs, smiling down at the visitors participating in the tour.
A pianist plays ‘O Christmas Tree’ while a volunteer guide explains the massive, 19th century safe in the middle of the library, unable to be cracked to reveal its innards. Groups wander up the grand staircase and peek into private rooms, updated to suit the needs of residents of the modern era.
The Mainstay Inn has a bit more of a scandalous history than the other properties. It was established in 1872 as a gentlemen’s club. Philadelphia financiers (who owned summer cottages in Cape May) gambled, smoked cigars and drank whiskey downstairs while ‘working girls’ entertained sailors upstairs.
In 1977, ‘the clubhouse’ was converted into a bed and breakfast, complete with a gloriously-large veranda and garden on historic Columbia Avenue. They are known for their pristine parlor with a 20-foot Christmas tree and bottomless cookie jars available for overnight guests.
The Bedford Inn, an impeccably-restored bed-and-breakfast, was built in 1883 and can host guests in their 10 antique rooms. Music for On the Way to Cape May sits atop a grand piano across from a cozy lanai with a woodburning stove.
In the dining room, guests take in a seashore theme, expressed through a nautical Christmas tree, a classic chandelier, and the incredible mural, done by a Philadelphia artist, which captures the owner’s love for the beach, lighthouses, and dogs.
“We love welcoming guests into this home, and we have participated in every tour as long as we have run the property (four years), even winning an award for our efforts,” said Paula Murray, innkeeper of the Bedford Inn. “We love playing a game with children to see if they can correctly count how many dogs and cats are in the mural. There’s a lot!”
The tour is self-guided, but Cape May MAC prints out a map along with handy tips for getting around. The experience will be different for each group, so make sure to discuss must-do’s before starting your trek.
“Strategy is very important,” said Kysiak. “Look at the map we publish before you arrive so you can figure out where to park and which properties you really wanna see. You can pick up your map and wristband from the Emlen Physick Estate ahead of time. Ask yourself whether you would rather use a trolley or walk to each property.”
Approximately 100 volunteers make the Candlelight tour possible. From directing guests through homes, serving as a traffic guard or shuttle driver, or handing out wristbands, the event is truly a well-oiled machine.
“Cape May’s architecture has been lovingly preserved and is a national historic landmark city, making us one of a kind worldwide,” said Kysiak. “The Candlelight Tour allows folks to imagine what life might have been like in a simpler time. They are transported to another time, forget their troubles, and enjoy their friends and families.”
To purchase tickets for the next Christmas by Candlelight Tour, visit Cape May MAC’s website at https://capemaymac.org/experience/christmas-in-cape-may/.
Sarah Fertsch was born and raised in Egg Harbor Township, and holds a dual degree in public relations and political science. Prior to joining Shore Local full-time, she worked at a CSPAN affiliate, writing about Pennsylvania legislation. When she isn’t writing, Sarah enjoys painting, horseback riding, and Crossfit.
