By David Setley
Saturday, October 14 is International Pinotage Day this year. Pinotage is a lesser-known wine from one of the world’s lesser-known wine regions: South Africa. Many of us think of Africa as being quite hot, yet South Africa, at 33.9 degrees S latitude, has a cool climate. As a result, many of the best wines to come from the country are cooler-climate whites and reds. Pour a glass and let’s explore the wines of South Africa.
I will start this journey with pinotage, arguably one of South Africa’s most unique wines. In the 1920s, a viticultural scientist in South Africa by the name of Abraham Perold experimented in hopes of developing a pinot noir that could succeed in the cool climate. He began by grafting pinot noir and cinsault, a grape varietal from Rhone Valley, France that grew exceptionally well in the South African terroir. Grafting involves taking the grapevine roots from one varietal and attaching them to the grapevine of another to form a new varietal. In South Africa, the cinsault grape was called Hermitage because it was believed to have been initially brought to the country from the Hermitage region of France’s Rhone Valley. The name of Perold’s new varietal became pinotage, representing the combination of pinot noir and Hermitage.
The new grape varietal was unexpected. Darker in color, bolder in flavor, and richer in tannins than either of the parent varietals, pinotage was quite the success. Over the next half century, the wine was mass-produced throughout the country but initially had a bad reputation in the wine industry. The quality of most pinotage wines was poor, and the aroma was described as “burning tires.” Appetizing, isn’t it? It wasn’t until the end of the last century that winemakers realized this great varietal required viticultural artistry to remove the undesirable aroma and obtain the wine’s true potential. Pinotage as we know it today has a dominant flavor profile of dark fruits, like plum and blackberry, with significant notes of sweet tobacco, smoke, and licorice. The tannins are bold and well-structured. A truly great pinotage from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa is the Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2020. This wine is very dry with rich, smooth tannins and well-balanced acidity. The dark fruit aroma and flavor are complemented by notes of oak, vanilla, and coffee. It pairs as nicely with grilled vegetables and poultry as it does with beef and game meat. Find a bottle for Pinotage Day and celebrate this unique wine.
In addition to pinotage, South African winemakers also do an excellent job of making delicious red blends. A favorite among Passion Vine’s customers is the Joostenberg Little J Red 2021. This red is from the Paarl region of the country and is a blend of syrah, cinsault, viognier, and mourvedre. It is an easy-drinking wine with notably lower tannins and a lighter color than pinotage. This blend is dry but without the astringency found in many other dry reds. The aroma and flavor are ripe red fruit, like cherries and red raspberries, with just a hint of leather, smoke, and spice. It is a great fall wine for sitting on the porch or around a campfire and pairs well with vegetarian meals, pork, lamb, and turkey.
Despite my placement of two red wines first in this article, South Africa is more renowned for its white wines than for its reds. Most well-known is South African chenin blanc, a varietal otherwise well-known in the Vouvray region of the Loire Valley of France. Chenin blanc was first identified in South Africa by the head of viticulture at the University of Stellenbosch. By the late 1980s, 1 out of 3 vineyards were planted with chenin blanc, leading to overproduction of the varietal. Although many vines were uprooted as a result, they still account for nearly 20% of the grapes produced in the nation. In 2014, a competition was held to identify the best producers across South Africa, leading to increased efforts to “up their game” in producing quality wine. Hence, South Africa has become widely recognized for excellent chenin blanc. For an affordable and outstanding bottle from the Coastal Region of South Africa, try the Vinecrafter Chenin Blanc 2022. Dry, light, and crisp, this wine has an acidity like what you would find in sauvignon blanc. The aroma and flavors are tree fruits, such as green apple and pear, with notes of citrus and tropical fruit. It pairs perfectly with white fish and chicken but try it as well with sushi or spicy Indian food. I love taking this one to our favorite Indian BYOB restaurant.
If you enjoyed this article, I invite you to stop into the store to discuss South African wines. Or, as always, feel free to contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, Happy Pinotage Day and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
