By Chef Joseph Massaglia
Happy May everyone. The weather is finally getting warmer, some Covid restrictions have been lifted, and we can finally begin to gather with vaccinated family and friends, especially outdoors.
I, for one, am looking forward to entertaining on my patio and serving simple delicious recipes that don’t take a long time to make and can be served warm or at room temperature.
One of my favorite go-to appetizers is a simple classic Fonduta, which is the Italian version of the better-known Swiss Fondue. (Fondue means melted.) Although you may think of fondue as a winter dish, it is a wonderful alterative to a typical cheese board any time of year.
The earliest known recipe for the modern form of cheese fondue comes from a 1699 book published in Zürich under the name “Käss mit Wein zu kochen” ‘to cook cheese with wine’. It called for grated or cut-up cheese to be melted with wine, and for bread to be dipped in it. Then eggs were added somewhere along the line and it became more like scrambled eggs with a cheese sauce. The first known recipe for cheese fondue as we know it today, with cheese and wine but no eggs and actually called Cheese Fondue, was published in 1875.
But no matter how it was invented, the people of the Alpine region have adopted a version of fondue as their own – the cheeses and liquid ingredients may vary, but all are served warm with primarily bread as a dipper.
This recipe for fonduta is typical of my native Alpine region. Located in the area between Valle d’Aosta in the Piedmont in Italy and the Savoia area of the French Alps, it differs from the more famous Swiss Fondue in that it only uses Fontina cheese, doesn’t use wine or cider, and is usually garnished with shaved truffles.
Classic Fonduta uses only Fontina cheese, which is a cow’s milk cheese first produced only in the area of Valle d’Aosta from Pezzata Rossa and Black Pezzata cows. It is a DOP (Denominazione d’Origine Protetta/Protected Designation of Origin) product of Italy, a legal designation by the European Union to designate its authenticity. DOP guarantees that your favorite Italian cheese, prosciutto, olive oil, etc., is produced, processed, and packaged in a specific geographical zone and according to tradition.
Instead of wine or cider, milk and egg yolks (some recipes call for whole eggs) are traditional Fonduta ingredients. And although toasted bread is always an accompaniment, I also like to offer fresh vegetables like carrots, broccoli and snap peas as dippers, along with cut slices of apples or pears (which you brush lightly with lemon juice to prevent browning).
You can serve Fonduta in a classic fondue pot, or you can pour it into heated, shallow bowls. It’s equally delicious both ways.
This recipe for Piedmontese Fondue is one of 600 authentic Italian recipes found on my website – www.joestablefortwo.com. Please give it a try and let me know how you like it.
Be well, be safe, and if you haven’t already done so, please get your Covid vaccinations.
Buon Appetito!
Fonduta – Piedmontese Fondue
Serves 6.
12 ounces Fontina cheese, Italian works best
Some whole milk to cover cheese completely, about 1 cup or a bit more
6 egg yolks, well beaten
1/2 cup (8 tablespoons) butter
1 white truffle, thinly sliced (optional)
1 teaspoon white pepper
Fingers of toasted bread and/or crudités
Remove the rind from the cheese and cut into small dice. Put cheese in a medium bowl and add milk to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and let steep in the refrigerator at least 8 hours or overnight so that some of the milk will be absorbed and cheese softens slightly.
Pour the cheese and milk into the top of a double boiler; place on top of simmering water (not boiling). The top pan should not be touching the hot water.
Add the egg yolks and butter; cook, stirring or whisking constantly, just until the cheese is melted, smooth and creamy. Immediately pour into a deep, heated platter (or your fondue pot), sprinkle with truffle and pepper. Serve with bread and crudités.
Joe’s Table for Two radio show airs Saturday mornings from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on WOND 1400 AM. Website: joestablefortwo.com. Facebook: Joe’s Table for 2 and Eat at Joe’s EHT. Contact Joe: joestablefortwo@gmail.com.
