By David Setley
Had I been asked a few years ago, I would have undoubtedly claimed red wines as my preferred choice. However, as I continue to learn about and taste white wine varietals from around the world, my appetite for whites has risen to a near match. Though you are likely familiar with chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, pinot grigio, and riesling, allow me to introduce you to a few lesser-known white wines. Then, I encourage you to raise a glass on Aug. 4, 2023, to celebrate International White Wine Day.
Gewürztraminer is found in Germany and now also in California. Before you get tongue-tied with pronunciation, I give you my wife’s word game to make it easier: boys are dumb, but “girls are meaner”. Roughly translated, gewürztraminer means “herb-spiced wine” in German, as it often has the aroma of lychee, ginger, and roses with the flavors of pear and light tropical notes. Many of these wines can be a bit sweet and are quite tasty. If you lean toward dry wines, try the Banyan Gewürztraminer, 2021. It’s still a good example of a quality gewürztraminer and pairs nicely with Indian and Middle Eastern meals.
From Spain, I would draw your attention to albariño from the Rias Baixas region. Most wine drinkers think of tempranillos or Riojas from Spain, but the albariño is a must-try. It is a light, dry wine with a lemony flavor and notes of melon. The Rias Baixas region is located along the northern coast of Spain; as such, the acidity of this wine is high and there is a hint of salinity that makes it a great summer white. It pairs extremely well with light white fish, oysters, salads, cheese, and vegetables. If you are as big a fan of fish tacos as I am, albariño may be your next best friend. Try the La Cana Albariño from Rias Baixas, Spain. You won’t be disappointed.
France is well-known for its chardonnay from Burgundy, its sauvignon blanc from Bordeaux or Loire, and its riesling from Alsace…but have you tried viognier or Muscadet? Viognier, perhaps one of France’s most mispronounced wines, has the body of a chardonnay but with a more floral aroma and flavor notes of peach and mango. The Domaine Massiac Viognier is a very reasonably priced and delicious example of this varietal. Try it with roasted or grilled poultry dishes. By the way, it is pronounced, “vee-own-yay.”
The prime region for the Muscadet grape is the Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, near the mouth of the Loire River Valley in France. Muscadet is a cooler-climate white with high acidity and a light body. Although you may be tempted to assume Muscadet is a sweet wine, similar to Moscato, it is actually bone-dry and known more for its minerality than its fruit flavor. The minerality makes Muscadet a perfect match for mussels, clams, oysters, and crab. Try the Domaine de la Bregeonnette Muscadet Sèvre et Maine – it’s outstanding!
In Italy, pinot grigio is the best-known white wine, but there are others to consider. Most wine drinkers know Tuscany as the source of Sangiovese, the foundation grape of Toscana, Chianti and Chianti Classico wine. However, there is also a town in Tuscany, called San Gimignano, which is known for Vernaccia di San Gimignano, a delicious, dry, white wine. Vernaccia is fuller-bodied than pinot grigio, less fruit-forward and more mineral-focused. Though there are light notes of pear and lemon, the prominent flavors are almonds and a light salinity. When I served this wine at a recent event, an attendee exclaimed: “Now I understand what you mean by minerality!” My favorite is the Suavis Vernaccia di San Gimignano. Pair it with fish, chicken, pork, or even pasta dishes like fettuccine Alfredo.
Pecorino is not only a style of cheese, but also one of the interesting grape varietals made into delicious white wine in Italy. The Terre di Chieti region, near Abruzzo, is known for this wine grape. Abruzzo is also famous for the red wine, Montepulciano di Abruzzo. Pecorino wine is floral on the nose with fruit notes of lime, apricot, and banana. Yep, banana. The flavor is light and crisp with a long finish and an overall complexity that rivals red wines. My recommendation is the Pehhcora Pecorino, paired with charcuterie trays or grilled white meats.
I hope that this article encourages you to pop the cork and enjoy an international white wine that you may not have tried previously. Aug. 4 is the perfect day to do it! Feel free to contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
