Drink up
with David Setley
In 2020, cabernet sauvignon surpassed Chardonnay as America’s favorite wine varietal, as seen in both dollar sales and bottles sold. In the United States, sales of cab exceed sales of both red blends and pinot noir. On Aug. 30, we salute this reigning champion with International Cabernet Sauvignon Day. To celebrate, I’ll dive into the history of the wine and provide suggestions on bottles for you to enjoy.
Cabernet sauvignon begins like any other romance. Picture, if you will, a moonlit night in a vineyard in the Bordeaux region of western France. Cabernet Franc, a distinguished gentleman of a red wine grape, saw sauvignon blanc, the beautiful white wine grape, across the vineyard. It was love at first sight, ending in the lovely offspring that is cabernet sauvignon. OK, so I may be romanticizing the viticultural history a touch. However, DNA research done at UC Davis did find scientific evidence to support the union. The report, published in Nature Genetics in May of 1997, declares Cabernet Franc and sauvignon blanc to be the parents of America’s favorite wine.
Although the production of cabernet sauvignon in Bordeaux goes back to the 17th century (at least), it is produced today all over the world. The Judgement of Paris wine event of 1976 – a blind tasting set up in Paris by the late Stephen Spurrier – brought positive attention to California’s wines, including the high-quality cabernet sauvignon being produced there. In an unexpected turn of events, the nine French judges at the event selected a California cab as the best in its category against the French entries. The cab was a 1973 Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon which, at the time, was selling for a fraction of the price of the French competition. The price has obviously increased since its success!
There are many reasons why cabernet sauvignon is so popular. The wine is dry and full-bodied. It has medium-plus tannins and medium to medium-plus acidity. Cabernet sauvignon is typically high in alcohol. The traditional flavor is ripe, dark red fruit with notes of baking spices and oak. It is everything that wine enthusiasts of “big red” wines love. An interesting aroma characteristic of this wine is often referred to as pencil shavings. Remember sharpening pencils using the old-style sharpeners mounted on classroom walls? Even those of you who used automatic sharpeners are probably familiar with that blended smell of wood and graphite shavings. Next time you open a cabernet sauvignon, see if you can pick out this distinct aroma.
For International Cabernet Sauvignon Day, your options are nearly endless for what you could open. Let’s start in its place of origin with the Chateau Carbonneau La Verriere 2020, AOP (Appellation d’Origine Protégée) from Sainte-Foy Cote de Bordeaux, France. In traditional Bordeaux style, this is actually a blended red wine with 80% cabernet sauvignon and 20% merlot. It is a Left Bank wine and, as such, is cabernet dominant; right bank wines tend to be merlot dominant. The Chateau Carbonneau La Verriere is full-bodied with a long finish and has bold flavors of dark fruit, oak, light tobacco, licorice, and chocolate.
Alternatively, go to the California section of the wine store for a great selection. The Juggernaut Hillside Cabernet Sauvignon 2021 is one of my favorites. The tannins are well-structured and the acidity is medium. The flavor is rich and velvety with notes of dark fruit, vanilla, and anise. The winery ages the wine in 100% French oak for 11 months, resulting in an oak flavor and aroma that does not overwhelm the fruit. As the lion on the label implies, Juggernaut is fierce and beautifully created.
Duckhorn Wine Company is a fixture in Sonoma County. The 2020 Decoy Cabernet Sauvignon is an outstanding, yet reasonably priced example of why this company is iconic. This very dry and bold wine has the classic tannic structure and acidity that makes the cab varietal so famous. The aroma includes cigar box/tobacco, toffee, and blackberry while the flavor has notes of dark cherries, raspberries, baking spice and chocolate. The oak is beautifully integrated into the overall flavor and finish of this delicious wine.
Another of my favorite cabs is the Daou Cabernet Sauvignon from Paso Robles. This region is becoming as famous for big cabs as Napa and Sonoma are. The palate of the Daou is rich and weighty, with flavors of black raspberry, spicy currant, blueberry, fig, and baking spices. Smooth tannins lead to a long finish with lingering notes of cherry, espresso and vanilla. Treat yourself to this truly outstanding wine.
If you’re looking for a cabernet sauvignon from somewhere other than France or California, Lobetia has a very nice and reasonably priced option from Dominio de Punctum winery in Tierra de Castilla, Spain. This wine is made with organic grapes, is biodynamically farmed, and is vegan with all the classic aromas and flavors of a good cab. Or, the Substance Cabernet Sauvignon from Columbia Valley, Washington has class characteristics of the varietal and was actually used as an example in the Sommelier program I completed. Lastly, try the Cocodrilo Corte from Mendoza Argentina, produced by the famous winemaker Paul Hobbs. The Cocodrilo Corte is a classic Bordeaux-style blend of 72% cabernet sauvignon, 18% malbec, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% petit verdot. It is a dark ruby color and has a bold, rich flavor with an intense long-lasting finish. Each of these wines is evidence that excellent cabernet sauvignon can be made in many regions of the world when under the care of a great winemaker.
For my fellow red wine lovers, I hope this article encourages you to pick up a bottle (or two) for International Cabernet Sauvignon Day. Feel free to contact me with any questions, or let me know what your favorite cab is, at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
