By Chef Joseph Massaglia
If you thought Fra Diavolo was a spicy sauce, you are partially correct. Fra Diavolo also was one angry man.
In Naples in the 1770s there lived a young boy by the name of Michele Pezza. He nearly died from a childhood illness and as part of an old Italian tradition, he and other youngsters who recovered from serious illness were dressed as monks on the second Sunday after Easter for a procession in honor of the patron saint of sick children, St. Francis of Paola. Michele was apparently such a notorious handful on these solemn occasions that someone labeled him “fra diavolo,” meaning “brother devil.”
This highly combustible nickname stuck and, in an extreme example of a self-fulfilling prophecy, Pezza became an infamous hothead and ferocious Italian bandit known as Fra Diavolo. In 1798 he was pardoned for two murders and hired to lead Italian guerilla forces fighting against the French who were invading Naples; the French ultimately won. Pezza continued for years to try to overthrow the invasion, but ultimately was captured and hung in Naples in a public marketplace. His life story is fascinating, one I think you’d enjoy learning more about.
Today, Fra Diavolo refers to a spicy tomato sauce served over linguine or spaghetti. The sauce is made by sautéing chopped onions in butter and olive oil, then adding tomatoes (canned or fresh), crushed red pepper, garlic, white wine and seafood. (Some versions of Chicken Fra Diavolo are made without tomato sauce.)
But what sets it apart from similar sauces is the recipe’s heavy use of chilies or red pepper flakes, which deliver the infamous heat, and its use primarily with seafood. Lobster Fra Diavolo was probably the original recipe developed by Italian-Americans in the 1940s-1950s. However, variations like Shrimp Fra Diavolo and Seafood Fra Diavolo, made with clams, mussels, scallops, and calamari, also appear on many menus.
But what, you may ask, about Arrabiata sauce, which also is hot and spicy? The name of that sauce comes from the Italian arrabbiata, which means angry. Arrabiata sauce is a light marinara or red sauce, minus any seafood, that may have originated in the Lazio region of Central Italy. It was perfected in Rome in the 1920s by chef Antonio Cecchini, whose restaurant was appropriately called “Le Arrabbiate.”
When you eat Pasta Arrabiata, you can twirl it with a knife and fork. But with Pasta Fra Diavolo, you get most of the seafood in the shell, so you may need to use your hands to get all the delicious morsels out of their shells.
Seafood Fra Diavolo is available at my restaurant, Mama Mia’s in Marmora. Since shrimp are available at a more reasonable price than lobster, I’ve included a recipe here for Shrimp Fra Diavolo from Giada De Laurentis. I hope you enjoy it.
Buon Appetito!
Shrimp Fra Diavolo
Giada De Laurentis
- 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and deveined
- 1 teaspoon salt, plus additional as needed
- 1 teaspoon dried, crushed red pepper flakes
- 3 tablespoons olive oil, plus 1 to 2 tablespoons
- 1 medium onion, sliced
- 1 (14-1/2 ounce) can diced tomatoes
- 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- 1/4 teaspoon dried oregano leaves
- 3 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
- 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves
- Spaghetti or linguine, if desired
1. Toss the shrimp in a medium bowl with 1 teaspoon salt and red pepper flakes.
2. Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the shrimp and sauté for about a minute, Toss and continue cooking until just cooked through, about 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer to a large plate; set aside.
3. Add the onion to the same skillet, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan, if necessary. Sauté until translucent, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes with their juices, wine, garlic and oregano. Simmer until the sauce thickens, about 10 minutes.
4. Return the shrimp and any accumulated juices to the tomato mixture; toss to coat, and cook for about a minute so the flavors meld together.
5. Stir in the parsley and basil. Season with more salt, to taste, and serve plain or over pasta.
Joe’s Table for Two radio show airs Saturday mornings from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on WOND 1400 AM. Website: joestablefortwo.com. Facebook: Joe’s Table for 2. Contact Joe: joestablefortwo@gmail.com.
