By Jim Munroe
The Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge is over 47,000 acres of forested areas and wetlands, moor and alluvial plains, comprising fresh and salt water. It was originally called the Brigantine National Wildlife Refuge which was founded in 1939. In 1984, the Barnegat NWR established in 1967, was combined with the Brigantine Refuge to form the Edwin B. Forsythe National Wildlife Refuge.
The refuge is named for New Jersey Congressman Edwin B. Forsythe, who was known for his conservation work, which included the Marine Mammal Protection Act, the National Environmental Protection Act, and the Endangered Species Act. He fought diligently against ocean dumping from North Jersey and New York. In addition, he was a sponsor of the Magnuson Fishery Conservation and Management Act of 1977, which established a 200 mile fishery zone, and Exclusive Economic Zone. He died in 1984.
On December 18, 1986, Edwin B. Forsythe National Refuge was designated a Ramsar site, a “Wetlands of International Importance.”
Coming off of Route 9 in Oceanville, make a right onto Great Creek Road. Travelling down the road, the Refuge Headquarters will be on the right, while the Visitors Center will be cattycorner on your left. The Visitors Center is currently closed due to Covid. There is parking, including handicapped in this area, along with bathroom facilities.
The entrance fee sign and collection deposit are on the right, and then enter the Refuge proper. Allow about two hours for the trip.
On your right, with parking, is a 300 to 400-hundred-foot boardwalk area, the Leeds Eco-Trail, with two stationary but adjustable binoculars for adults and children, for looking over the marsh areas and the Osprey nest. The Osprey nest has an Osprey camera for viewing online.
There is also the Akers Woodland Trail here. Notice the Blue Goose designated 1. The different numbered Blue Goose signs serve as a marker-guide for the Refuge. The Blue Goose is the official symbol of the National Wildlife Refuge system, and was designed by Ding Darling, who won two Pulitzer Prizes for his cartoons. He also drew the first Duck Stamp. The Duck Stamp program was begun is 1934, and is used to protect over 5 and a half million acres of habitat for birds and other species.
Heading left from this area, there is a weather station-pollution monitor station on your left. Go straight towards the Observation Tower, Blue Goose 2. The Gull Pond with fresh water is on the left, where you are likely to see herons strolling around, looking for lunch, while the Vogt Pool South, formerly West Pool, is on the right. The tall light brown reeds with bushy tops are Phragmites, an invasive species. Climbing the Tower will give a nice view of the area, including marshes and woodlands, and different birds in the area, including ducks, swans, herons, blackbirds and Ospreys in season.
Circling around the Tower, and returning toward the Drive, make a left onto the Drive. All of this will be a gravel road., and a 15 MPH speed limit. Now the Vogt Pool is on the left, while on the right are tidal marshes and salt water coves, along with cord grass and other marsh plants. At low tide, you will probably see terns, sandpipers, sanderlings and other shore birds or their tracks in the mud.
While Blue Goose 6 is for the South Tower, Blue Goose 7 is Turtle Cove, and on the right. In May through September, turtles, horseshoe crabs and other marine and avian species lay their eggs, with May and June being the time of highest activity. Please watch out for Turtles crossing the road at these times. I saw the remains of two Turtles run over this year at Forsythe. Also, on the left in between the two signs is the Cross Dike, which is closed to the public. This and the other dikes are used to control the water levels.
At Blue Goose 9, this was originally a part of the railroad line for Brigantine Island, and was demolished in a major 1903 storm. Now it is part of the dike system.
Blue Goose 11 is where the water level is controlled for the East Pool. The tidal flow brings new food sources here, and will usually attract a number of different species of birds, such as egrets, herons, cormorants and mergansers.
The other end of the Cross Dike is Blue Goose 13, and divides the salt and fresh water pools, East Pool and West Pool respectively. Because of the work of two conservationists, the East Pool is also called the Danzenbaker Pool, while the West Pool is called the Vogt Pool. The East Pool is on the Ocean side and is salt water, while the West Pool is closest to the Mainland and is fresh.
Two of the Hiking trails are at Blue Goose 16 and are called Jen’s Trail, and the Bristow Trail. Jen’s Trail is short, while the Bristow Trail is almost three miles long. Take appropriate measures as tick season is year-round, and summer time is the worse. Also, there will be the usual insects.
Greenheads are in a league all their own, and are active from June until September, being most active in July. The females have to have blood for the young, sort of like vampires. Another fly species common to Forsythe usually does not bite, but likes to get inside the car. I think the best option is to keep the windows up for the ride. Unfortunate, but practical.
Osprey season is from March until September, with egg laying and raising young occurring from April to June, then fledging starts after about a month and a half. There are a number of different Osprey platform nest sites at Forsythe that can be seen from the Drive. The first one is by Leeds Eco Trail/boardwalk, while most of the others are on the first part of the Drive on the right hand side.
During the winter, almost half of the black ducks in the US winter in New Jersey, with Forsythe hosting many. Over half of the Atlantic brant are also in New Jersey, and are at Forsythe in large numbers. This was the original reason why Forsythe was founded, because this was one of the last remaining areas for these birds. Forsythe is a major part of the Atlantic Flyway, one of the main migratory flyways for birds in North America. The other flyways are the Mississippi, Central and Pacific flyways, respectively.
In the spring, the spring migratory season starts, with Ospreys being a big attraction. The Osprey has been doing a lot better since DDT was banned. The egg shells were too brittle to bear the weight of the brooding parent. There were an estimated 500 Osprey nests in New Jersey in the 1950’s, and roughly 200 are in use now. The beach nesting birds are returning, along with Purple Martins that have nest boxes by the Refuge Headquarters. Mating calls are occasionally heard, some from humans.
During summer, this year’s hatchlings are starting to or are finished fledging, and are mostly full grown. There is a big display of Marshmallow flowers at the Observation Tower, Blue Goose 2.
A large number of different bird species are around including Great Blue and White Herons, Snowy Egrets, Ospreys, Hawks, Owls and songbirds. Turtles are also around so keep an eye open. An occasional deer or fox can be seen, along with muskrat and frogs. This is also the season of Mosquitos, Greenheads, ticks and other pests, so take precautions.
In the autumn, the migratory birds will begin to leave, the colors will change, days will shorten and temperatures will be lower. Swans, Geese, Ducks will be around, and butterflies will be going south, but will return in the next spring.
There was a great deal of damage done to Forsythe, along with many other areas of New Jersey from Hurricane Sandy. Among other items, gas tanks, parts of docks and boats, over 1,500 tires, propane tanks and other assorted debris not suitable for a natural setting ended up at Forsythe. There was about 1900 tons of debris removed from the Refuge, over a course of almost two years.
Drones are not permitted, along with unleashed pets. Also, no fires or motorcycles. The entrance fee is $4.00 per car load. There is a $12.00 annual pass, which I think is a good deal.
There have been reported sightings of a giant Hound seen on the moor, but the staff denies all knowledge of such sightings.
Refreshments, binoculars and cameras are all that you will need.
The Refuge is open every day from sunup to sundown.
