By David Setley
March is Women’s History Month when we recognize the achievements and contributions of women in all aspects of business and society. International Women’s Day, an annual celebration on March 8, dates back to 1911 for Austria, Switzerland, Germany, and Denmark. The United Nations and the United States began recognizing the holiday in 1975. In this article, I will pay homage to some of the female wine heroes I have come to know this year and will acknowledge their contributions to global viticulture.
My first honoree was born in France but has sparkled in the California wine industry. Pauline Lhote is the lead winemaker of sparkling wines (see what I did there?) at Domaine Chandon. Born near the Champagne region of France, growing sparkling wine grapes was second nature to Lhote. Making her story all the more interesting, she was actually inspired to pursue her bubbly dream by the first female winemaker for Chandon: Dawnine Dyer. Pauline went on to work for two outstanding Champagne producers in France — Moët & Chandon and Nicolas Feuillatte — before landing her current position at Domaine Chandon. Regarding her success in the wine industry, Lhote is quoted as saying, “It is important to be strong, confident, and assertive, especially when you are a young woman in the male-dominated industry.” To experience her sparkling wine prowess, try the 2023 Champagne and Sparkling World Championship Silver Medal winner: Chandon By the Sea. This 100 percent Chardonnay sparkling wine is a delicious tribute to the cool climate and terroir of Carneros, Calif.
My next three honorees can be found at the Elena Walch Winery in Italy’s Alto-Adige region. The region is famous for Pinot Grigio, and some of the finest may be found at this outstanding winery which is jointly operated by Elena and her two daughters, Karoline and Julia. Elena Walch is a legend in Alto-Adige. Unlike many in the industry, she was not born into the world of wine; she married into it. As a result, she was not burdened by preconceived ideas of managing a winery. Her innovation into high-density planting and reconfiguring the vineyard’s vine training systems have become standard viticultural techniques which have earned the praise of her peers and improved the quality of wine for the entire region. Karoline and Julia completed their college studies outside of Italy and interned in wine regions as diverse as Bordeaux and Australia. They are now sharing what they learned at their family winery. If you enjoy Pinot Grigio, please try the Elena Walch Selezione Alto Adige Pinot Grigio. Doing so ensures that the female-led winery will continue to prosper into the next generation.
In Australia, Steph Dutton is impressing the wine world as a winemaker at the nation’s renowned Penfolds Winery. Dutton is quickly growing in recognition for her innovation and her passion for excellence in winemaking. At Penfolds, she is respected for her dedication to quality and her focus on finding and utilizing the latest technology that the industry has to offer to continuously improve the wine coming out of this famous Australian winery. An example of her innovation was the “Wines of the World” project, in which her goal was to make a high-quality Penfolds wine with grapes from two continents. In 2018, Steph and her team went to Paso Robles and Napa Valley in California to harvest Cabernet Sauvignon to blend with the Penfolds Shiraz grape that was harvested in Australia. Nothing like this had ever been attempted. To experience the work of this outstanding winemaker, try the Koonunga Hill Shiraz or a bottle of Max’s Cabernet Sauvignon, named for Max Shubert, Penfold’s Chief Winemaker from 1948-1975.
My final honoree is in South America’s Bodega Catena Zapata in the Medoza wine region of Argentina. Dr. Laura Catena has been called “the face of Argentine wine” for her active role in studying and promoting the Mendoza wine region and Argentine wine. Catena graduated magna cum laude from Harvard University in 1988 and has a medical degree from Stanford University. In 1995, Dr. Catena joined her father, Nicolás Catena Zapata, at the family winery and founded the Catena Institute of Wine with a vision to improve the quality of all Argentine wines. She currently serves as the managing director of the winery and works closely with the winemakers to maximize the benefits of the region’s terroir. Her book, “Vino Argentino: An Insider’s Guide to the Wines and Wine Country of Argentina,” has been featured in Oprah Magazine, the New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, The San Francisco Chronicle, Decanter Magazine, Food & Wine Magazine, Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, and Wine Advocate. Try the Catena High Mountain Vines Malbec or the Catena High Mountain Vines Chardonnay. Both are excellent examples of Argentine wine at its best!
Cheers to all women and the distinguished women of wine mentioned above. As always, if you have any questions or comments, contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com or stop by the Somers Point store. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
