By David Setley
A few weeks ago, wine enthusiasts celebrated International White Wine Day. On August 28, red wines have their day! I’ve seen a few recent surveys that claim approximately 60% of Americans prefer red wines to white; my interactions with customers in the store support this finding. While most of us are familiar with cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir as the reigning champions of red wine, let’s focus on some less famous outstanding reds in celebration of International Red Wine Day.
If I were a betting man, I would wager that most of you have not heard of cinsault. The cinsault grape is found in many countries, including South Africa and the United States, as well as in its region of origin: the Rhone Valley of France. Wine made from the cinsault grape is medium-bodied and dry, with a floral aroma and a fresh red fruit flavor with notes of black tea and a touch of baking spices. The Turley Cinsault 2022, from the Bechthold Vineyard in Lodi, California, is a great example of a cinsault made by an outstanding producer. The vineyard from which the grapes are cultivated was initially planted in 1886; the wine is aged in 100% French Oak for 7 months. The result is a well-balanced wine with a complexity of fruit, earth, and spice that demonstrates the benefits of vines that have such a long history. I recommend chilling the Turley Cinsault 2022 slightly to about 50 to 60 degrees and enjoying it with anything from fish and vegetable platters to lamb or poultry.
An underappreciated but truly great wine is petite sirah. This grape originated in France, where it was known as “Durif,” and was a hybrid of syrah and peloursin, a very rare grape. In modern times, the petite sirah grape is grown almost exclusively in California. My favorite is the J. Lohr Tower Road 2020 Petite Sirah from Paso Robles. Paso Robles is among the fastest-growing wine regions in California as winemakers become more aware of the unique microclimate that exists there. The intense sunshine and hot afternoons followed by evening breezes from the Monterey Bay and relatively cool, misty mornings create the perfect conditions to grow high-tannin reds. Petite sirah wines are dark red, full-bodied, high-tannin, medium-acidity, and high-alcohol wines. The flavor is rich and bold with notes of dark red fruits, black tea, chocolate, and black pepper. Try the J. Lohr Tower Road with grilled or barbecued meats, or simply enjoy a glass on its own on the porch or by the campfire.
In Italy, the sangiovese and nebbiolo grapes are best known for the great Chianti, Toscana, and Barolo wines produced. Allow me to introduce you to another red wine of note. Aglianico (the ‘g’ is not pronounced) is widely grown in Campania, the region south of Rome but north of the Amalfi Coast. It produces a full-bodied, high-tannin red wine with a deep color that has a surprisingly light and easy-drinking mouthfeel. With flavors that are more earthy than fruity, it boasts classic Italian aromas and flavors of leather, smoke, tobacco, forest floor, black pepper, and baking spices, as well as mild notes of dark fruits such as black cherries, dried cranberries, and black plums. The Rocca Del Dragone 2020 Aglianico is a great and affordable consideration from Campania. It is full-bodied, yet incredibly smooth and elegant, and pairs well with meats or charcuterie.
In France, pinot noir from Burgundy, Grenache and syrah from the Rhone Valley, and cabernet and merlot from Bordeaux are among the most famous reds. I urge you to give Cabernet Franc a try. Cabernet Franc is the father of cabernet sauvignon, where sauvignon blanc is the mother. The Chinon region in the Loire Valley of France is the region most known for producing this medium-bodied, medium-tannin red. Coming from a cooler region with a shorter growing season, the most notable characteristic of this wine is its high acidity. On the nose, Cabernet Franc has herbal and floral aromas with notes of green bell pepper. On the palate, you will notice an acidity higher than most red wines with flavors of strawberries and red raspberries and a touch of cayenne in the finish. The Cabernet Franc grape is frequently a supporting actor in many Bordeaux red blends; if you’d like to try it as a lead actor, pick up the Domaine De La Mariniere Chinon 2021. (In traditional old-world style, Cabernet Franc wines are often known by their regional identity more than their grape varietal.) The Domaine De La Mariniere Chinon 2021 comes from a vineyard that began as a family farm in 1965, transitioned to wine-growing in the early 1980s, and became a fully organic operation, earning organic certification for the vineyard, in 2018. Theirs is an excellent representation of Cabernet Franc!
One final lesser-known red that is loved by those who have discovered it is South Africa’s dominant red wine grape: pinotage. Pinotage was originally thought to be a hybrid of pinot noir and hermitage, a syrah grape from the Northern Rhone Valley of France. However, improved scientific processes recently revealed it not to be a hybrid with syrah, but rather with cinsault, the first grape discussed in this article. This is a nearly black grape and the resulting wine is among the darkest, most opaque red wines you will experience. The Kanonkop Kadette Pinotage 2020 from the Stellenbosch region of South Africa is a great example of the varietal with bold flavors of black plum, blackberries, tobacco and smoke, with a touch of licorice. Pinotage is the best friend of all barbequed meats.
For my fellow red-wine lovers, I hope this article encourages you to get out of your comfort zone and try a new, lesser-known varietal to celebrate International Red Wine Day. Feel free to contact me with any questions at dsetley@passionvines.com, or stop into the store. Until next time, happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
