By Chef Joseph Massaglia
If you grew up in an Italian home, I’m sure your Nona or Mother told you never, ever mix seafood and cheese, and if you did it in front of them I’m sure they whisked your dish away faster than you could say you were sorry. Did you ever ask why the two shouldn’t be mixed? And where did this rule begin? And are there exceptions? Of course there are!
Throughout the world there are many examples of dishes combining seafood and cheese. In Greece they serve Garides Saganaki (broiled shrimp, tomatoes and feta cheese); France has Moules au Roquefort (mussels, white wine and strong blue cheese); Mexico serves fish tacos with chihuahua cheese; and here in the United States we enjoy bagels with lox and cream cheese. And who doesn’t like Lobster Thermidor, made with both Parmesan and Gruyere cheeses, or Crab au Gratin. And what about pizza with anchovies!
This ancient Italian culinary doctrine may have gotten started because of geography. The primary Italian cheese-making regions such as Piedmont, Lombardy and Veneto are all landlocked and quite distant from the sea. But their land is well-suited for grazing livestock, which gives them an abundance or meat and, of course, dairy products. Their cuisines include many kinds of cheeses in their recipes, including Grana Padano and Asiago. So, they would never have thought to mix cheese and seafood.
In regions close to the sea, it is thought that people didn’t mix cheese and seafood because they thought the strong flavor of cheeses would overpower seafood’s delicate flavor.
In fact, some restaurants here in the United States print “no cheese served on fish” on their menus. And I know of a restaurant in Philadelphia where the owner comes to each table and tells customers he will not supply Parmesan cheese when asked if the diners order a seafood dish. True story!
But there are two places in Italy which made an exception to this “rule” – Sicily and Sardinia. Both of these islands have a history of dairy, primarily from sheep, and cheesemaking. And, of course, they are surrounded by the sea. So they have always combined cheese and seafood.
In fact, according to the website Tuscan Traveler, Robert Trachtenberg, writing Just Grate in the NY Times, found the oldest surviving “Sicilian recipe — from around 400 B.C. — for fish: ‘Gut. Discard the head, rinse, slice; add cheese and oil.’”
At my restaurant, I serve a Sardinian shrimp and cheese dish that is one of our best sellers. Shrimp Sardagola includes both Parmesan and ricotta cheeses. Jumbo shrimp are dredged in Parmesan cheese and sautéed just until the shrimp are cooked, then added to a sauce made with fresh basil, garlic, roasted cherry tomatoes, scallions, white wine, and lemon zest. In true Sardinian tradition, ricotta cheese is folded into the sauce instead of cream, and the entire dish is served over linguine.
Mama Mia is that delicious!
If you’re interested in classic old-fashioned Italian regional recipes, please visit my website: www.joestablefortwo.com. Go to the food tab and you’ll find over 600 recipes from every region in Italy.
I also have many traditional Italian regional recipes on my menu at Mama Mia’s in Marmora. Stop by and have lunch or dinner in our new, tented outdoor section, or call ahead and order for pickup or delivery. We would love to see you.
Buon Appetito!
Mama Mia’s Restaurante is open 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. for Take-Out, Curbside No-Hands Pick-Up, and Delivery to Marmora, Ocean City, Beesley’s Point, Petersburg, Seaville and more! Mama’s Take Home Pizza Kits also available; please call to reserve yours. The One and Only Original Mama Mia’s Restaurante in the Marmora Shopping Center. 609-624-9322 www.mamamiasnj.com
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