By David Setley
As the days get shorter, the breezes get cooler and the leaves slowly begin to change, we will soon be exchanging our shorts and tees for jeans and sweaters. Our palates begin to change as well, as we seek out warm comfort foods and savory seasonings. This week, I will feature some must-try wines for the fall season, along with foods that pair well with them.
Wine enthusiasts do not follow the same rules as fashion critics when it comes to avoiding whites after Labor Day. Although lighter whites, like sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio, may be put away after summer, fuller-bodied white wines still have a place at the table in the fall and winter. Remember the 1966 Simon and Garfunkel classic “Scarborough Fair”, in which parsley, sage, rosemary, and thyme were immortalized? These herbs, along with tarragon, are the seasonings most synonymous with fall. If your dining plans include vegetable-based dishes (i.e. butternut squash soup, potato au gratin, or roasted Brussel sprouts), or meats using any of these herbs, consider pairing it with a viognier or chardonnay.
Viognier is a thick-skinned white varietal that is grown in various regions of France, most pervasively in the Languedoc-Roussillon region along the Mediterranean Sea. Although the wine has the sweet aroma of honeysuckle and tropical fruit, it is quite dry with flavors of stone fruits and the minerality of savory herbs and sea mist. Similar to chardonnay, viognier is traditionally aged in French oak barrels to impart light oak notes on the palate. However, it is not nearly as oaky as is often found with California chards. A wonderful example of this varietal is the Domaine Massiac Viognier from the Minervois subregion of the Languedoc. This wine is organic and made from 100% Viognier grapes.
Chardonnay, although produced around the world, is most known by its French and California options. If you prefer the more buttery, oaky California version of this varietal, there is no shortage of options. My recommendation for the fall season is the Raeburn Chardonnay from the Russian River Valley of Sonoma County. This award-winning wine is 100% chardonnay and is grown using sustainable viticulture practices. The flavors are apple and nectarine with notes of vanilla and oak. If you enjoy the body and intensity of Chardonnay but would prefer one without the oak, I recommend the Jean-Paul Brun Terres Dorées Chardonnay Beaujolais Blanc. This French white is also organic and 100% Chardonnay. If you haven’t tried this Beaujolais Blanc, this season is the perfect time to do so.
Despite these whites being quite appropriate for fall, you may simply prefer to pick up a bottle of red as the air gets cooler. If your culinary thoughts are moving to meatloaf, pot roast, sausages, or mushroom dishes, I’d encourage you to direct your wine thoughts to a barbera from the Piedmont region of northern Italy. Nebbiolo is the red varietal most often referenced from this region, but barbera is the dinner staple to Italians there. Barbera is a medium-bodied wine, though it has a deep red color and rich, dark fruit flavor that you might expect from more full-bodied reds. Barbera is typically aged in oak barrels and has the dryness and oaky notes commonly experienced with a nice cabernet sauvignon. The medium tannins and acidity make barbera an easy-drinking wine that is arguably the best friend of traditional fall foods. Try the Pelissero Barbera d’Alba Piani. If you prefer an equally easy drinking red with less acidity and more tannins, try a dolcetto like the Brovia-Dolcetto d’Alba Vignaville. Although dolcetto means “little sweet one,” this wine is a classic dry Italian red that is perfect for heavier menus.
If, on the other hand, your culinary thoughts are leaning toward roasted poultry but your preference is still red wine, carignan is for you. The Domaine La Manarine Le Carignan from the Rhone Valley of France is my choice. This carignan has a deep color, medium acidity and plenty of tannic structure. The fruit is ripe cranberries and raspberries with notes of baking spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg, and ginger. Although it is a bit early, consider carignan for your Thanksgiving shopping list. It is one of the best red wines for the traditional holiday feast.
If you enjoyed this article and would like to try some great fall wines, I invite you to register for our “Ladies’ Night” fall wine-tasting event on Thursday, Oct. 19 at 6:30 p.m. By the way, gentlemen are welcome to join their ladies at this event. If interested, register at passionvines.com/events. As always, stop in at the store to see me or contact me at dsetley@passionvines.com. Until next time, happy fall y’all and happy wining!
David Setley is enjoying his retirement from higher education as a wine educator and certified sommelier at Passion Vines in Somers Point, New Jersey.
