By Chef Joseph Massaglia
Those of you who listen to my radio show know that I always bring my homemade potato gnocchi, topped with my famous Mama Sauce, to the studio to serve to my guests. Made properly, these little, light, airy dumplings, usually made with potatoes, are “little pillows of heaven.”
It’s believed gnocchi originated in Northern Italy (my native region) and the name is thought to have come from the word nocca, which means knuckles, or the Lombard word knohha, which means knot – like a knot of wood. Gnocchi have been a traditional type of Italian pasta since Roman times and were originally made from semolina flour mixed with eggs.
In the early 1500s, gnocchi were made with bread, milk and ground almonds and called zanzarelli. Later, a mixture of eggs, flour and water were added to the zanzarelli and the dough was pushed through a cheese grater and called “malfatti” (meaning badly made).
Although Spanish explorers brought potatoes back to Italy from South America in the 16th century, it took until the 18th century for potato gnocchi recipes to appear because for those two centuries Italians were suspicious and fearful of potatoes. In fact, during that time, potatoes were only used as animal fodder, to feed prisoners of war and sustenance for the starving.
Depending on the region of Italy gnocchi are made with a variety of base ingredients including pumpkin, semolina flour, chestnut flour, ricotta and corn meal. Some recipes even include sour cream. Not only does each region have its own gnocchi recipe, they each have their own specific sauce.
In the Piedmontese, my home region, we toss gnocchi in a simple sauce of butter, sage and Parmesan. In Verona they prefer a fresh tomato sauce, and in Sorrento they love their gnocchi “alla sorrentina” – potato gnocchi baked with tomato sauce, mozzarella and basil.
During the summer my favorite way to eat gnocchi is with a classic basil (or even sun-dried tomato) pesto. However, with the colder weather upon us I like to serve my potato gnocchi with my original Mama Sauce.
I’ve included my potato gnocchi and Mama Sauce recipes here, but gnocchi also are delicious served with browned butter, sage and chives; Napolitano sauce (crushed tomatoes, garlic, crushed red pepper and olive oil); or Bava sauce (a light white sauce made with cream, butter, sage, fontina and Parmesan to which broccoli florets are added.) Gnocchi Bava, which is from my home in Valle D’Aosta, has been on Mama Mia’s menu since the first day I opened.
Buon Appetito!
Chef Joe Massaglia’s
Original Recipe for
Mama Mia’s Potato Gnocchi
with Mama Sauce
- 4 large russet (not Yukon Gold) potatoes, unpeeled
- 2 tablespoons butter
- 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg
- Salt and pepper to taste
- 2 large eggs plus 1 egg yolk
- 1 to 1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour, divided
Line a baking sheet with parchment or waxed paper and dust with flour; set aside.
Pierce potatoes in several places with a fork; microwave on high for 8 to 10 minutes or until soft. (Or bake in a 375° oven until tender.) Cool slightly; remove skins while potatoes are still hot.
Immediately put the potatoes through a ricer into a large bowl. Mix in the butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper until combined; add eggs and egg yolk and combine with a spatula. Mix in 1-1/4 cups flour until a soft, not sticky, dough is formed. (Depending on the starch content of the potatoes you may need to add more flour, a tablespoon at a time, until you get the proper consistency.)
Put dough on a floured surface; gently roll into a circle 3/4-inch thick. (Important: Before making all the gnocchi, cut two or three 1/2-inch pieces from the circle, shape and test in boiling water to make sure they don’t fall apart. If they do you will need to add more flour to the dough before cutting.)
Cut dough into 1-inch ropes, then cut each rope into 1/2-inch pieces. Shape gnocchi by pressing onto the tines of a floured fork or gnocchi paddle. Using light to medium pressure, roll the gnocchi on the fork or paddle to create a ridged surface. Place rolled gnocchi on prepared baking sheet.
Bring 4 quarts of salted water to a boil in a large pot. Using a slotted spoon or spider add half the gnocchi to the water; return to a boil and cook, gently stirring occasionally, until they float to the surface. Continue cooking 1 to 2 minutes, until done. Repeat with remaining gnocchi.
If using immediately, add cooked gnocchi to your prepared sauce and serve with additional grated Parmesan cheese.
Note:
*Cooked gnocchi can be cooled completely on lightly oiled parchment-covered baking sheet, covered with plastic wrap and stored in the refrigerator for up to 24 hours.
*Uncooked gnocchi can be frozen on the prepared baking sheet, transferred to a resealable plastic bag and frozen up to 1 month. Thaw about an hour before cooking in boiling water so they don’t become gummy.
Chef Joe Massaglia’s Original Mama Sauce
- 1 medium onion, chopped and caramelized*
- 3 tablespoons (3 ounces) butter
- 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
- 1 teaspoon dried sage
- 1/4 cup chopped scallions, white parts only
- 2 to 3 garlic cloves, chopped
- Pinch of crushed red pepper flakes
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley
- 6 ounces sweet Masala wine
- One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 cup (about 5 ounces) frozen peas, thawed
- 4 to 6 ounces grated Parmesan cheese, plus extra for garnish
Additional basil, parsley and Parmesan cheese for garnish
*Before starting to make Mama Sauce, caramelize chopped onions by sauteing in butter until soft, translucent and lightly browned.
Melt butter and extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add sage, scallions, garlic, red pepper flakes and salt; cook, stirring occasionally, until slightly softened. Add caramelized onions, basil and parsley and bring to a sizzle over medium heat.
Remove from heat; add Marsala wine. Return to heat; reduce mixture by one-third, stirring occasionally. Add heavy cream; reduce mixture by half, stirring occasionally.
Add crushed tomatoes and peas; bring to a simmer, stirring occasionally. Simmer about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, to develop flavor. Reduce heat to low; stir in Parmesan cheese until melted. Gently fold cooked gnocchi into the sauce to warm. Serve sprinkled with additional basil, parsley and grated cheese.
Joe’s Table for Two radio show airs Saturday mornings from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. on WOND 1400 AM. Website: joestablefortwo.com. Facebook: Joe’s Table for 2. Contact Joe: joestablefortwo@gmail.com.
